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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 06:57 PM
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Well i say driver. but not really. this truck is probably only gunna be used in the winter. im a sugar maker. I make maple syrup so the trucks gunna be used in the spring to haul sappp ALOT OF A WEIGHT. and during the winter to go to the woods and haul supplies i need. I orderd the crane limiter plate. you think i need to get a spring kit for it too? like a lighter spring? will the truck run better with this limiter thing?


Get this spring kit? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G5212/?rtype=10

Or this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8428/?rtype=10

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Last edited by ChevyMopar318250; 08-29-2010 at 07:05 PM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 07:39 PM
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my KARMA ran over my DOGMA
 

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Well what we are look'n at is effectively changing the way the HEI does its thing or to optimize it for what it is and what it is being used in. This is not going to be a magic bullet but it will help. Your cold temp starting/idle is most likely going to be horrible unless you can change the cam.

The crane part should be the correct one, this only takes care of the VAC advance part and the can you got should have an internal adjustment screw, allen head thats inside inline with the hose nipple, you will need to tweak this as well.

The mechanical advance limiter parts need to be matched for the dist you have, and I can't say what will work with your HEI. Really you could most likely get by with the weights you have and just use different springs to set the rate of mech advance you need. The other factor that is in question is a mechanical limiter which is not in those kits. What is the model # of the dist? there are a number of ways to set the mech adv limit.
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:52 PM
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its a msd street fire hei. part number at summit 8362
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 07:54 PM
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so order a kit with just springs ?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 08:38 PM
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my KARMA ran over my DOGMA
 

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Yeah just get a set of springs for now, this kit comes with some and is low buck, you may use the other parts but can't say right now

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-929G/?rtype=10

Can you post a close up pic of the dist without the cap and rotor on it? it may be that you just need to add a nut and bolt in there to limit the mech advance, can't be sure cause I don't have the one you do, but it may be very similar to mine and that is all it took, note the robinson head machine scew, this stops the travel.

Once the parts get in take the HEI out, or do it now if the truck can sit. Remove the cap noting what tower on the cap the #1 plug wire is on, mark this inline on the dist base and turn the engine over with the cap off until the rotor is pointing at #1 note yout timing mark on the front damper it should be around TDC, once you get the rotor pointing approx on #1, losen the hold down and pull the dist. Got a vacuum gage?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 09:04 PM
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yes i have a vacuum gauge
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 11:07 PM
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Change the cam. This truck will be a turd no matter what you do to is until you CHANGE THE CAM.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 07:04 AM
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[QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom10
OK so now you want to fix it,,,then remeber the combo I refered to? well you may be lucky cause if you want a driver then a new cam is the easyest solution here. Whoa on the convertor/gears for a bit.

Check out he previous posts and find/figure out the engine DCR and the SCR, this requires you know everything about the machining of the block and the part #'s used etc., get the numbers and in the mean time do the HEI
Yep we all agree except for the OP, your right tech a new cam is the best way to go, but getting some time under the hood and raising up the base from 8 deg BTDC and adding some limiters will help out,

318250
while in there maybe you can pull a valve cover and let us know what the head casting numbers are also what intake, carb, etc. need more info,,, don't know if your still with us here?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 04:51 PM
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Well heres what iknow off my head. chevy 350 bored 60 over. Seal power flat top pistions. as for heads i know there stock i think but ill try and get the numbers. intake is a edelbrock performer. carb is a 650 holley.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:58 PM
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i gues i should of kept the cam that was in it IN It lol i think it had a 260 duration or somting. it was with a whole chevy 350 sealpower kit. but o well. i dont think ill be changin the cam. engines in the truck now. and i just dont have the time to tear it all apart. ill just trya nad fix what i got. i know what u guys mean it will be a turd with the 308 gears and stuff but im not rich. cant change gears and rear ends. maybe in the furtue? maybe if i would of put a manual in the truck it would have more balls. since of the stall converter. maybe ill change the stall next summer. you guys think ill be okay with with a new converter and with my stock gearS?
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:59 PM
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I orderd the spring kit and the advance limiter. is there anything elts ill need for the dissy?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 05:44 PM
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2 x 4? Meet jaw of a stubborn mule. CHANGE THE CAM! What does a new cam and lifters cost? You are gonna spend more than that nickel and diming yourself to death trying to make a mismatched combo run. Listen to what has been said to you. You came here for advice, take it!
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyMopar318250
i gues i should of kept the cam that was in it IN It lol i think it had a 260 duration or somting. it was with a whole chevy 350 sealpower kit. but o well. i dont think ill be changin the cam. engines in the truck now. and i just dont have the time to tear it all apart. ill just trya nad fix what i got. i know what u guys mean it will be a turd with the 308 gears and stuff but im not rich. cant change gears and rear ends. maybe in the furtue? maybe if i would of put a manual in the truck it would have more balls. since of the stall converter. maybe ill change the stall next summer. you guys think ill be okay with with a new converter and with my stock gearS?
Between the higher stall converter and stiffer rear gears, you'd be ahead to change the gears, or the transmission.

A high stall converter builds in an amount of slip that allows the engine to rev up without forcing the rear wheels to rotate over the brake force restraining them. This is intended to allow the driver to improve his hole shot time by letting the engine move up on it's power curve RPMs without spinning the rear tires over the brakes as I've already said. However, stall is a quirky thing having a lot of variables as to where it will really occur which have to do with engine torque, vehicle weight, rear axle ratio and locking force of the brake system, etc. A converter sold as having a 3000 RPM stall may, or not, actually perform that way in your vehicle. A high stall converter acts like a slipper clutch except that you don't really have much, if any, control over the amount or extent of the slip. What a high stall converter will do on the street is eliminate the creep the vehicle will want to do when stopped for traffic, your foot will get tired from keeping the thing stopped, trust me on this.

One way to recover some lost bottom end for not much effort or cost would be to advance the cam. The Chevy cam uses a pin thru a hole in the gear to establish its timing position. Bushings are sold that fit this hole, with some drilling, that allow the position of the cam relative to the crank to be moved. Advancing the cam recovers bottom end torque but at the cost of some top end. Retarding cam just the opposite. This doesn't change the duration or lift but changes the timing event relative to the crank's position, in this case it closes the intake sooner which recovers some cylinder mixture density, refer back to my early on epistle.

Two other related tricks are to use a fast leakdown lifter like Rhoads, this actually takes some duration off the cam by allowing the plunger to sink against valve spring pressure lowering the net lift and shortening the duration at low RPMs, eventually, the cam will be turning so fast the lifter doesn't have time to react at which point it restores the duration and lift at high RPMs. The problem is they tick like solids. Another solution would be to use a lesser ratio rocker arm, stock being 1.5, most go fast guys change those to 1.6, but you can get 1.4s which would slow the timing events and lower the lift. The engine will react to that as if the cam had less duration bringing the bottom end power up and slicing off some top end. Can't have both with fixed cam timing, but that's a way different story occurring at Indy and European F1 racing, but it's a technology that's coming just not for old SBCs.

The other would be to replace the transmission with a 700R4. These have a real deep low and an overdrive 4th. The deep low (about a ratio more than the TH350 or 400) will launch the vehicle a lot harder, while the OD high and 3.08 rear gear will cruise on few RPMs.

But the simplest and least costly solutions would be to put less cam or stiffer rear gears in there.

Bogie

Last edited by oldbogie; 08-30-2010 at 06:05 PM.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 07:09 PM
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Get your head out of your butt.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:20 PM
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what kind of gears? would be best? i wish i could find a truck with the right gears i need and just change the front and rear axels? that would work right. as for a 700r4 thats what it had but it was fried. *** for getting me head out of my but, hand me ur wallet. and time and i will
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