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Old 03-04-2012, 03:07 AM
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chevy 350 break in or?

do i have to break in my engine if im using the same cam if so please give tips and type of oil thanks,
everythings new except the cam and rockers

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Old 03-04-2012, 03:52 AM
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"....do i have to break in my engine if im using the same cam if so please give tips and type of oil thanks. everythings new except the cam and rockers......"

That will depend on a couple of things.... if you used new lifters then the standard breakin procedures apply. If you used the OLD lifters and you are SURE they are riding on the same lobes then you will not need to go thru cam breakin. If you are using the old lifters and are not sure they are on the original lobes STOP NOW, remove all the lifters and replace them with new ones.

Everyone has has there own view on breakin procedures, but here is what I do....Fill the engine with oil (personally I prefer a good 10-30 with a bottle of GM EOS). Prime the engine with an electric drill and dummy shaft. I turn the engine over a little bit at a time until ALL the rockers begin oiling. Reinstall the distributor and make sure the timing is close enough to start. If the car is not equipped with gauges temporally install an oil pressure and water temp gauge in the engine compartment. Fire the engine and let run for 20 minuets or so right around 2000 RPM (shut down early if the engine overheats or has low oil pressure). Drain the oil and change the filter. Get the car on the road as soon as possible to break in the rings, drive at varying speeds for the first few hundred miles to help seat the rings (DO NOT just fire it up in the garage for a few minuets at a time because you like to hear how it runs). If you do have to run it in the shop off and on to do other things before you can drive the car, run it long enough to bring it up to full operating temperature.
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:16 PM
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That's an OK break-in procedure, however for me, I would use the primer until I had oil at the rockers, rather than chance wiping the cam lobes of the assembly/break-in lube. I'd also run the rpm's up and down, varying from 1500 to 250 during that period. Keep an eye on the coolant level, when the thermostat opens, add fluid and cap it. A large floor fan in front is a plus to keep things cooler. Do a leak search.
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Old 03-04-2012, 01:57 PM
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thanks for the info, im using the same lifter there basically still new no wear patterns or anything the engine was never driven b4 just 2-4 test drives around the block. but i did use an ornganizer tray so i no there in the same spot.

so i prime it and check the oil pressure and make sure oil is coming threw all rockers.

then once im ready to start just start it like regular nothin extra.

and to seat the rings i run it at diffrent speeds for the first 100 miles
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frost2000
do i have to break in my engine if im using the same cam if so please give tips and type of oil thanks,
everythings new except the cam and rockers
Are there new lifters on the cam?

If you reused the old lifters, are they on the same lobe each come from?

If the answer is new lifters or the the old lifters are on different lobes, the answer is you've got to run the basic cam break-in profile on start up.

If you put the original mated lifters and cam lobes back together then break in is a lot less complicated.

Bogie
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
Are there new lifters on the cam?

If you reused the old lifters, are they on the same lobe each come from?

If the answer is new lifters or the the old lifters are on different lobes, the answer is you've got to run the basic cam break-in profile on start up.

If you put the original mated lifters and cam lobes back together then break in is a lot less complicated.

Bogie
they are not new and they were put in the same spots
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frost2000
thanks for the info, im using the same lifter there basically still new no wear patterns or anything the engine was never driven b4 just 2-4 test drives around the block. but i did use an ornganizer tray so i no there in the same spot.

so i prime it and check the oil pressure and make sure oil is coming threw all rockers.

then once im ready to start just start it like regular nothin extra.

and to seat the rings i run it at diffrent speeds for the first 100 miles
HERE is a page w/some articles that have some useful info for you, particularly "Camshaft install tips and tricks". Also "Valve train points to check" is worth a look.

When you break in the engine/rings after the cam is broken in, varying the speed and using engine braking to slow down after running up the rev band helps. Don't beat hell out of the new engine right off the bat (IMO), rather warm it up completely then go out where you can vary the speed w/o worrying about traffic so much and run it up the rev band (no need to redline it) while you are driving and varying your speed.

The main point is don't just baby it driving it around slowly and/or at one speed- varying the speed w/intermittent runs up the rev band allowing the engine to slow the vehicle by engine braking is what I would recommend.

Change the oil after the cam break in, then again after 500 miles before going to a normal maintenance routine. Don't neglect to use adequate oil or an additive- even after the cam break in- if you have a flat tappet cam.

The rings will be broken in before 500 miles, if you used moly rings and the recommended finish for them (or for whatever rings you used, as long as we're not talking about chrome-faced rings) the rings will be broken in by 100 miles in most cases.

Because there will be a chance of some small amount of motor oil getting past the rings until they're broken in, reduce the total timing by a couple degrees to be sure it doesn't detonate, and use the highest octane pump gas you have in your area (race gas if the CR is high enough to need it).

Last edited by cobalt327; 03-04-2012 at 02:41 PM.
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