Chevy 327 - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2005, 06:24 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: 454
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: kentucky,florence
Age: 40
Posts: 135
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Steve T I dont care what you think! I'm just stating the facts if you want to hear it from an expert read this! http://www.badasscars.com/techtips.html

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2005, 06:34 PM
rrmccabe's Avatar
GM Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 53
Posts: 518
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well don't get my wrong. I would rather have an old technology small block as I love the nostalgia and sound, but technology will outrun old school pretty easy nowadays.

I am amazed with what can be done. As an example I help the family of the late Fred Gibb and the cities mayor with their car show each year. In 2002 they made a few last year Camaros and about 25 of them showed up for the show. Box stock they are 12:1 compression and run on PUMP GAS. Meet full emissions and are rated at 600 HP!

Believe me its technology that makes that happen. I may take advantage of this kind of stuff for my driver but I want points and a carburator on my hot rods

Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2005, 06:41 PM
rrmccabe's Avatar
GM Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 53
Posts: 518
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
babygene41042,

I think all he said is the 327 ruled before the 350. Not sure I heard him argue it was better.

I can attest to a 350. My first car was a 67 Camaro with M22 and 350. My dad was an ex racer for years and although it was not a high dollar motor it was absolutely the fastest thing I have ever owned.

Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2005, 11:18 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,706
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66pontiac
It is a 1964 327 block .030 over (331). It has a Weiand tunnel ram with 2 edelbrock 600's. The gears are 4:56 with a th350 tranny in an 87 Firebird. It has trw pistons, crane cam, pink rods and a cast crank, alsoa msd dist. Just looking to get above 6400 rpm's.She starts floating at 6400, so my shift point is 6200. Oh yea, I am old enough to remember the 327,s, 348,s and the 409's.just trying to build stronger with the 327. thanks for all the replys.
What heads are on it and have they had any port work? What size valves? What cam? Any idea what the compression ratio is? Are you hearin valve float? Bob
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 08:11 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wausau, WI
Age: 66
Posts: 44
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Chevy 327

Bob - They are the fuelie heads. The valves are 1.94 and 1.50. The cam is a crane Cam He put roller tip rocker on the exhaust valves and regular rockers on the intake. It is supposed to be .488 and .512. I doubt any port work has been done. The valves start floating at about 6400 rpm's. The compression is 10.5 - 1.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 08:15 AM
rrmccabe's Avatar
GM Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 53
Posts: 518
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I dont think 1.94s were ever "fuelies. I thought that name was reserved for 2.02's only??
"
There are huge variations in a 1.94 head as well. You might consider a cylinder head upgrade to start.

Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 08:19 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wausau, WI
Age: 66
Posts: 44
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Chevy 327

Rich - You are right, they are the camel hump heads. I am searching for a set of heads that are reasonable. I had a set of Dart Iron Eagles with 230 cc runners with manley valves and dual springs with 10 degree retainers and was stupid enough to get rid of them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 01:30 PM
johnsongrass1's Avatar
Race it, Don't rice it!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Columbia, Mo
Age: 38
Posts: 4,215
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts
Those are wwaaayyyy to big for a 331 anyway. You'll need nothing more than 200cc to make power to 8500.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 02:13 PM
xntrik's Avatar
Save a horse, Ride a Cowboy.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 5,131
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66pontiac
It is a 1964 327 block .030 over (331). It has a Weiand tunnel ram with 2 edelbrock 600's. The gears are 4:56 with a th350 tranny in an 87 Firebird. It has trw pistons, crane cam, pink rods and a cast crank, alsoa msd dist. Just looking to get above 6400 rpm's.She starts floating at 6400, so my shift point is 6200. Oh yea, I am old enough to remember the 327,s, 348,s and the 409's.just trying to build stronger with the 327. thanks for all the replys.
Gary,
RPMs in a 327 aren't hard to find. Pink rods are marginal if you go higher.
Think about what cam, lifters, springs, retainers, pushrods, etc. are you using. You are obviously valve train limited. I personally would consult with CompCams, Isky, and Lunati and see if you can get a consensus. Build for 1,000 rpm more than you desire... Springs get weaker with use.

230 cc heads are too big and kill everything below 3500. You'd need those gears. A wild rule of thumb for RPM is... Cubes x 55% = runner size.

Just remember, "cheaper" parts will make Rs and power, right up to the time something lets go, suddenly, unexpectedly, and usually spectacularly. Right BigDawg? As that old saying goes, "You can pay me now, or pay me later"

Last edited by xntrik; 09-02-2005 at 02:44 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 04:21 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wausau, WI
Age: 66
Posts: 44
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Chevy 327

What would be an ideal set of heads for all out drag racing? I know this is an open question, but would like something reasonable. I know Brodix and such are super, but a little out of my price range. Would have to sell the wife to get a set of those.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 04:26 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 288
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think your best improvement will be in the cam/valvetrain. I'd suggest swapping to a hydraulic roller cam with a powerband that takes you into the mid-upper 6k's, around 6500-6700 would be good for a 327 to use the good stroke ratio to squeeze every inch of power from the smaller cubes.

If you're on a budget or don't want to change cams, then I would suggest changing to some quality valvetrain parts to control your top end. Full roller rockers (roller tipped if saving $$), maybe bumping to 1.6 ratio to get some extra out of the cam you're using. Then above all make sure you've got some real good springs that will hold everything together and control that valve float. Make sure they're all installed correctly, clearanced, checked install height, pressure, etc. That's the real key. It sounds like you have the right idea though.

Another thing, if you're willing to dig into the engine I would recommend doing a port job on the heads. If you're handy then buy a standard abrasives kit from summit and do it yourself. I just did a set of old iron high comp heads for my 350 and I noticed 200% difference in top end power after they were done. I did about a medium grade port job mostly cleaning up the castings and gasket matching the runners. Picked up probably 25-35hp for $40 kit and a few hours of my time.

Good luck!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2005, 12:37 AM
xntrik's Avatar
Save a horse, Ride a Cowboy.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 5,131
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66pontiac
What would be an ideal set of heads for all out drag racing? I know this is an open question, but would like something reasonable. I know Brodix and such are super, but a little out of my price range. Would have to sell the wife to get a set of those.
please enclose pictures....... lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2005, 12:40 AM
xntrik's Avatar
Save a horse, Ride a Cowboy.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 5,131
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KNanthrup
I think your best improvement will be in the cam/valvetrain. I'd suggest swapping to a hydraulic roller cam with a powerband that takes you into the mid-upper 6k's, around 6500-6700 would be good for a 327 to use the good stroke ratio to squeeze every inch of power from the smaller cubes.

If you're on a budget or don't want to change cams, then I would suggest changing to some quality valvetrain parts to control your top end. Full roller rockers (roller tipped if saving $$), maybe bumping to 1.6 ratio to get some extra out of the cam you're using. Then above all make sure you've got some real good springs that will hold everything together and control that valve float. Make sure they're all installed correctly, clearanced, checked install height, pressure, etc. That's the real key. It sounds like you have the right idea though.

Another thing, if you're willing to dig into the engine I would recommend doing a port job on the heads. If you're handy then buy a standard abrasives kit from summit and do it yourself. I just did a set of old iron high comp heads for my 350 and I noticed 200% difference in top end power after they were done. I did about a medium grade port job mostly cleaning up the castings and gasket matching the runners. Picked up probably 25-35hp for $40 kit and a few hours of my time.

Good luck!
EXCELLENT.....
Think about the entire valve train weight, not just install heavy springs,,,, look at the new beehive springs, and CompCams light steel full roller rockers. Light weight pushrods.etc ..... No ball pivots rockers allowed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2005, 12:58 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wausau, WI
Age: 66
Posts: 44
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Chevy 327

From what I understand the guy who built the engine has roller tip rockers on the exhaust and regular on the intake. I believe the exhaust are 1.6 and the intake is 1.5 Giving the cam specs of .512 exh and .488 int. There are a brand new set of K-Motion springs and would work with just about any cam as far as lift. Ahhhh yeas, confusion, confusion, confusion. Still appreicate you all for replying though. Thanks, Gary
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2005, 09:38 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,706
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Pull that crane cam out of there, I'm assuming it's a hydraulic flat tappet cam. You'll make more power with a solid flat tappet design and the RPM range will increase. This is the cam I would run:

Comp extreme energy solid lifter

Make sure your valvesprings supply 130-135lbs of pressure at the seat with the valve closed and break the new cam in with lighter tension springs for 20 minutes. The cam I suggested is a very aggressive street/strip design and should pull good to 7K in a 331 if the heads will support the airflow. Figure on shifting a little over 7K.

Your heads are fuelie camel hump design, the first fuelie heads were all 1.94's and the 2.02's came out later. Are these 461, 462, 186, 041 or 492 castings?
Most of the older 327's came with the first design 461 or the second design 462 castings. All of these are good designs and have been proven to support over 500hp with the right mods. The 461X castings have a little larger runner volume. New aftermarket heads would be the easiest and best way to go because they have hardened seats and larger ports and may be your best route if you can sell off the old camel humps and recoop some of your money. Otherwise plan on spending about 40 hours opening and smoothing out the bowls and runners and upgrading to 2.02 or 2.05 intake valves and 1.60 exhausts. Unshrouding the chamber is also a must when upgrading to the larger valves. David Vizard has a book that explains all these mods and how they effect flow and power output. If you go with aftermarket heads get a port volume of 195-200.

If you pull the heads check the piston to deck height and also select a head gasket that will give a piston to head clearance of .038 to .040. Most pistons set .020 down in the hole at tdc and when thick type rebuilder .042-.050 head gasket is used it really screws up the quench distance which also kills the performance. When GM built these motors at the factory they used thin .018 steel shim head gaskets with the pistons .020 down in the hole and the quench distance was perfect. If the wrong gasket is used you could be giving up a whole 1/2 point of compression which is a lot on a 327 where compression is usually hard to get in the first place.

I don't know of anyone who is running the edelbrock carbs on a tunnel ram, most serious tunnel ram setups have mechanical secondary design carbs with a double pumper design, the old center squirter 660 Holley was a tunnel ram designed carb.

The 4.56's are perfect for a high winding tunnel rammed 327 IMO, with 4.11's or higher the rpm drop between gears would really put the 327 out of it's power range after the shift.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
proper camshaft for a 327 chevy??? straycat60 Engine 22 06-14-2011 06:19 AM
Chevy 327 with a 3.48" stroke??? Chevelle Crazy Engine 9 01-12-2007 11:52 AM
rebuilt chevy 327 small block wont fire 78 Nova Engine 3 01-12-2006 06:54 AM
Chevy 327 Engine # Junior's67 Hotrodding Basics 5 11-14-2003 02:59 PM
Chevy 327 Cam/Lifter Change Ted's37 Engine 4 04-23-2003 08:23 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.