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Old 12-30-2005, 10:28 PM
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Chevy 350 Build (What do you think?)

I've been working on getting information on how to build my Chevy 350 for my 1974 Nova. I will probably run 3.55 gears with a 2600 stall convetor.

What do you think about these parts:

Intake:
Edelbrock's Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake

Heads:
World S/R Torquer 58cc Heads

Pistons:
Keith Black Flat Top Pistons

Cam: Updated 10:46AM 12-31-05
Comp Xtreme XR282HR-10 CAM

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Last edited by bccsrc; 12-31-2005 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:16 PM
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Intake fine
Heads ick, go with Iron Eagle
Cam fine
Pistons fine
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:47 PM
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If this is a street engine keep in mind the combustion chamber size and the piston design, if the compression ratio is too high, it`ll require race gas as the octane of pump gas won`t be high enough and it`ll detonate itself to death in short order. flat top pistons with 58cc heads would place the ratio around 11:1, too high for pump gas.
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Old 12-31-2005, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick WI
Intake fine
Heads ick, go with Iron Eagle
Cam fine
Pistons fine
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
If this is a street engine keep in mind the combustion chamber size and the piston design, if the compression ratio is too high, it`ll require race gas as the octane of pump gas won`t be high enough and it`ll detonate itself to death in short order. flat top pistons with 58cc heads would place the ratio around 11:1, too high for pump gas.
DoubleVision, this will be mainly a street engine. I don't want to run race gas.

Iron Eagle heads would work. Which one is the question. Considering the 58cc will be too much compression, maybe I should go with a Combustion Chamber of 64cc, or 72cc. What size Intake Runner should I get, 180cc, or 200cc? Which is best for the Edelbrock Air-Gap Intake?

Will this cam give me rough idle and lots of lope/bumpity bump when idling? Do I need to purchase the lifters that come in the Cam kit above, or can I get less expensive ones?

This is fun and Very cool!
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Old 12-31-2005, 10:22 AM
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Keep in mind, that cam is for a new style block equipped with a roller cam from the factory. If you're using it in an older block use cam CCA-12-432-8. You will need some other stuff as well, including the roller lifters and a cam button. That cam would give you a pretty rough idle.
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:32 AM
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I am assuming you are using an older block for a 74 Nova.

According to JE Pistons you will be between 11.0 and 11.3 compression with a 5.7 rod and flat top piston, depending on bore. This is getting into race fuel. The 64cc head is a better choice.

The Perf/RPM Airgap is an excellent choice. The airgap gives the engine a cooler fuel charge.

The smaller the runner size the better the low end throttle response. From Edelbrock website: Bigger is not always better! A large port doesn’t always mean more power. This is especially true with street heads and in some cases, race heads. Velocity is just as important as flow. A smaller port volume generally equates to higher velocity for better street performance. The speed of the mixture determines how tightly the combustion chamber is packed. The more tightly packed the combustion chamber, the more pressure is developed when the mixture is ignited, pushing the piston with more force for more power. For example: A large port and a big flow number at 0.600" lift means low velocity (especially off-idle to 3500 rpm) and results in less throttle response. For the street, velocity is the key to overall performance.

I use the XR282 in my 400 sb with Edel heads and was surprised to find the roller does not have the lumpy idle that you get from a flat tappet cam. The car idles smoothly but lacks bottom end torque with 2800 stall. If you want to blow the tires off you will require at least 3600 stall. Mid range torque is awesome. I rarely if ever kick in my four barrels to pass another car.

I use the Comp retro roller lifters with the retro roller pushrods. This saved figuring out valve geometry as it is a matched set. I did have to spring for Comp roller tip rockers as the stamp steel rockers were binding and set too high on the studs for proper adjustment.

If you want to deal with valve geometry issues. There are better roller lifters with side oil slots for additional roller oiling. I believe Crane makes them.

I don't know the specs on other heads but the Edelbrock Perf/RPM heads have the exact install height and spring pressures for that cam. It requires 1.800 install height and 120 lbs seat pressure with 320 lbs @ .500.
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Last edited by bracketeer; 12-31-2005 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 12-31-2005, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangef4
Keep in mind, that cam is for a new style block equipped with a roller cam from the factory. If you're using it in an older block use cam CCA-12-432-8. You will need some other stuff as well, including the roller lifters and a cam button. That cam would give you a pretty rough idle.
Comp Cam CCA-12-432-8 is the one I need for a 1974 Chevy 350? What lifters can I use and what is a cam button?


Quote:
Originally Posted by bracketeer
I am assuming you are using an older block for a 74 Nova.

According to JE Pistons you will be between 11.0 and 11.3 compression with a 5.7 rod and flat top piston, depending on bore. This is getting into race fuel. The 64cc head is a better choice.

The Perf/RPM Airgap is an excellent choice. The airgap gives the engine a cooler fuel charge.

The smaller the runner size the better the low end throttle response. From Edelbrock website: Bigger is not always better! A large port doesn’t always mean more power. This is especially true with street heads and in some cases, race heads. Velocity is just as important as flow. A smaller port volume generally equates to higher velocity for better street performance. The speed of the mixture determines how tightly the combustion chamber is packed. The more tightly packed the combustion chamber, the more pressure is developed when the mixture is ignited, pushing the piston with more force for more power. For example: A large port and a big flow number at 0.600" lift means low velocity (especially off-idle to 3500 rpm) and results in less throttle response. For the street, velocity is the key to overall performance.

I use the XR282 in my 400 sb with Edel heads and was surprised to find the roller does not have the lumpy idle that you get from a flat tappet cam. The car idles smoothly but lacks bottom end torque with 2800 stall. If you want to blow the tires off you will require at least 3600 stall. Mid range torque is awesome. I rarely if ever kick in my four barrels to pass another car.

I use the Comp retro roller lifters with the retro roller pushrods. This saved figuring out valve geometry as it is a matched set. I did have to spring for Comp roller tip rockers as the stamp steel rockers were binding and set too high on the studs for proper adjustment.

If you want to deal with valve geometry issues. There are better roller lifters with side oil slots for additional roller oiling. I believe Crane makes them.

I don't know the specs on other heads but the Edelbrock Perf/RPM heads have the exact install height and spring pressures for that cam. It requires 1.800 install height and 120 lbs seat pressure with 320 lbs @ .500.
Yes the engine is a 1974 Chevy, it's the stock engine. So I'm assuming the block will need to be bored to fit .30 pistons. That should put me at 10.0 to 10.4 compression ratio. That isn't bad is it? Would that require Super Unleaded?

I'm looking for the loping idle, should I look for a different cam?

All this makes my head hurt.

What Iron Eagle heads should I get? I'm thinking Iron Eagle DRT-10121111 Intake Runner 180cc Combustion Chamber 64cc Valve Size 2.02/1.60 Spring Size 1.250S.
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Old 12-31-2005, 04:47 PM
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Cam button; A cam button is installed between the cam and the timing cover. Flat tappet cams have an incline ground into the lobe which makes the lifter push it back to the rear of the engine. Rollers do not have the incline so the roller sits flat on the cam. So the cam can walk back and forth. The cam button holds the cam towards the rear of the block.

Roller cams use a different profile. The cam ramp causes the valves to open and close very quickly so they do not require as much duration to get the same flow as a flat tappet. The duration and centerline causes the loppy idle. Generally the more loppy, the less vacuum, the less throttle response at low rpm especially with a large runner.

The Airgap has a 160 cc runner. You will require a Victor Jr for larger port heads. You will need a 4" cowl hood to fit the heighth.

Compression will be 10.3 with a 64cc head and 11.1 with a 58cc head. You will require premium fuel regardless.

If you want loppy idle I suggest the Crane 302H06 flat tappet cam. .500 lift, 302 duration, 108 deg centerline. It will shake the car apart but you will lose alot of HP as opposed to a roller.
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Last edited by bracketeer; 12-31-2005 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:21 PM
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I think I want to setup my Chevy 350 like this

What do you think about these parts:

Comp Cam 280HR10 Magnum Roller Kit CCA-K12-430-8

Edelbrock Victor JR. EDL-77589
Combustion Chamber: 64cc
Int/Exh Runner: 215cc/85cc
Int/Exh Valve: 2.08"/1.60"
Max Valve Lift: .650"
Price: $1359.00

Edelbrock Air-Gap Intake EDL-7501 (Should I get Polished?)

I'm guessing you guys will tell me that I can't use my Edelbrock 600 CFM Carb. If I can't should I go with a Holley Model 4150 supercharger carburetor PN HLY-0-4779S?

Last edited by bccsrc; 12-31-2005 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:06 PM
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64cc heads? i hope you have dish pistons or something in order to run a s/c

215cc intake runners? i thaught you were building a street engine

man that thing will pass everything but a gas station

J
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse01
64cc heads? i hope you have dish pistons or something in order to run a s/c

215cc intake runners? i thaught you were building a street engine

man that thing will pass everything but a gas station

J
What do you mean S/C?

Ok your right. That is over kill. How about Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, they are 170cc/60cc int/exh.... That would match the Intake of 160cc intake runner.


Last edited by bccsrc; 12-31-2005 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:28 PM
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man your as green as i was when i 1st joined

s/c = supercharger

i'm not really a head expert for carb engines, maybe someone else who knows a bit more than i do will chime in here and point you in the righ direction

J
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:51 PM
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I went with dart pro 1 heads with 2.02 1.6 valves, 200 cc intake runners and 64 cc chambers,
.030 over 350 4 bolt block
speed pro forged flat top pistons,
stock forged crank,
forged eagle I beam rods,
steel main caps,
the air gap intake,
demon 650 vac. sec. carb,
2600 stall,
3.5:1 gears,
comp 268 extreme energy cam,
granted the forged stuff and steel mains are over kill for what your building but the thing would roast the 295/50/15's off and was still quick.
I think if you want more low end go with a bit smaller runner heads, if you go with aluminum heads you could get away with higher compression on lower octane gas, 10:1 is 91 octane territory, at least for iron heads, you could probably get away with 89 on aluminum but Ive never tried it. have fun.
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Old 12-31-2005, 10:55 PM
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http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

These combos might be helpful info.
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Old 01-01-2006, 02:35 PM
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To be honest, I think you need to find yourself a good rebuildable engine and put together a mild engine using mostly stock parts just so you can get familiar with how an engine works. Save all of the good stuff for another engine that you can put together on the side. Dont get me wrong, it is good to ask questions but maybe you should start with the basics first. You cant just throw a lot of expensive parts in an engine and call it good. Also there are some good, informative, books that can help you out a lot. If you have a Summit catalog you should thumb through the "books" section and find yourself a few books to read to help you get an idea. You can usually find the same books at a local parts store and perhaps even your local library.


Or get yourself a crate engine and be done with it....

Good luck.

Also, keep in mind that the pistons you linked to above are for 4.00" bore. It's likely that any engine you put together will probably be overbored at least .030" and you'll want to order pistons accordingly.

Last edited by Blazin72; 01-01-2006 at 02:48 PM.
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