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Old 08-17-2005, 11:49 AM
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check my wiring diagram

this is the electrical wiring diagram for a 1 wire alt, with a HEI. the only thing i forgot to put is the tach going to the HEI. does everything look OK

wiring diagram

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Old 08-17-2005, 03:16 PM
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fuse links

Doc here,

You forgot 3 fuse links at the battery.

And the wire For the Hot AT All Times Buss in the car..(headlights, horn, brake lights, and the like)

Doc
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Last edited by docvette; 08-17-2005 at 03:18 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:46 AM
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i should have been more specific. i just wanted to get the engine fired up. do i still need those things, if so, what amps for the fuses?
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:37 AM
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Yea that would make a difference if this is not your permanent wiring !!

Never hurts to fuse but if you are just trying to get the motor started that will be fine.

Rich
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Old 08-18-2005, 10:42 AM
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thanx rrmccabe, so if i fire this thing up and something blows up, your in trouble J/K
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:06 AM
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Its more likely to burn
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Old 08-18-2005, 02:06 PM
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here is a more descriptive drawing, is this still OK
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Last edited by 53LEDSLED; 08-18-2005 at 02:07 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-18-2005, 02:40 PM
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Starting System

Doc here,

Should be good for a test fire..

Starter should work fine, and you should place a voltmeter across the battery and look for a stable 14.4 volts at Idle..for proper operation.

When ready, For The links , just go to the autoparts store and give them the make/model/year, options they'll hook ya up.

Be advised, Thats only 50% of your system...Ground is just a necessary..

It should be:

Main Ground at or near your starter, on the block.

From that bolt will extend another Cable with 3/8 ring terminals on both ends to the frame, and two ten gauge wires , one to the firewall, one to the alternator ground lug or mount bolt.

Get some ground braid, run those between the fender/wells and frame, doors and door posts, hood and body, trunk and body.

Burnish or Grind off all paint, from all ground points, use a proper star washer, and be sure all bolts/screws are tight and of similar metallic make up..(don't use aluminum on sheet-metal/to copper bonding..etc)

This will be for your permanent grounds hook up, and if done as above, will last you for many trouble-free years.

Doc
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Old 08-18-2005, 02:50 PM
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one last question: on the starter, their is one big bolt that looks like it should take a cable, is that for a ground
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Old 08-18-2005, 02:51 PM
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Wiring

Only a fool would even think about hooking up the battery with all unfused circuits. It will take you an hour or so to cut some fuses/ links into the wiring where it leaves the battery.
How long will it take to rebuild your car after the electrical fire

Don't chance it. Fuse everything before you connect the battery. You may be fine until that header burns through the insulation on the hot feed to the starter and the whole car burns up.

Don't take the chance. If you do it right you can use the fused circuits for your permanent wiring also
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Old 08-18-2005, 03:19 PM
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53LEDSLED,

The big bolt on the solenoid is NOT the ground. Its the main battery cable that powers the starter.

Regarding T-buckets comments, I dont agree with the need. If you are going to just use it to run your motor I would not waste time with fuses. Besides there are hundreds of thousands of cars out there that have no fuse protection in the those circuits at all. Modern cars might have fusible links for that, but before that they had nothing.

I wont not worry about it.

Glad Doc mentioned the ground side. A motor sitting in motor mounts might give you fits. Do everything he mentioned to tie the battery, frame and motor together.

Rich
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Old 08-18-2005, 03:24 PM
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im talking about the big bolt on the actual motor itself, not the coil (at least i think its a coil?)
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Old 08-18-2005, 03:28 PM
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Solenoid?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 53LEDSLED
one last question: on the starter, their is one big bolt that looks like it should take a cable, is that for a ground

Doc here,

Do you mean on the solenoid??

If so the answer is definitely NO,

That is where the Main positive Cable and vehicle power support wire with links will hook up...

The Solenoid should be, big bolt top center, (12 O'clock) and two terminals left (30 degrees) and right (90 degrees) center, below that, for start "S" and secondary Ignition (If used) "I" Then a short stub (6 O'clock) on the bottom that goes into the starter (nothing external hooks here)

Your Main grounding system will attach to the Block, any question about it , meter it on an R x 1 Scale on an Ohm meter to battery ground, should be 000 , not infinite.

=========

T bucket..

I also do not advocate running unfused circuits...Don't get me wrong...

While I agree with you about unlinked circuits, For what he is trying to attempt, He should be fine as long as the circuit is as advertised, and he runs the car NO longer than it takes to hear it fire, and drop a volt meter across the battery.

less than a minute or so..He should be prepared FIRST to DISCONNECT the battery cable At a seconds notice, AND have a fire extinguisher right there..(simulating a link)

Given that, the Headers shouldn't even get hot..and anyways, If the MAIN battery cable melted to it..It would be no different ..It Is not Fused or linked ..At least not the cable going from the Battery to the solenoid..just a #4 gauge or better wire direct..

So If he is aware..and has verified his work, while not the safest thing to do agreed..It should be OK for a 1 minute test..If you had massive shorts, your not going to be able to put the cables on the battery anyway..not without BIG sparks...Remember..a fuse link takes a minute or more to burn out anyways..

Doc
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Old 08-18-2005, 03:32 PM
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im a little confused, the main bolt on the solenoid is for 12V and the main bolt on the actual motor itself is for ground?
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Old 08-18-2005, 03:48 PM
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No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Doc here,

The big main bolt on the TOP of the solenoid (12 O'clock) is for the POSITIVE battery Cable and Vehicle support system and links..

The BIG terminal on the BOTTOM of the Solenoid (6 O'clock) is for the Starter motor stub ONLY..NO EXTERNAL wires hook here...

The Nomenclature is:

The Solenoid receives power to the "S" terminal from the Key, energizes the Plunger Coil and forces the starter drive forward (or in this case to the rear of the car)

At the same time that that plunger activates, it closes a set of internal contacts that transfer power from the top bolt to the bottom bolt, that provides power to the starter motor only..

At the same time there are a second set of contacts that also close to provide a source of interruptible power for secondary Ignition while in the crank mode "I" terminal..

That's it..

Any Confusion..just GROUND the ground cable to the Block At or very near the starter..you'll be fine.

Doc
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