[F-BIRD'88]

when you correct the balancer for true TDC using a piston stop you can also mark the balance at 36deg BTDC
that is exactly 1/10th the way around the balancer from TDC.

what distributor? MSD read the instructins it easy.
GM HEI is easy too. but differnt

some advance timing lights get all wacked by a MSD spark box.
marking the balancer at 36deg allows you to verify the advance light is accurate.
if its a old stock balancer a slipped outer ring is suspect. if thats the case replace it as a slipped outer ring is soon going to come
unglued and it ain't pretty.

Aftermarket timing tabs are always out f wack. There are three different balancers/timing tab locations for TDC.
and six different way you can mismatch that.

You cannot set the timing or tune untill the TDC pointer is accurate.

A 750 carb always makes more ower than a 600. but any all carbs will need spcific setup. Once set up the 600 will run fine.

[Mrziggy4]

The distributor is a gm hei.

So if I mark it at 36 degrees btdc what do I use as a guide to know where I'm putting my mark? Would it be the marking tabs?

Basically would my line be at 36 degrees according to what the tab show 36 to be?

I just to a look at it and the tab only goes up to 16 degrees? So how am I'm checking for 36.

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by Mrziggy4

The distributor is a gm hei.

So if I mark it at 36 degrees btdc what do I use as a guide to know where I'm putting my mark? Would it be the marking tabs?

Basically would my line be at 36 degrees according to what the tab show 36 to be?

I just to a look at it and the tab only goes up to 16 degrees? So how am I'm checking for 36.

Dude get a clue mark the balancer at 36deg or buy and install a timing tape.

GM HEI


How many million more times do I have to repost this picture

[F-BIRD'88]

a circle is 360 degrees. 36deg is 1/10th that.
therefore 36deg from TDC on the balancer is 1/10th then way around the circumfrence... figure it out.
grade 8 math... google it.

[Mrziggy4]

Ok thank you

[F-BIRD'88]

read my post #3 here
initial and total timing

[Choctaw Bob]

I had the same problem with my T-Bucket that I bought. It has 2 new Edelbrocks on a tunnel ram on a BBC.
You can download a carb tuning manual from Edelbrock.
That's a pretty big cam for the rest of your combonation as others have brought up. I think I would start with a vacuum gage and check to see how much vacuum the engine is pulling. Both your carb and distributor works on vacuum and the big cam doesn't put out much. As those carbs come from the box they need around 12 inches of vacuum to seat the rods against the springs. If vacuum is bouncing around at idle, you should be getting over rich mixture at idle. Edelbrock sells spring kits to adjust these.
Others have suggested changing to a Holley or Demon type carb. They still have power valve issues but they are easier for some to deal with. The Edelbrock can be tuned to be reliable but it may take a cam change to make it work. This might be the best solution. Something like the old 350 HP 327 has a bit of a thump to it and still is a lot easier to live with on the street.
I had to change the cam on mine to make it livable on the street.