[ssimpala]

Good news...glad you got it fixed.

[lmsport]

FWIW, I have seen more than a few problems lately with old muscle cars trying to run gasohol, which is pretty much all thats available in my area. Vapor lock issues in the summer, surging under cruise, etc which can be eliminated by running actual gasoline. I wonder in the pumps have more than 10% alcohol like they claim. Old rubber parts in the fuel system are also a problem with the new gasoline.

[vinniekq2]

you lose power with ethanol and need to richen the mixture in some cases.

[Hacksaw]

UPDATE: I took the 4150 apart and found a nice piece of fuel line trash, I built 6-AN fuel line, wedged in one of the passages of the primary metering block. Also found another great piece of fuel line trash blocking the hole in the secondary pump outlet. Anyway, played with three steps of PV, ended up using 5.5, and dialed the idle mixture screws to 7/8 turn out from seat. Re adjusted the idle transfer slots on primary side, and adjusted idle speed mainly with the secondary idle adjustment. Then started playing with pump arm gap. Adjusted to have a slight gap in the pump arm and pump lever.

Then came timing. To make a long story short, initial timing is a crazy 24 degrees. With heavy springs installed for a slow curve, and used a silver stop bushing. Total timing at 3000 is now 34 degrees. Car starts great, idles great, is very responsive, has almost zero transition into the secondaries on a double pumper, and pulls very hard from 2800 to 6000 rpm. Still a bit concerned with having 24 degrees initial, but there is zero pinging. Anyway, thoughts and comments are welcome. I believe my rear end gear is a 3.08:1 instead of the axle code stating 2.56:1. I'm turning 2500 rpm at 65 with a 27" tire.

[vinniekq2]

excellent news.Gear Ratio Speed Calculator

[Hacksaw]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

excellent news.Gear Ratio Speed Calculator

Any idea why this engine likes so much initial timing?

[vinniekq2]

maybe the match of your cam and compression ratio.
I use just under 20 degrees at idle,so you are similar to mine?

[cdminter59]

With some of the aftermarket camshafts it will take alot of initial timing. There is nothing wrong with it. Check the total timing at 3500 rpms and above to make sure all the mechanical advance is in at 3000 rpms. The silver bushing allows 25 degrees advance. Check out this website for 10* and 14* advance limiter bushings it sounds like you will need them. Tuning MSD Distributors. Usually it takes one blue spring and one light silver spring to get the advance all in by 3000 rpms. Use a vacuum guage to tune your carburetor. Adjust the idle mixture screws out to get the highest vacuum reading.

[Hacksaw]

I will check out the bushings. Thanks. I drove the car this morning and it ran like crap again. A cold front did move in last night and it's around 27 degrees. Don't know if that made the car run bad or not. Here we go again!!!

[cdminter59]

BTW what is this motor in? When you say a cold front came in is it raining and damp where the vehicle is?

[Hacksaw]

Originally Posted by cdminter59

BTW what is this motor in? When you say a cold front came in is it raining and damp where the vehicle is?

It's just cold dry air no moisture what so ever. The engine is in a 70 Chevelle

[cdminter59]

It sounds you are having a problem with module in the distributor. You might want to have it checked. I think Auto Zone checks them. This would be the first thing I would replace.

[Hacksaw]

Originally Posted by cdminter59

It sounds you are having a problem with module in the distributor. You might want to have it checked. I think Auto Zone checks them. This would be the first thing I would replace.

I'm using a MSD Pro Billet. I have changed out two complete Pro Billets with same results

[Hacksaw]

I did notice that the car ran better on my way home. It ha warmed up to the mid 40s today. Could I be facing a problem I have read about the Edelbrock performer rpm air gap manifold and cold weather?

[cdminter59]

That could be a possibility. They do take a long time to warm up. You don't have a spare Performer RPM you could try do you? Maybe a buddy might have one on the shelf? Have you checked your coil lately? Here is how to check it with an ohm meter. http://www.international-auto.com/fi...ition-coil.cfm