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Old 09-08-2006, 09:48 PM
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Changing Head Gaskets... Help. (pics)

I am down to the point of needing this upper motor mount off, but I'm out of ideas on how.... Its a 1990 Grand Prix LE 3.1 60* V6. The piece I'm talking about is the shiny Y looking thing on the left side of the motor.

Any sugestions greatly appreciated thanks.
Eric
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Old 09-08-2006, 10:09 PM
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I did one last year , I believe, (kinda foggy it was last year) that it has a bolt in it at the bottom, and a stud with a nut on it also. It is a real pain in the tail you have to get it all loose then cuss it and throw a couple wrenches and then it will come off. Good luck with it.
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Old 09-08-2006, 10:32 PM
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That bracket goes down and attaches to the side of the motor. You'll have to unbolt the A/C compressor and slide it out of the way in order to get to them bolts.

While you have it torn down, there's a few things you should do now to avoid having to do them in the future.

First, replace the O/ring on the "dummy" shaft. It's the round object protruding from the rear topside of the block (where a distributor would be on a small block Chevy). If it's not leaking now, it will, trust me.

Second, replace the fitting on the end of the heater core tube (located close to the dummy shaft as viewed in the picture). These have a tendency to seep coolant after being twisted during removal.

Third, when reassembling, use a little RTV on the valve cover gaskets in the groove where the intake and head meet. If not, you may have a leak as sometimes the intake gasket doesn't completely fill the gap between the mating surfaces of the head/intake.

Fourth, replace the little coolant hoses (if equipped on that year) that run from the tube mentioned earlier to the throttle body. They have a tendency to get brittle.

Also remember that you'll need to install the intake gaskets BEFORE the pushrods, as the pushrods are "trapped" by the gaskets. There's two different length pushrods, the longer ones are for the exhaust valves. You may want to remove the exhaust crossover pipe from the front manifold only, where the bolts are easier to get to and leave the pipe attached to the rear manifold to be removed with the head as a unit. Lot's easier to deal with after it's on the bench.



After assembly and ready to fire up, the motor may turn over easy like it has no compression. Just let it set for a bit, bump the motor over and let sit again, it should start. I've found that the lifters in these motors don't don't like to take up lash to easily therefore the valves don't fully close. I believe it's due to the "beehive" valve springs that don't have as much seat pressure as they do open pressure. They're designed to exert more pressure than a conical spring when compressed.
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Old 09-09-2006, 02:10 PM
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First head gaskets, now valves? ***?

Now I have the heads off but the new problem is in the #5 Cylinder... the big valve is stuck open and there is a little mark on the valve/piston in the exact same place... any suggestions other then taking a hammer to the entire thing then looking in the paper for a new car?

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 09-09-2006, 04:19 PM
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Sounds like the valve seized in the guide. Not the end of the world. Take them to a machine shop and have them give the heads the once over. How bad is the damage to the piston? Any gouges or marks in the cylinder walls?
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Old 09-09-2006, 10:02 PM
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no the piston is fine, just a little scratch (wierd that someone says this) but thank god for all of the carbon build up on the piston as that was just chunked off.

The valve is bent so I ordered the new intake valve, spring, and keepers. Easy to fix for me but a pain in the *** because I needed the car done about 12 hours ago. Now its looking at the parts coming in on Wednesday at 1:30.

Oh well, life goes on.
Eric
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