Checking for pinholes in U-Weld headers - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> General Rodding Tech
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 02:03 PM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Checking for pinholes in U-Weld headers

Anybody ever come up with an simple but effective method of checking for welding pinholes in U-Weld header kits?

    Advertisement
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 02:25 PM
BMM BMM is offline
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Not there
Posts: 605
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just an idea, dont know how cost effective or efficient it may be....

Cover all holes so they are watertight. Maybe even just duct tape would work. Submerge under water, in a bathtub or the like?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 02:42 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,376
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 56 Times in 52 Posts
water under preassure. plug all exhaust port holes, little water in them, put a peice of rubber in the collector, cut hole in it, stick blow gun in. leaks will be found
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 06:46 PM
kruzr's Avatar
street rods forever
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Windsor
Age: 69
Posts: 324
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Try this....make a piece for end of collector,drill a hole in plate to accept a tubeless valve stem, or weld a piece of pipe to the plate so you can attach your air hose to it with your fittings.(depends how much faith you have in your welds)bolt it to collector with rubber gasket.If you have good flat table to clamp header in several places with rubber gasket again. You wont need a lot of air pressure(4/5 pounds steady )in header,then do a soap test.
A little dishsoap in water and paint the soap on your welds.If it leaks you have no problem to find them.

Last edited by KRUZR; 11-06-2007 at 07:32 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 07:37 PM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
This is sorta responding to ALL of you who made suggestions. Bascially I think everybody is saying that the headers need to be sealed off at both ends (head flanges and pipe tips or collector flange). As best I understand KRUZR's plan (or at least how I see it) one could clamp a piece of flat stock (tall enough and wide enough to cover the head flange end of the headers) and clamp it tightly to the flange with a rubber or cork gasket in between.

On the other end, if you have individual header tubes, you could find a simple cork which will fit tightly into each header tube. Drill out the center of the cork just enough to fit the end of your air nozzle from your compressor. Soap up the weld joints for that particular tube and hit the button on your air nozzle to get a couple lbs of pressure in that particular tube. If you have holes, they will bubble up. If no holes, move on to the next tube to test.

If you have a collector and flange on the other end rather than individual tubes, you would need to make a plate which could be bolted to the flange to seal it off (again with an appropriate gasket material). Drill a hole in middle of that sealing plate to insert your air nozzle...and you are in business.

Does that sound about right?

For those of you who have done this in the past, I'm sure this question sounded pretty silly. But for the life of me I couldn't figure out a way to do this until I read through all of your suggestions.
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 07:52 PM
kruzr's Avatar
street rods forever
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Windsor
Age: 69
Posts: 324
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not silly at all cboy, good question to ask .
I wasnt sure if you had collector or not at the end.
If you want to do each pipe separate,I've seen like little balloons the plumbers use in checking for leaks,cant think of proper name right now.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2007, 11:10 PM
dinger's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: 36 Ford painting
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Visalia, Ca.
Age: 61
Posts: 2,711
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 102
Thanked 110 Times in 76 Posts
Would magnafluxing work? Dan
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2007, 02:37 PM
Beenaway2long's Avatar
or Jeff, or Doc, or...
 

Last journal entry: Results of the Camaro
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Syracuse, NY-well, just North
Age: 51
Posts: 988
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Dewey-

Find an old head with good valves. Bolt the header on with good gaskets. Tip it so the collector is up. Fill it with soapy water. Pressurize the collector or individual tube. They make pipe plugs that will seal the collector. I assume 3"? Home Depot Plumbing dept. Round rubber plug with metal backing and wingnut. Drill hole through, and use your blower tip to fill with air.


Or Use the torch method.

A soft tickling clean flame (even propane) around the joint , in a darkish room. Look into the header tube, look for light.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2007, 09:07 AM
novajohnb's Avatar
It'll go, or it'll blow...
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: new jersey
Posts: 152
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
When welding exhaust pipes (not headers) I've used a long tube fluorescent drop light inside the pipes in a dimly lit room to instantly find the pinholes. Moving the light down the tubes and rotating 360 degrees covers every square inch of weld joint.

My drop light wouldn't fit though small headers, but a bright glow stick would, and it's flexible enough to pull through all the tubes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2008, 01:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You can use the expandable rubber stopper plugs that they sell at plumbing stores to seal it up. Drill a hole in one to mount the valve stem to pump it up.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent General Rodding Tech posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Welding info Kevin45 Body - Exterior 10 08-26-2011 08:09 AM
Can I weld a tab on my front spindles? Quarter Flash Hotrodders' Lounge 15 10-09-2006 02:25 PM
Headers & torque converter Questions Mustangsaly Engine 19 09-27-2006 07:39 PM
Headers on a 93 T/A outlaw17 Engine 0 07-18-2003 10:30 PM
Ford Block hugger headers Pilot34Coupe Engine 1 02-25-2003 05:18 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.