chasing pinholes. it worked...and didnt - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2010, 11:26 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
chasing pinholes. it worked...and didnt

I have successfully filled in around 200 small pin holes on the roof rail of my 69 dart. I have only done the drivers side so far. The problem im having is in the grinding of the fill welds. They are so close together that when i grind them down they are paper thin and stacking on top of each other. This will invite rust and i will not be able to remove that rust. I could grind down the fill better but then i would be getting into the original metal. There are no patch panels for dart roof rails and the vinyl top killed it. The roof skin is off of the car and is completely rust free. These pin holes have not killed the structure too much. it still feels strong.

I have these pin holes just over the driver and passenger window at least 1.5 feet along the roof rail, and at the bottom of the sail panel seam on both sides.


Is there another way to deal with pin holes? I want this to last, that is why i wanted to fill it in with metaL. If it was on the floor board it wouldnt matter but this is on the roof rail and expensive primer and paint along with a vinyl top are going back on it. I dont want bubbles under the new paint

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 05:19 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
Can you post a few pictures?

I think there are a number of us on here, that have been in same situation and may be able to offer a few different ideas.

Really need to see some good pictures to start offering advice.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 01:21 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The problem is keeping the rust out of the ground down area where i fill welded the back side......and the front side. I will be epoxy primering it to seal the metal from moisture except in the area where i will be welding the roof on

Last edited by glhx; 10-27-2010 at 01:47 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 01:23 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
of the donor roof and the original that is still on the car......that roof skin is now off of the structure so all the rust is gone
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 144.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	84.8 KB
ID:	49272   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 164.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	153.4 KB
ID:	49273  

Last edited by glhx; 10-27-2010 at 01:48 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 01:27 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
here is the outside of the welded roof rail. I have not welded on this side as it is the side that will show on the car. I have been welding on the inside that wont be shown, but i still want no rust in there. once the roof is on i wont be able to get to it to repair it if it rusts.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 171.jpg
Views:	128
Size:	88.7 KB
ID:	49274   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 184.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	58.1 KB
ID:	49295  

Last edited by glhx; 10-27-2010 at 01:44 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 01:33 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
here is the inside where all the welding was done. most of the pin holes are filled. When ground down they mushroom and flatten the welded metal. i dont trust this to not re-rust. it seems porous and imperfect. if i put any chemical in there it will be hard to get it out. I dont have a sand blaster. It looks to me to be strong and feels strong.I used setting c on the welder with wire speed 3.
It took some time to figure out how to weld this thin metal. i started with low heat but it didnt work. The other roof rail if fill welded wont be this messy and doesnt have as many holes. i created and had to fill more holes due to not knowing what i was doing. Once i figured it out they started to fill and not creat new holes. must have 10 hours in fill welding.


how can i make sure this doesnt re-rust
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 174.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	85.6 KB
ID:	49278   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 175.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	70.5 KB
ID:	49279   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 176.jpg
Views:	91
Size:	74.8 KB
ID:	49280  

Last edited by glhx; 10-27-2010 at 01:55 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 01:37 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
here is the other side. there is no caked rust in those pin holes. this side has not been touched yet. Can i do anything different for this side than i did on the otheror is the way im repairing it ok.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 177.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	74.6 KB
ID:	49286   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 178.jpg
Views:	66
Size:	72.6 KB
ID:	49287   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 179.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	61.3 KB
ID:	49288   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 180.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	60.4 KB
ID:	49289   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 181.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	56.3 KB
ID:	49290  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 01:42 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
here is the sail panel. i might be able to make a piece to weld in there. or i can fill weld there too. I just need to figure out a way to seal up where i welded so it doesnt re rust in the imperfect areas. its probably rusting right now..............With the roof rail The shape would take making complex metal work that i dont have the skill to do yet. if any one has roof rails for sail i would just weld them in and patch it. the rest of the roof is ok
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 182.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	60.8 KB
ID:	49293   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 183.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	55.7 KB
ID:	49294  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 02:03 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I also wish i could figure out a way to keep this roof from re rusting surface rust. as you can see in the pictures it already has.Ive heard of picklex 20 and all the other acid based rust removers working well............but ive heard people dont like to use them, because they make epoxy primer not stick. Is there any way to use picklex 20 for now and then remove it when im ready to primer. any ideas. I used naval jelly and it removed all the rust. 2 days it was back and ill have to apply it over again. i used thinner to remove it. i know epoxy primer doesnt like thinner coated metal. so u hit it with 80 grit in the past and it stuck just fine. can i do this with picklex 20
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 07:04 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 242
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Never done any of this before I'm new at
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2010, 05:34 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
Man, I'm out of my league here!!!

Although it looks like an easy weld on with new metal, from what I see.

Hopefully one of the bodymen pros on here, will help you out.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.