Cheap 1k Sealer Primer
 

I know, I know, I know that I shouldn't go cheap when it comes to stuff like this but Im painting my 2000 Acura TL Daily Driver. I got into an accident and crashed the front end. I took it to a shop and get it straightened and High quality OEM like parts replaced (Hood, bumper guard) I went to my local paint store and purchased the Base Coat ($260 gallon) , cheap unknown brand clear ($100 gallon) and I asked for Urethane Sealer/Primer. He game me what I later realized is Transtar 1k Speed Sealer.. As he layed the items on the counter a guy from a local motorcyle paint shop says ' Thats some pretty good stuff' I meantioned that I usually order my with a reputable name brand online, or SPI (sorry John at House of Klear). It gave me a bit more confidence knowing that a shop actually uses it and is happy with it. I was in a rush and when I got home I realized its a 1k acrylic sealer ... WTF!
OK this is for a daily driver 13 year old car.. I just need this car to get me to and from work for the next year or so but would like it to maintain a good resale value.. What is the risk of using this 'cheap' primer? how does it harder/cure without being a 2k? Anyone used or heard of this product before.. I know, I know.. I should of spend a lil more and got SPI Urethane 2k Primer and SPI Universal clear but Ill save that for my other classic car projects

By the way my first complete paint job using SPI Primer, HOK base, and SPI Universal Clear... and a bunch of help from awesome guys here sharing the knowledge... Thank You DeadBodyMan, BarryK, Tech69, especially MartinSR than even gives me good all around advise here on my 40 Desoto Coupe project....

I wouldnt use any sealer at all and just return that stuff ,just sand with 400 the OEM finish,thats pretty good stuff ,its the aftermarket parts that have the crap primer on them......Why did you get a gallon of base ,are you painting the whole car??? it would only take 2 qts ,tops ,to paint whole nose and blend doors \ 2 qts of clear

The price of the quart was amost the same. I am gonna fix some small dents around the whole car and will seal and paint the entire car. The parts are not OEM but aftermarket CAPA certified.
Overall is 1k acrylic primer decent stuff to use as sealer?

As Mike said (Deadbodyman) said...why seal it...just prep the primer on your repair area with fine paper, (even a bit finer on your blend area especially if it's a metallic color), paint and clear. If your material is good, (SPI catalysed Epoxy) and it's prepped properly...you don't need sealer of any kind.

Ray

Using an epoxy or urethane primer and a 1K sealer is kinda like having a metal chain with one link made from a nylon tie. :rolleyes:

Brian

I was planning on shooting a couple light coats of the 1k Sealer over the scuffed replacement parts (primered black?) before shooting the silver metallic base, then the clear.. Can the 1k Sealer cause any issues used in this manner?

To be on the safe side....I wouldn't use 1K anything...like Brian said, it's a weak link in the chain....I liken it to making a ham sandwhich with rotten meat. Your metal is a solid piece, your clear is a catalyzed top coat and what have you got in the middle???? If it's worth doing...it's worth doing with materials that work well together and the cost difference between a 2K Epoxy and your 1K sealer is minimal....use a good 2K sandable Epoxy, prep it and paint it and you will have a better result and you know in your own mind that it's done properly...if you where sure about the 1K sealer, I don't think you would have started the thread, so if you have doubts (and your doubts are justified) use a catalyzed primer.

Ray

I've used a 1-k sealer on used cars with a single stage color coat. But when I can no longer see the tail-lights it no longer has any warrentee. I would return it and as already said use SPI epoxy as your sealer. You could get one QT thin it and have some left over for another job.

Thank You.. I think I will do that.

thats the ticket,,,, and better yet use that qt as the primer to use over the dents you fix and two good coats over that cheap capa crap on those aftermarket parts ,even better still is to sand that black primerlike substance completely off and use the SPI as a proper substrate to gar un tee a great long lasting job ..I've seen paint peeling off that crap in a few months,especially that bumper cover ,sand it real good and spray two good coats of SPI epoxy .
..You know....I hate to say it but for a proper looking job the bumper cover should be painted off the car and the other body parts should be at least cut in then put on the car and painted...
OK ,so you wanta know why I hate that cheap CRAPA certified primer?well ask anybody what happens when you install those parts on a car and dont paint them....In 6 months they'll be coverd in surface rust...I've had SPI epoxy on a car for six years without a problem..
Its your car and your time when you ask us what you should do we'll tell straight what should be done for a good job but the choise is always yours

I wouldn't use 1K as mentioned already. I did have good luck with Finish 1 sealer, it's fairly inexpensive.