Chevy 350 T-Bucket, stalling
Hello all, glad I came across the forums here. I've read through several posts to find a solution to my issue, but at wits end now.
--When put into gear, rpms drop to ~650, all seems fine, drive car to first stop sign/light, it stalls. Car will sometimes restart without issue, but stalls as soon as its put into gear.
--Same as above, but will not restart sometimes.
--With both issues, seems to only be after the car has started to warm up.
I have confirmed as much as possible: Timing, Vacuum/leaks, air/fuel adjustment, fuel pressure, voltage/s to all components (dist, ign, etc), spark plugs, wires, running temps, oil press.
The car originally had dual quads, and I always felt it was overkill, so I swapped them out for a single carb setup, but still have the same identical issue.
We have owned to vehicle for 8 years, driven when weather permits. The problem showed up about a year ago, and was inconsistent until the end of last summer. I have been trying to solve it since then.
I'm leaning towards a possible trans/conveter problem, as it bangs into gear now from nuetral to drive or reverse. But even if there is a trans issue, that doesn't explain the no re-start issue.
1923 Ford T-Bucket
Chevy 350, .040 overbore
Unknown Cam specs (original build sheet only says "High Performance Cam to match Dual Quads).
Turbo 400 Trans with 2800 stall speed converter
373 10bolt Posi Rear
Hope to get some ideas on where to go next! Thanks
Sure sounds like a vacuum leak, possibly the vac line off the trans vac modulator? Or a cracked vacuum hose, they can be hard to spot without a pump.
Thats what I was thinking at the first onset of the idling issue.
I have gone to the point of disconnecting all vacuum lines and plugging off as needed, with no change in the way it acts.
Went through everything again concerning the idle/stall issue. Found the carb mixture needed to be adjusted. Got that set to edelbrock specs, car was idling great, put it in drive, idle was a little low, made it 10 feet car stalled. Restart - now has poor idle again, and hard starting.
I'm starting to think the distributor may be the culprit. Its a points distributor, new points, condensor, mechanical advance springs are ok.
I'm going to recheck power and grounds again and alternator output.
Just some more info:
Replaced distributor with electronic distributor... no change, same issue.
You have a defective ignition key switch or a problem at the starter solenoid.
engine Ground fault
And the Cool Street Rod Gods/Police want you to reinstall the dual quad.
You will be harassed with mysterious car issues until you do.
Rest assured, since the changing of the manifold and carb proved to not fix anything, the quads are going back on once this is figured out.
Here's a picture of the car if anyones interested:
check for possible vapor lock.
Checked for possible vapor locking, but no issue found. Fuel is always available at a steady rate.
Ok, here's what I did for possibly the 3rd or 4th time:
Check for vacuum leaks - All ok. If I cover the carb, I can stall the motor. I've capped off all 4 ports on the carb. I've sprayed around the carb base and intake with no rise in rpms.
Fuel Pressure checked and adjusted to 5.5psi in spec with Edelbrock requirments.
Ignition system - All power and grounds checked with DVOM, all ok.
-Timing - set at 12* BTDC (no vacuum advance) Total of 38* with vacuum and mechanical adv.
-Confirmed Timing mark against #1 TDC using piston stop - Ok
-Confirmed Distributor installed at correct clock position
Alternator - Charging at acceptable level (13-14v loaded).
Carburetor/s - Adjusted to manufacturer spec on Idle Circuits using DVOM and Vacuum Gauge
Valve Train - Adjusted valves at operating temperature, while running.
I'm really at a loss here now. I've checked checked and rechecked everything.
We are going to put the dual quads back on and see if anything has changed. It's possible that the carb and manifold he got from his brother had an issue that his brother didn't own up to, but weird that with either setup, we have the same condition.
Again, it's 2 issues. We are tackling the idle/stall issue right now. Once we have that solved, we will move onto the possible converter issue. It makes no sense to try and figure that one out if we can get the car idling properly.
Issue #1 - Car will idle when cool. We can get it to idle decent and then it will just slowly stall itself out. No dieseling/pinging when it stalls.
- One thing to add is that it happens more often as the car reaches operating temps.
Issue #2 - When put into drive, the car bangs into gear, almost as if the converter is in a lockup state (1:1)
Hot wire the coil by running a jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal to the coil "+" terminal. If you use a resistor wire or ballast resistor, add a ballast resistor to the jumper wire (NOT the same one on it now)- it should still start fine even w/the current reduced unless the plugs or secondary ignition is bad- which is sounds like will not be the case, considering the previous work and checking you've done.
Start the engine and see what the results are. Remember the key will not work- you will need to disconnect the jumper to shut the engine off.
How many neighbors did you terrorize by moving their cars with this method?
This is also why its laughable to watch a movie and see some doofus fiddling around under the dash and the car mystically starts.
Off topic warning
OT- We didn't have unlimited storage space so as the 'yard filled up, the good parts were removed from the vehicles that had been there the longest or had been picked over, etc.
Then the stripped out hulks were burned down w/a cup of gas through the window (can you imagine doing that today?:evil:), shoved onto a crusher that would come by when needed, then loaded onto flatbeds and hauled away. IIRC we got about $12/per back then.
There used to be big puddles of shiny silver body lead left on the ground that would cook out of the body seams that I'd find and put into the scrap drum. I'd also cut the wiring looms out of them before torching; that was mine to burn down and take in for scrap. Kind of like earning a tip. The 6V cars actually had some weight to the looms...
still sounds like a fuel issue. you can have fuel pressure but no flow. check routing of fuel line. vapor lock is simply heat creating air bubbles in fuel line. unhook fuel line and you will have flow. buubles will disapate as line cools.
Ok, tried bypassing the ignition switch as recommended above, still the same issue.
Gas tank is almost empty. We are going to put in gas that has no Ethenol content and see if that makes a difference.
We are also going to run a hose from the can to the pump to bypass the existing lines that have always been in the same location. It would be strange that we would get vapor lock now without it ever being an issue in the past. The car was here in Florida for 4 years without issue, then in Georgia for 2 years and now back here in FL. The idling issue only showed up after coming back to Florida.
The Gas didn't make any difference.
Did a compression test, 148-150psi across the board.
Any other ideas?
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