Originally Posted by Daimyo68
Checked for possible vapor locking, but no issue found. Fuel is always available at a steady rate.
Ok, here's what I did for possibly the 3rd or 4th time:
Check for vacuum leaks - All ok. If I cover the carb, I can stall the motor. I've capped off all 4 ports on the carb. I've sprayed around the carb base and intake with no rise in rpms.
Fuel Pressure checked and adjusted to 5.5psi in spec with Edelbrock requirments.
Ignition system - All power and grounds checked with DVOM, all ok.
-Timing - set at 12* BTDC (no vacuum advance) Total of 38* with vacuum and mechanical adv.
-Confirmed Timing mark against #1 TDC using piston stop - Ok
-Confirmed Distributor installed at correct clock position
Alternator - Charging at acceptable level (13-14v loaded).
Carburetor/s - Adjusted to manufacturer spec on Idle Circuits using DVOM and Vacuum Gauge
Valve Train - Adjusted valves at operating temperature, while running.
I'm really at a loss here now. I've checked checked and rechecked everything.
We are going to put the dual quads back on and see if anything has changed. It's possible that the carb and manifold he got from his brother had an issue that his brother didn't own up to, but weird that with either setup, we have the same condition.
Again, it's 2 issues. We are tackling the idle/stall issue right now. Once we have that solved, we will move onto the possible converter issue. It makes no sense to try and figure that one out if we can get the car idling properly.
Issue #1 - Car will idle when cool. We can get it to idle decent and then it will just slowly stall itself out. No dieseling/pinging when it stalls.
- One thing to add is that it happens more often as the car reaches operating temps.
Issue #2 - When put into drive, the car bangs into gear, almost as if the converter is in a lockup state (1:1)
To eliminate the existing wiring and switch, remove the wire from the coil "+" side so there is no wiring connected from the wiring harness to the coil. Tape the end so it cannot short.
Hot wire the coil by running a jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal to the coil "+" terminal. If you use a resistor wire or ballast resistor, add a ballast resistor to the jumper wire (NOT the same one on it now)- it should still start fine even w/the current reduced unless the plugs or secondary ignition is bad- which is sounds like will not be the case, considering the previous work and checking you've done.
Start the engine and see what the results are. Remember the key will not work- you will need to disconnect the jumper to shut the engine off.