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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyMopar318250
what do you mean take the distrubter our and recurve it? how do i go about doing that?

and why do you guys say i wont like the stock stall converter? im not sure if its the stock one but it came out of a 1985 k10 that somone put a 350 in and a th350 so i got the tranny and stall.? i just got done a install on that transmission cause my 700r4 crapped out. and now u guys are saying im gunna have to take the tranny back out? what would be better with a 3500 stall? i dont know nothing about stall converts thats why im askin. just wondering what would happen with the wrong stall? truck wont have alot of power? or somting?
You will need to limit the travel of the Mechanical advance of your Distributor http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...178/index.html to 10*, with 26* Initial = 36*

A stock Converter has a low rpm stall rating about 1600-1800rpm max.
It doesn't slip enough allow the engine rpms to get into the reccomended rpm range of your Cam. Which is 2800-6300rpm. It will give "very" poor take off performance.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 02:50 AM
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Nate, what nobody is telling you yet is that you screwed up and put too much cam in the motor. That cam needs at least 10.5:1 static compression ratio to work right. That's why the motor is, as you said, ball-less. Until you tear into the motor and determine the static compression ratio and install a cam that matches up to whatever static compression ratio you have in the motor, it will be a nightmare that you have to live with.

You're being told to use a looser converter because the cam doesn't begin making power until 3000 rpm's. Any motor speed under 3000 is gonna be doggy. We use a looser converter so that when we wood the loud pedal, the motor spins up past the dead zone (idle-3000) and gets into a zone of rpm's where the motor is making some horsepower. The looser converter will also prevent the "banging" into gear from neutral due to the increased idle speed required with a long cam.

I'm sorry that you didn't find out about the "too much cam" syndrome before you began buying parts, but at least you will now learn from some fellows on this board how to do it right next time.

Bottom line in my opinion: Yank the cam out, pull the heads and determine what the actual static compression ratio is. Only then can you intelligently choose a cam for the motor. Don't feel bad about this. All of us have done it at one time or another. I was just a couple years older than you when I stabbed a very long cam into a 1500cc VW, a cam with 122 degrees of overlap. What I had done was to install a cam in an 8.00:1 motor that should have been installed in a 12.0:1 motor. The motor wouldn't pull the hat off your head under 3500. Over 3500, a stock 1600 would hand me my *** on a plate.

Last edited by techinspector1; 08-29-2010 at 03:18 AM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 08:47 AM
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how am i suppto tell what my compression ratio is? we had the motor tour apart. bored 60 over with flat top pistons the stock heads been shaved and the guy that put the motor told us to get this cam cause its consitere a rv cam and has alot of low end tourque. but now u guys say about the stall converter i dont really know know, maybe this one is stock. maybe its not. anyway to find out by looking at it i have the dust cover off on the tranny. illl just run the damn thing. if the tranny goes its getting a 4 speed muncie anyway. or a 5 speed
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Old 08-29-2010, 08:50 AM
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as for the ad vance canister should i turn it out a little more to get 25 advacnce? its at 23.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 10:31 AM
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An RV cam usually has 250-270 degrees adv. duration, and .420-.470 lift. Will work with a stock converter, and has good bottom end. Rpm from 800 to 4000 or so. The cam you have is most definately not an RV cam. It's operating range is from about 3000-6500 rpm. Fbird told it true, to make it work you will need to do some more work.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:47 AM
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yeah you need a 3500 stall, recurve the dist, and the gears id use 3.73's and up depending on what you are useing it for, timing it would do good setting inital timing @ 16, or persay 36 total..
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyMopar318250
as for the ad vance canister should i turn it out a little more to get 25 advacnce? its at 23.
You got some build issues here, its all there in the other posts, you should get us more info on the motor but a band-aid can be the HEI dist:

first get the dist out and on a clean bench, get a vacuum gage and a good light, pull the rotor off, you are going to set limits on both the vac advance can and the mech advance travel,,,wanna?

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/254g.pdf
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:48 PM
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ill just run it, it seems to run fine. i aint gunna change the gears has 3o8 gears. to change the gears idd have to change the front to. its a 1985 chevy k10. for some reason i thought the cam i bogught was a rv cam. so what is this cam a top end cam?
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:50 PM
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ill probably have someone look at the truck and tune it
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyMopar318250
ill probably have someone look at the truck and tune it
That may be your best plan. It seems like you are really uninterested in learning how to do it yourself.
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyMopar318250
ill just run it, it seems to run fine. i aint gunna change the gears has 3o8 gears. to change the gears idd have to change the front to. its a 1985 chevy k10. for some reason i thought the cam i bogught was a rv cam. so what is this cam a top end cam?
Yep, 308 and nothing out of the gate, the combo is a bit of a mismatch but don't let it get ya down. The combo just won't pick up the truck like you thought, if you are going to drive it as is then surely get the dist curve/setup figured out at the very least. Expect the guy that tunes it to repeat some of what you have heard here if he knows his onions,,,don't give up on it.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:03 PM
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It aint that i wnat to learn. I know how to do it. but i dont got the cash to take get a stop plate, Can i get one threw summit.? maybe if someone could post a link to the one i need for my msd street fire i will. im going to but the dissy stop on deffinly and time it to what it need to be, Will running it how it is now hurt anything i gotta goo to work and back...., it dont seem that hard to put a dissy stop in. can i do it with the dissy in the truck? or do i gotta take it out. as for the stall. ill have to wait till next summer to get a other stall. so you guys think a 3500 would be good for me. i did some reading today i hurd of people using a 2900 tall too. well if one of you guys could like say what im gunna need to get it tuned right. but as for changing out rearend gears and front end gears thats kind out. unless its not that big of a job. but i have to change the front if i change the back correct to use my 4x4? im sorry if i came across to you guys the wrong way. i dont know nothing about stalls so i figured the one that came with this tranny would be perfect what differnce will a 3500 stall bee from the stock? im not drag racin it just a daily driver. but i want it to have some BALLS too lol. will the 3500 make the engine wind more? my th350 shifts at 4 grand into 3rd gear thats as high as i can get it... probably the timing/ tuning as alot to do with it or is 4 grand about right?

^ LOTS OF QUESTIONS SORRY^^^
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:19 PM
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will this work for me? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99619-1/


does a stall converter affect top end or just bottom end? like take off?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 06:47 PM
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OK so now you want to fix it,,,then remeber the combo I refered to? well you may be lucky cause if you want a driver then a new cam is the easyest solution here. Whoa on the convertor/gears for a bit.

Check out he previous posts and find/figure out the engine DCR and the SCR, this requires you know everything about the machining of the block and the part #'s used etc., get the numbers and in the mean time do the:

HEI, pull it out yourself, it will help you get a handle on things in more ways than one. The crane plate can be dupilcated but if you have time order it, otherwise make your own. Its all one step at a time, remember that you also need to set the mech adv travel and curve springs so this may require further parts/kits. Best to plan ahead and order the parts (maybe 40 bucks). Keep driving it till you get what you need. Mean time try and get the engine info so you can select a cam later, you may not need new conv/gears but the 308's are limiting you,,, reqardless the HEI mods will apply to the new "RV" cam as well. So decide to fix it or have it fixed
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 06:58 PM
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The cam in your motor is a total mismatch for the engine, truck converter and rear gears and the purpose. Change the camshaft.

Use summit cam #K1102 or K1103 $100 and some gaskets and a days work and you are all good to go. ebay the 292 cam to someone that needs it to recover the cost. Keep the lifters in order with the old cam. Install new cam + new lifters.

YOu picked the wrong cam. Fix the cam, not the rest of the truck.
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