Chevy 350 with 292 cam Total timing - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 07:23 PM
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now u guys have me wanting to change the gears. what set will work best.? and whats the best way to do it. find a rear and front end that will work? or take the rear end apart and do it my self? isnt it pretty hard to change gears in a rear end.? like dont they have to calibrated and shimmed? and wil lthe stock stall be okay if i change the gears?

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 07:49 PM
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alright here it is, Lets say i put a 3000 stall in and keep the gears i got will it be alot better? cause changing a stall seems easier than changing gears if i cant find a rear end with the right gears. sincei just did a tranny swap. but if it wont be much differnt with a 3000 stall and my stock gears i guess ill have to change the gears too. i have 373 gears in my c10 but its only 2wd if i could find a front one id be set and put the 308 rear end in the c10. well just let me know what u guys think, just cahnge the stall and be OKAY BUT NOT GREAT? or Change the stall and gears and be perfect. id rather just change the stall but let me know what will be okay. im building a RACE machine. just somthing to play in the mud with. and drive around. so if the stall with be okay ill do that but if it will stil be crappy ill have to do the gears too. and what gears would be great to use. id like some gas milage.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 08:08 PM
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gas mileage and a 292 cam don't exist in the same world. Especially with the parts mismatch you have. The eaisiest and most cost effective repair to your problem has been mentioned several times. You need a different camshaft. You could go into something like the 270H comp cam, and keep pretty much everything you already have. Cost to you - $100 or so. Converter cost - $300-$500+. Gears - $600 each set, plus shim kits, bearings and seals. The 270H is advertised as the largest cam for stock converter, with 224*@.050", .470" lift. The 3.08 gears would be the smallest gear I would ever use, but not too bad with this camshaft. Slightly choppy idle, not too much though. I think this is the best solution for your issues.
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:22 PM
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i already found 1985 k20 wiht a 4 speed manual trans. for 400 bucks. gunna buy if ithe guy still has it.

If i dont use the 4 speed i can use tha axels that have a stiffer gears since its a 3/4 ton truck
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2010, 09:30 AM
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2 x 4? Meet jaw of a stubborn mule. CHANGE THE CAM!
well put crd
Mr 318250 you are all over the map, do you think there is some kind of magic to changing a cam? it is way simple/cheap and compared to chassis rebuilds, and tranny swaps???? come on.

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I orderd the spring kit and the advance limiter. is there anything elts ill need for the dissy?
I was all in favor of help'n, now not so much,,,see post # 10, your base may not need to be as high as 26 IMHO but your total should be 34- 36 without vac advance.


I am outta this one, good luck to ya
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2010, 10:54 AM
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By the time you pay the $400 for the truck, and get new ubolts, and all the other stuff that will be required to swap axles from a 3/4 ton to your 1/2 ton, you will be $600+. A cam swap is the best, most cost effective and least expensive of repairs for your issue. The cam is $123.xx on the comp website, lifters are cheap, $30 in gaskets. You will be under $250, and you will have a truck you can drive, that will actually pull the stink off sh1t. With pretty much anything you do with the 292 cam, with the parts you have, it will be a turd. The heads will run out of breath just as the cam is waking up. The stall speed is too tight, killing any hope of launching this tank. The gears are too low, numerically. To make this run, you will need $1500-$2500 in parts. Simply changing a converter and gears doesn't change the fact the whole combination is mismatched. We have all overcammed and engine before. It is a simple rookie mistake. Yo have been given some good advice by people who have "been there, done that". Some have given advice on how to crutch the issue, and others have advised on how to fix it. To fix it you need to match up your combo, be it to the cam you have, or a cam to the rest of the truck. Price it up, you will find a cam swap to be the most affordable, and net you the most effective results.

Stop being stubborn.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2010, 12:58 PM
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Hey fbird! I dont know what cam that is,I was gonna tell him to get something in the order of.
.450/.460 220 @ .050 112 LSA or something close to that n just use 1.5:1
I believe this is close to a cam chevy used with s/b in 60s
Also timing straight up wouldnt hurt,another confusing subject!
But I dont wanna confuse him any more that what he already is!
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:35 PM
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my truck acually is a 3/4 ton. Has a 3/4 ton frame anyway
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:38 PM
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probably will change the cam. Thanks guys for all the help.
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:41 PM
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my ol man will think im nuts taking a engine apart since i never built a engine.
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:42 PM
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you guys ever hurd of a fireball cam? that was the cam i was suppto get but i couldnt find one? do they still make them?
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2010, 05:07 PM
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Crane Cams made the Fireball line up.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2010, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyMopar318250
my truck acually is a 3/4 ton. Has a 3/4 ton frame anyway
Sorry, I read K10 in there somewhere.... my bad.
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:40 PM
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it is a k10 lol. we put a 3/4 ton frame on it
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:47 PM
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Well i guess ill have to see what happens. i really like this cam though it sucks. it sounds good lol. but id really like new axels. these wimpy half ton ones suck. not POSI either. lol. well thanks for everything guys ill recurve my disturber and go from there. i know a camshaft install is kinda easiy. but my dad probably would think im crazy haha since we didnt even put the engine together .
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