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08-26-2009, 06:49 PM
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Cheapo BBC 505 tall deck grunt motor
I'm always interested in researching street/strip combinations that are easy on the budget. This is a combo based on the tall deck 427T block. The block deck height of this block is 10.200", 0.400" taller than a regular production 396/427/454 block. The total combined stack measurement of parts I've used here is 10.185", leaving 0.015" nominal piston deck height on a virgin block. I'd check the decks for being square with the centerline of the main bearing bore and if they were, I might leave them alone and use a gasket such as this for a squish of 0.056". You can put this same motor together using a standard production 427 or 454 block, you just use 6.135" rods instead of the 6.535" rods used in this build and forget about the spacer plates.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1071/ Scat cast steel 4.250" crank.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-945420/ Eagle 6.535" rods.... http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/CRS65353D/10002/-1 TRW H112CP+.100 hypereutectic pistons... http://www.flatlanderracing.com/ Read across the chart for effective static compression ratios with different chamber volumes.... This makes a 505 in a tall deck block for cheap. Continuing with relatively cheap.... Racing Head Service cast iron heads, 119cc chambers for 10.2:1 static compression ratio.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-11301-02/ Published head flow factored by 0.90... .100 68 56 .200 149 106 .300 221 144 .400 278 176 .500 306 206 .600 324 223 .700 338 239 Use these Moroso rectangular port spacer plates between heads and intake manifold, using Edelbrock #7202 intake gaskets on each side of the plates.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-65090/ Edelbrock RPM intake for rectangular ports... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7163/ Or this RPM Air Gap for rectangular ports.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7562/ Or this Weiand Stealth for rectangular ports.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-8018/ The following DynoSim pulls were made with large-tube, equal-length headers through mufflers and an 850 carb.... More than one professional engine builder has advised that big block Chevies eat flat tappet camshafts, so be aware. I have composed three different pulls, with the only changes being the cam. One hydraulic flat tappet, one hydraulic retro-fit roller tappet and one solid flat tappet combination. I didn't build these to be race motors, but rather low-buck street/strip grunt motor combinations that nose over at 5500. I went through about half a dozen cams on each combination and am publishing the best results here. I'll run the retro-hydraulic roller motor first. I used 1.8 rockers with it for a new lift of .552"/.572"... http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=445&sb=0 RPM HP TQ 2000 193 508 2500 245 515 3000 311 544 3500 386 579 4000 455 600 4500 508 593 5000 546 573 5500 555 530 6000 490 429 Peak volumetric efficiency 97.6% @5000 Peak BMEP 178.2 @4000 This combo uses a hydraulic flat tappet cam with stock 1.7 rockers... http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=397&sb=0 NOTE: when Comp says "9.5 compression", they don't mean that it specifically needs 9.5 exactly, they mean that it needs AT LEAST 9.5 and could use more. RPM HP TQ 2000 198 520 2500 251 526 3000 316 554 3500 391 587 4000 460 604 4500 514 600 5000 555 583 5500 558 533 6000 517 453 Peak volumetric efficiency 98.7% @5000 Peak BMEP 180.4 @4000 Now here's one for those of you who don't mind checking valve lash maybe twice a year, although you could probably stretch it to yearly with the technology used today. Back in the day, this used to be a frequent chore, but not so much today. See, the thing is that once you get the lash set properly with the motor hot, you allow it to cool and check where the lash is. Then you can set it cold from then on and encounter no muss or fuss. http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=482&sb=0 Used stock 1.7 rockers.... RPM HP TQ 2000 200 526 2500 255 535 3000 323 566 3500 403 604 4000 478 628 4500 540 630 5000 584 613 5500 600 570 6000 567 496 Peak volumetric efficiency 94.4% @5000 Peak BMEP 188.0 @4500 Last edited by techinspector1; 08-27-2009 at 05:15 AM. 
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08-26-2009, 07:04 PM
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Even so I don`t do big blocks I like this line up. 600 lbs of torque got my attention fast.
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08-26-2009, 07:22 PM
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Yeah, I've never screwed one of these together, so don't know if I've missed anything or not. But the math works out and the parts are available, so.....why not.
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08-26-2009, 08:03 PM
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08-26-2009, 08:27 PM
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That system apparently uses the same high-rise, dual-plane intake manifold that I used on the software pulls, but provides another 150 CFM over the 850 carb I used. Plugging 1000 into the program, I find another 1 or 2 hp and ft/lbs at 2000 and an additional 6 hp at 5500 and 6 ft/lbs at 4000.
It's pretty pricey, but if you see advantages over carburetion, go for it.
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08-27-2009, 03:39 AM
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Thanks Tech.
I don't see anything "better', just a matter of preference. I installed a TPI on my 76 p/u and I just love the injection now.
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08-27-2009, 05:07 AM
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Tech,that looks like an awesome build up,but it appears that your choice of rods arent real cheap.The price shown in your link is for 1 rod,so that puts the price up a bit,almost $ 1600.00 for a set of rods !! Heres a link from Lunati;
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=192&gid=172 But cheaper ones are available,such as these; http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/CRS65353D/10002/-1 Got to love that torque curve,over 500 ft/lbs from 2000-5500 rpm.Imagine that in a lightweight car with this tranny; http://www.tciauto.com/products/6x/ You'd have a lot of fun !!!  Guy
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08-27-2009, 05:12 AM
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Thanks for the heads-up Guy. I should have known that 200 bucks for a set of 6.535" rods was too good to be true.
 I have edited the post to include the rods you linked. Looked at the trans you linked....WOW....paddle shift too. I've driven a paddle shift and it is FUUUUUUUNNNNN.
Last edited by techinspector1; 08-27-2009 at 05:20 AM.
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08-27-2009, 05:18 AM
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No problem.But now I'm waiting for you to build one of these tq monsters nd put it on an engine dyno and see what you get for #'s,then send it to me and I will do a tire test for you LOL
 Guy
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08-27-2009, 05:21 AM
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I'll get right on that Guy.
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08-27-2009, 05:33 AM
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Guy, your post got me to looking for alternative low-buck rods. I, of course, don't know anything about them, but here is a set of 8 for $270. This engine build is limited to 5500 by cam choice, so they might work ok.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-Bea...Q5fAccessories
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08-27-2009, 06:04 AM
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They look like nice rods,the low price gotta make you wonder though !! But,who knows,they might be just as good as the Eagle ones.
Guy
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03-29-2010, 02:05 PM
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Posting fresher link to pistons....
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/trwchevyspecial.html
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03-29-2010, 02:30 PM
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i think these pistons would go well too, if my math is right they would give about 10.2: 1 compression with a 119 cc head, somebody let me know if im wrong, but that would be for a 482.
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03-29-2010, 02:47 PM
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No, it's a 505 with +0.100" pistons. (.7854 x 4.350 x 4.350 x 4.250 x 8 = 505).
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