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Old 09-25-2006, 12:51 PM
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chassis paint

I have sand-blasted the frame and rear end of my car. I am looking for suggestions of what paint and primmer to use. I was thinking about using epoxy primmer and black enamel paint. I know about chassis saver paint and POR 15-13? But the metal is very clean and a spray finish would look great.
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:02 PM
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You'll get some real Pro's anwering this, but I'll put in my .02 (just a newby)-I would use the Epxoy Primer, and a regular BC/CC if the frame is to be seen (highboy). If not, I think your Enamel (w/a hardener) would certainly work-you have blasted it, so I would NOT use POR-15-
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:59 PM
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I use hammertone.You can get it in quarts and spray cans.You can get it at Lowes.I think it says Rustoleum Hammered on the cans.I just call it hammertone.Works better than POR-15 in my opinion.
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:37 PM
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Save the Rustoleum for your yard funriture that you can easilly re-do in a year or 2, when you get back from a ride in your Rod. Spray it with a good epoxy primer and then finish it with BC/CC if you want a good finish. If you just want it black, and it isn't in direct sunlight, you could just use black epoxy primer.

Aaron
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Old 09-25-2006, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
Save the Rustoleum for your yard funriture that you can easilly re-do in a year or 2, when you get back from a ride in your Rod. Spray it with a good epoxy primer and then finish it with BC/CC if you want a good finish. If you just want it black, and it isn't in direct sunlight, you could just use black epoxy primer.

Aaron
For your info,I put it on my ride about 10 years ago and it is still as good as when I put it on.There isn't anything that can hurt this stuff.I used it because I live on the damn beach and was wanting something to make it not rust.Works better than POR-15,I know I've tried it.Also,the hammertone won't scratch.It'll barely scratch if you put a DA on it.You can use BC/CC but it will still scratch like hell.
I used it on the floors,top and underside,fuel tank,valve cover and the inside of my wheels.The only thing is,if you use it,you better be wearing gloves.**** won't come off.Also if you make a mistake,you better try to clean it up FAST!!!You can't sand it off or sand blast it off.
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:18 PM
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Jim... I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings. I didn't realize that you got a can of defective product. As a word of warning, I don't recommend house paint on a car either.
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:18 PM
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I've gotta back the advice about staying with a higher quality product. It is my opinion that a 2K paint, no matter what brand you want to use, will be Superior to anything from a spray-can. I congratulate the Gentleman with the hammer-tone for taking excellent care of his car for 10 years.

But, I would be worried about a detail-shop or some-one putting a degreaser or other harsh cleaner to the drive-train.

No offense intended what-so-ever.

I've been a pro painter since the late 80's and do restoration work for a living. The best way to go is powder-coating ($$$). If I spend the time to blast a drive-train, it's getting epoxy and at the least a shell of single-stage black urethane, but probably black base and urethane clear. There are semi-gloss or matt clears and single-stages available if thats what you're after as well.

Last edited by colormecrazy; 09-26-2006 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:40 PM
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Epoxy primer and BC/CC if the frame is to be seen, nothing is more durable. Some think powder coat is more durable, it isn't.

Leave the barbecue paint for the barbecue pit.

Vince
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:35 PM
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I have to with powdercoating as first on the list, epoxy and a urethane SS black as second IF you want black. If you want the same color as the car, shoot the exact same paint as you do the car be it SS or BC/CC.

If you are going to do it yourself remember that the epoxy is sprayed on and you spray the SS (or bc/cc for that matter) right over it without sanding. It is a killer deal and SUPER durable.

I agree that powdercoating MAY not be as durable under some conditions but it is sooooooo much easier. I have a place near me that will do that frame for about $500. They sandblast it, powdercoat it and you stick it back on your truck or trailer to come home with it totally dry and ready to work on. You just can't beat that. The primer and paint materials is going to be half that right off the bat no matter what paint you use. I will let someone else do all the work for the $250.

Brian
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Old 09-26-2006, 12:23 AM
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This ones epoxy.

Rob

There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

Chassis, Body Jig, Trunk Pan Pics.
http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

Paint booth, Ventilation, etc.
http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html
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Old 09-26-2006, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
Jim... I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings. I didn't realize that you got a can of defective product. As a word of warning, I don't recommend house paint on a car either.
Didn't hurt my feelings,but I don't feel you should talk negativly about a product that aparantly you have never used.Believe me I value your opinions,your one of the most knowledgeable people on here.
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
I have to with powdercoating as first on t

I agree that powdercoating MAY not be as durable under some conditions but it is sooooooo much easier. I have a place near me that will do that frame for about $500. They sandblast it, powdercoat it and you stick it back on your truck or trailer to come home with it totally dry and ready to work on. You just can't beat that. The primer and paint materials is going to be half that right off the bat no matter what paint you use. I will let someone else do all the work for the $250.

Brian
My TCI frame arrived with a skim coat of rust, as was to be expected after a 10 day cross country trip via some truck. I spent two days using rotary wire brushes, 3M rotary bristle paint strippers and hand sanding this brand new frame to be able to prime and paint - which was another 2 days of work. The cost was in the neighborhood of $200. This was done firstly just so I could see how gloss black looked with the chrome, stainless and polished aluminum that I am using plus protection from more rust. It got scratched and dinged and needed to be redone. I priced out powdercoating - $400 plus about $80 later for several additional brackets and braces. That price included media blasting off my Variprime(I don't use that stuff anymore), sealer and several coats of Centari with hardener. CHEAP !!!! It looks great, and has, so far, repelled dropped wrenches, exhaust pieces, my big feet and brake fluid . Is it bullet proof? As far as I'm concerned, it is !!!!

Dave
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:24 AM
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The brush on or roll on stuff may be alright in a perfect world. The problem is that I have not seen one of those products that hold up to the chemicals on an automobile. Fuel, or brake fluid, will usually eat that stuff up. At the least, it will deteriorate it, so there are problems later. In a "perfect world", that would not be a problem, as obviously they would never come close to the paint. Unfortunately, not many of us live there.

The epoxy base will protect the frame from most all chemicals, except paint remover. Even if it goes past the paint top coat, which most won't, it won't get thru to the frame, and cause corrosion.

Aaron
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:43 AM
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paint

lots of good advice here! i am not sure what SS means? i under stand BC/CC.
Powder coating is a great idea, but i have now spent to much time and money to turn back. this is my first restoration project and i am learning a ton of new things. i have a new set of HVLP guns to spray the epoxy primer, and paint. i am thinking 1 quart primer and 1 quart paint. this should run about $100, and it should be enough to paint the frame, gas tank,control arms,sway bar, and all steering linkages. keeping in mind that all pieces will be cleaned and hanging to be painted at the same time.but the top coat is my concern. is there something wrong with enamel with hardener. i think BC/CC is to much money and fancy for what i am doing. this car is going to be a driver and i don't plan on entering it in any car shows. so after a few years if the paint chips...rattle can of rustolems for touch-up would be a great idea.
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Old 09-26-2006, 12:18 PM
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Nothing wrong at all.

SS = Single Stage which is basically what your wanting. an enamel with hardener.

Everyone has "their" opinion as to what "they" want so what's "best" will be a matter of opinion. And,I'm still not sold on powder coating either.
I "prefer" epoxy first and then depending on "what" the project calls for will go either BC/CC or SS or even good old Dupont Chasie Black.

Most "failures" come from improper prep or application and most ANY of these methods discussed will work fine as long as it's over CLEAN metal and APPLIED properly.
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