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Others may disagree with me on this, but here is my two cents worth if you are really wanting a DIY paint job at the absolute lowest possible cost.
If you want the lowest cost do-it-yourself paint job possible, and are not too picky about the color, there are some relative bargains to be had in alkyd enamels marketed for the agricultural tractor and implement industry. You'll be limited to colors like John Deere yellow, Case Red, Ford blue, etc. A low gloss black that has received a lot of press on these pages is John Deere Blitz Black. These can be found at various farm supply stores. Since you're in Michigan, I would think there might be something nearby you. Do you have Tractor Supply Company stores locally, or Orschelin's? Both of these carry a decent line of alkyd enamels, or you can get similar type tractor refinish enamels at your local ag or lawn and garden dealer (Deere, New Holland, Case, etc.) Many of these will also have available an optional isocyanate hardner, which would be advisable to use. Expect to pay less for a gallon of alkyd topcoat plus hardner than you would have to pay for a quart of low-end auto refinish paint. You won't be able to colorsand or buff out this type of enamel, and you will give up both exterior gloss retention and scratch resistance compared to automotive acrylics, but these finishes can do a decent job as evidenced by their successful use by tractor dealers for refinish purposes. They can be sprayed, as directed on the label instructions. See the previous discussions on J.D. blitz black, which is representative of this type of material, for further information. |
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JONES BLAIR... good stuff for the price and is fairly easy to shoot and if you do it right you can have a pretty nice finish, we use it at work on halliburton feild camp equipment.. you can find it just about anywhere and most likely and any ind. painting buisness |
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You didn't say what prep work has been done, or even what the car is. There is a big difference in the cost of paint, depending on brands, type, and color.
If the car is actually ready to paint, as in, the body repairs have been completed, and it is in good primer, it can be done at a realively low cost, if done in black or white. If you go with one of the cheaper brands, you might save some money, and wish later that you didn't. You can get a gallon of SPI base coat in black or white for less than $100, and the reducer for about $30. The clear is about $190 or so for what works out to 2 gallons, with the activator, I think. Depending on the size of the car, you could get the clear in quarts, and save some there, by not getting as much. If you wanted to go with a single stage, you could get by for less, but it would not be as durable. With single stage, you will need the paint and activator. You should be able to do it for about $200 in either black or white. If you want other colors, it would obviously cost more. If it is your first paint job, consider the possibility of mistakes. If you buy paint mixed in quarts, make sure that they will ba able to match it, if you need more. Aaron |
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Vince |
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There is no doubt that you can sink alot of money in a paint job. A car that I painted Purple recently, the base was almost $400(Sherwin Williams). A car that I painted red, the base would have been close to $400 (Dupont) for a gallon. A truck I painted Viper Red, the base was less than $200 (SPI) for a gallon. These are all quality paints.
Of course, you do have to figure in the additional cost for clears, primers, reducers, and such. It will add up quickly. With some clears in the $200+ range, not including activators, it can get real pricey. Some of the primers seem to be priced like they think they are basecoats too. If you need to do all of the bodywork and priming, then the $500 range is a little low, if you want a color other than Black or White, and any real quality. Aaron |
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The single stage paints are still a good alternative.
Use a urethane with hardener and it's fairly durable. http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Kirk...urethanes.html |
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If dirt cheap is what you are looking for then the implement enamels at Tractor Supply that Powderbill mentioned may not be a bad choice, it works better than most people think. I have used this stuff on tractors, utility trailers and various farm equipment I have built along with one Bronco II (farm use) that a fellow wanted painted in tractor orange, that Bronco turned out really nice which surprised me and really pleased him
I am not saying this paint is a substitute for good automotive paint but if what you are looking for is a REALLY low cost paint job that will look decent and hold up better than one might expect then this may be what you need, just be sure and use the hardener.
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if ya don't mind case red, JD Green or yellow, or even barbaque black, walmart sells rustoleum specialty paints in those colors, there oil based enamels and do come out gloss except the barbacue paint. there about $7 a quart, you might need 5 quarts to paint a car. you could brush it, roll it or spray it with some mineral spirits thinner.
paint for my car is going to be $125 per gallon, it's a single stage Accrylic enamel from Martin Senour. a grape purple color. |
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Keep in mind that if you paint that car with one of those cheap paints, and want it to look good later, you will need to strip that crap off, before you can repaint it. Is it really worth it to go thru the trouble to prepare and paint a car, when you are going to spray cheap paint on it? I sure wouldn't expect a whole lot out of a paint that sells for $50 for a kit.
Remember, you get what you pay for. Aaron |
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