[ChevroletSS]

Oh its fine. I actually cant believe how this setup has the hp climb that good, and high TQ numbers low in the rpm range. Should be a bad a s s motor. Its crazy how the same spec parts but different brands will make different numbers. Thats why its always important to get quality parts. It took me a while to figure that out.

Oh and techinspector showed me the dyno sheet. Its at AFR's website, they have a few different dyno combos on their.

[ap72]

Originally Posted by ChevroletSS

Oh its fine. I actually cant believe how this setup has the hp climb that good, and high TQ numbers low in the rpm range. Should be a bad a s s motor. Its crazy how the same spec parts but different brands will make different numbers. Thats why its always important to get quality parts. It took me a while to figure that out.

Oh and techinspector showed me the dyno sheet. Its at AFR's website, they have a few different dyno combos on their.

Keep in mind that those dynos done by advertisers may or may not be accurate. And even if they are accurate they don't tell the whole story, I'm sure they used every advantage they could to post a dyno number to advertise their heads. Probably a Dart block withe excellent machine and assembly work, light weight rotating assembly, top of the line oiling, rings, and bearings, cam was indexed on a dyno, perfect manifold and head alignment, etc. There are a LOT of little things that can add up to big power.

If your combo ends up 50hp shy of theirs don't get too upset, it's still a respectable number.

[ChevroletSS]

If it has 50 less no biggie. Just knowing I got good parts capable of making those numbers are good for me. I dont even have a dyno anyway so it not like Ill actually know which sucks and I dont know anyone who has one

[ap72]

Originally Posted by ChevroletSS

If it has 50 less no biggie. Just knowing I got good parts capable of making those numbers are good for me. I dont even have a dyno anyway so it not like Ill actually know which sucks and I dont know anyone who has one

the AFR 195's are an excellent street head. Personally I wouldn't buy any smaller head though. With those heads if you don't break 400hp you must be missing 2 pistons.

The most important thing is sticking with a plan and find a good cam. If this is a really important build please find a boutique cam grinder and pay the little extra for a custom cam. Only a few degrees here or there can be a 30hp+ difference. A custom carb is also worth a lot on the street and may cost twice as much as a out of the box option, just beware.

[ChevroletSS]

I found a forged crank on jegs that has a 4.000 strokefor a 350. I thought the longest stroke u could get for a 350 was 3.75. Whats the most ammount of cubes you can get out of a 350 without sacrificing anything.

[ap72]

Originally Posted by ChevroletSS

I found a forged crank on jegs that has a 4.000 strokefor a 350. I thought the longest stroke u could get for a 350 was 3.75. Whats the most ammount of cubes you can get out of a 350 without sacrificing anything.

You sacrifice a lot with a 4" stroke. a 4" stroke is going to need 6" rods, which leaves you a 1.00" compression height- very tight, though it can be ran. The other issue is that you need to clearance the block and many blocks will leak like a sieve after that much grinding.

A 383 or even a 350 can be built into very stout street engines. If you had plenty of cash to through around and an aftermarket block and huge heads etc. then going for max cubes may be a consideration but for your mild built keep it simple and cost effective.

To be honest, a plain old 350 running with some kind of forced induction will give you the most torque/power for the least cost. You may want to consider that option.

[ChevroletSS]

Im gonna go with the 383. Thanks for the input tho. Pretty much what you are saying is that a stock 350 with a supercharger is the way to go to be cost affective. Can that setup make 500 HP

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by ChevroletSS

Im gonna go with the 383. Thanks for the input tho. Pretty much what you are saying is that a stock 350 with a supercharger is the way to go to be cost affective. Can that setup make 500 HP

Turbos are cheaper than super charger the cost of the super charger is alot more than rebuilt turbos from garret.

Many 383 bust the 500 mark. With boost alot more is possible. Also can be smoother on the street with mild turbos and ok compression low boost build. I personnaly like 9:1 with 6 psi boost for street motors. Good efi and you could dump a lot more boost on it but 6 will fry the tire and 9:1 compression pretty much erases any turbo lag since the stock engine without boost is plenty strong. Even if the turbos are slow it still jumps when you punch it.

Even without turbos 383 can push 500 with good and proper build. 400 na will be the cheapest build. You can hit this number with little money invested. 100 hp more really ups the cost. Also effects the street ability with the engine.

500 na with 383 rpm air gap, afr or trick flow 210cc heads, 10:1 - 11:1 compresion and rotating assembly built to run 6500 rpm. I think the 294s from comp will get you there but some better rollers out there will make it alot happier on the street.

406 or 426 cubes i think the crank makes. But with tall deck blocks you can get 454 or more cubes from a small block tall deck block. You can also sleeve the stock block but now a days dart blocks are pretty cheap compared to all the issues with sleeved small block.

[1Gary]

The balancing act is the same with a blown engine as it is with a increase in compression in terms of a DCR.And the law of physics still applies where a smaller c.i. will have a torque curve higher in the RPM range.

The options of aftermarket blocks goes many steps beyond just a SHP. Raised cam locations,BBC cam bearings,etc.$$$$$.

I think like what you have a clear plan,to stick to that and work on gathering that parts for that is in your best interests.Some have turbo's,blowers,nitrous,and let them do what they will.Your plan is your combo.

[ChevroletSS]

My plan for this build is to stick with my parts list stated earlier. I was curious about the turbo/supercharger ordeal. Also I did find a few 400 blocks for pretty sheap supposed to be in good condition. Im gonna snatch them up. Hard to find them anymore.

[1Gary]

I would insist on mag'ing them before any money changes hands.And nothing already bored without matching pistons and nothing bored .060 already.

[ap72]

Originally Posted by ChevroletSS

My plan for this build is to stick with my parts list stated earlier. I was curious about the turbo/supercharger ordeal. Also I did find a few 400 blocks for pretty sheap supposed to be in good condition. Im gonna snatch them up. Hard to find them anymore.

A bone stock 350 with 10psi or so boost and a mild cam upgrade will make 500hp all day long. Turbo or supercharger will work, the important thing is properly matching them to your combo.

And while an NA engine can make 500hp it can't come close to making the low RPM power a boosted engine can given roughly equal displacements.


As noted though, a 400hp NA engine is the cheapest option.

[1Gary]

I get just shy of 500lbs of torque@3000 to 3500 N/A

[ChevroletSS]

Is it possible to take any main caps from a 350 and line hone them to work an a 350 block. Thre reason I ask is because the 350 block I had didnt have main caps and my machinist said he had plenty. He said he went threw all of them and couldnt find any close enough and wouldn be able to line hone it. So I told hime I have another block Ill bring up. It doesnt make sense to me that you can bye brand new main caps for a block and get them line honed to work but you cant take used main caps and make them work.

[ap72]

Originally Posted by ChevroletSS

Is it possible to take any main caps from a 350 and line hone them to work an a 350 block. Thre reason I ask is because the 350 block I had didnt have main caps and my machinist said he had plenty. He said he went threw all of them and couldnt find any close enough and wouldn be able to line hone it. So I told hime I have another block Ill bring up. It doesnt make sense to me that you can bye brand new main caps for a block and get them line honed to work but you cant take used main caps and make them work.

your mains may have been that fubared from the get go. If you're going to pay to line hone it though you may as well step up to splayed mains.