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Old 08-18-2013, 09:04 PM
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chevy 350 alternator wiring

I just got this 49 chev, the 12v upgrades been done.
Delco Remmy # TT-598 alt.
It wouldn't shut off, so he put a switch on the alt line.
Aftermarket ign. switch no acc.
The number one post is supposed to got through a light and fuse.
Can't I run an amp meter W/ light through that line?
Will I still need the diode?
Thanks Pat

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Old 08-18-2013, 11:34 PM
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I don't see a tag to edit this post, but
I meant do I still need to add a resistor?
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:48 AM
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The amp meter monitors the entire elec system, thus all the vehicles pwr is run thru the amp meter etc....... where as the light just let's you know the alt is or isn't putting out juice.....

Terminal #1 from the alt goes to the one side of the idiot light on the dash. The other side of the idiot light goes to a switched 12v source (hot when the key is in the run position) This is the exciter wire and tells the alt to start producing juice. The idiot light does not get a ground wire, it gets a ground from the internal regulator in the alt when the alt isn't spinning. That's why it lights when the key is turned to run but the engine isn't running, and it goes out when the engine starts.

Terminal #2 from the alt goes to the hot side of the wiring system, normally it’s spliced into the hot feed leading to the fuse box. This is the sense wire, it tells the alt to produce more or less juice depending on the demands of your electrical system.

The large lug on the back of the alt is the output wire or charge wire and is normally tied directly to the pos post on the battery via a large gage battery cable

If you want to keep the look of the Amp meter..... you might be able to take the guts of a elec meter and transplant them into the amp housing keeping the face plate etc...

You don't have to use a idiot light or a resistor if it's wired right, I don't use one..... I provide a switched 12v to the #1 terminal and it works perfectly.

If you are using a switch to prevent run on of the engine, you need to put in a diode or rewire it to prevent the back feed thus eliminating the switch.

Last edited by EOD Guy; 08-19-2013 at 03:58 AM.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post

Terminal #1 from the alt goes to the one side of the idiot light on the dash. The other side of the idiot light goes to a switched 12v source (hot when the key is in the run position) This is the exciter wire and tells the alt to start producing juice. The idiot light does not get a ground wire, it gets a ground from the internal regulator in the alt when the alt isn't spinning. That's why it lights when the key is turned to run but the engine isn't running, and it goes out when the engine starts.

Terminal #2 from the alt goes to the hot side of the wiring system, normally itís spliced into the hot feed leading to the fuse box. This is the sense wire, it tells the alt to produce more or less juice depending on the demands of your electrical system.
Thanks
that's the explanation I needed, this cars got an after market gauge cluster, the only thing stock is the ash tray.
What was throwing me was this idiot light wired in series.
And thats why they wire a resistor parallel, to replace a burnt out light.
Thanks again Pat
PS I found the electrical posts after I posted this in engine-FNG
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:43 PM
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Thanks to all the folks who went through this before, and wrote it up.
I soldered in a rectifier diode, 14.2 volts right on the money.
I'm still wondering about putting a light in series on the number 1 post. Is that little filament enough resistance
to shut down the back flow?
Pat
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:49 AM
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It depends on what bulb is wired in. I don't use a bulb or resistor...... I wired mine with a wire straight from the ing switch to the alt terminal. My reasoning....... 1 I used a digital dash with LEDs, so an incandescent bulb wouldn't look good all by it's self and 2 Going straight from the ing switch..... when the switch went dead the feed to the alt also went dead..... since there were no other circuits on that wire etc.....
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
went dead the feed to the alt also went dead..... since there were no other circuits on that wire etc.....
You must have separate power source for lights etc.
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:03 PM
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Not really...... I tapped into the ACCY post on my ing switch (that also pwrs the ACCY buss in the fuse block) and ran a wire straight to the alt terminal.... when the switch goes to off.... fuse block and the alt terminal goes dead.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:49 PM
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tapkoote, the lights in the car get power from the battery which is typically direct to the light switch regardless of the key position.

The amp meters were never a good idea but you can make use of it fairly safely. It will show you what current is being drawn for what ever circuit you series it in to. I dont recommend it but if you put it on the thick wire going to the battery you'd see the entire current draw on the alternator. But, if you put it on just the line that feeds an accessory fuse or one of the wires that supplies the fuse box youd see the AMP draw on that particular line alone. They dont make any amp meters that can handle the AMPS of todays cars and even older cars have upgraded devices such as brighter lights, newer radios etc.

If you put a light in series with ANYTHING, its going to pop. Its only as an idiot light in this case.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tapkoote View Post
Thanks to all the folks who went through this before, and wrote it up.
I soldered in a rectifier diode, 14.2 volts right on the money.
I'm still wondering about putting a light in series on the number 1 post. Is that little filament enough resistance
to shut down the back flow?
Pat
Putting in a light wont solve the issue. The problem is somewhere once the car is running there is power getting from the alternator back into the electrical system. If everything is wired properly there is no need for a diode. The diode is compensating for faulty wiring.

This is a common issue with aftermarket wiring.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:02 PM
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You always need to run the diode when running an MSD box.
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:19 PM
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I dont run one in my T-bucket and I have an MSD ignition box. If the wiring in the car is done correctly the engine will shut off when you turn the key off. There are no factory cars that I know of with a diode in the alternator feed line.
The diode is a band aid for poor wiring
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:37 PM
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The diode was usually for cars with an external regulator and using msd. The msd would stay powered up. I agree theres likely some other wiring issue though
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