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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2013, 11:26 AM
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Chevy 383 Roller Build (cont.....)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Can anyone help me out with what pickup I should use with this oil pan.


Thanks for the help


JEGS Performance Products 50223 JEGS Street & Strip Oil Pans
Did you read that Melling oil pump and pickups will not work with that pan. You will have to buy Jegs brand HV oil pump 555-23502, adjustable street/strip/race applications 555-23501, std oil pump 555-23500. Std. pickup 555-50240, HV pickup 555-50241. Gasket kit 555-210094. GOTCHA!!!

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2013, 08:32 PM
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Ok guys whats the rod and main bearing clearences supposed to be. I was told the mains are between .0015 and .0030. Never could find out about the rod bearings.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2013, 09:34 PM
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I went with Moroso for my pan, pump, and pickup. Pump is a Melling big block pump. It takes a little more power to turn, but it is WAY smoother than the small block pump. Just be sure to get the shorter distributor/pump rod, as the big block pump's shaft is taller.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Ok guys whats the rod and main bearing clearences supposed to be. I was told the mains are between .0015 and .0030. Never could find out about the rod bearings.
There are as you know a number of variables involved with this.Not that it matters much,but who's crank did you buy??. Just a question in ref to machining tolerances. Take nothing for granted.Measure everything.What does the crank manufacture tell you the clearances should be given your application??. Sometimes given who's crank you bought you find you have to use two different bearing haft's of different sizes to set the clearance's you want.
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Ok guys whats the rod and main bearing clearences supposed to be. I was told the mains are between .0015 and .0030. Never could find out about the rod bearings.
SBC assembly spec

Bottom of page. As said, double check with manufactures.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 10:55 AM
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All of you skeptics make valid points which all boil down to this: You have to know what you're doing. I do. I've said my peace, so I'm done here. Do what ever you want. Bye.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:22 PM
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All of you skeptics make valid points which all boil down to this: You have to know what you're doing. I do. I've said my peace, so I'm done here. Do what ever you want. Bye.
I don't understand Barry.If I said something that offended you,it was not intentional.I will say this through.All oil pumps have to be taken apart and checked for crap inside them.You'll be surprised what you find.

In terms of bearings,you want to get ones that have a high embedment(sp) rating.Kings bearings are extremely round,good materials,and have that high embedment rating.They cost more,but I think they are worth it.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
I don't understand Barry.If I said something that offended you,it was not intentional.I will say this through.All oil pumps have to be taken apart and checked for crap inside them.You'll be surprised what you find.

In terms of bearings,you want to get ones that have a high embedment(sp) rating.Kings bearings are extremely round,good materials,and have that high embedment rating.They cost more,but I think they are worth it.
I think Barry got his threads crossed and was referring to the thread on Compression and Quench. Good debate on that one.

11:1 on pump gas or add more gasket??
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 10:16 PM
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As far as oil pumps go, I always take them apart before brazing the pickup to the pump. Also, I take the spring out and replace it with the Corvette spring. I get 60 psi at hot idle and no fluctuation (because of the big block pump having more flutes on the gears). The big block pump also is equal to the small block high volume pump.
As far as bearings, I use Clevite 77 on a hardened, stock (not reground), or nitrided crank. I use aluminum bearings on a crank that has been ground and not re-hardened or nitrided.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2013, 08:26 AM
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Barry.We have had a boat load of combo's over the yrs.The reason why is we have a racing operation turn into a business where we where racing a 9.90 car for a yr and flip selling them. before this came to past we had a 69 Camero that we ran with BBC's in it.We went through hard times with that having 5 different BBC engines in the car in 4 weeks.All of them damaged beyond repair.We sold everything,car,trailer,parts,everything except the tools and seat out from active racing for two yrs.During that time we still,well really developed,a trade in selling parts and realized a market for selling the race cars.But those hard times almost ended active racing for us.

When we came back on line with a race program we still feeling the sting from BBC's started back using SBC's.

Here my point.All those engines and up to last season's BBC 632 and the yr before back-up 565 BBC,all we used was Kings bearings without a single failure. It is that company that we used for all the hard core race engines we have built for people over the yrs as well.It's for that reason I have such a strong endorsement for that company. Also we have won a national and a whole bunch of track and regional events with them doing hot laps in the finals.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:24 AM
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Hi, It seems that some posts got sent to my email and got lost on this site. I had asked somebody's age (to determine their experience) and they replied that they were 9 years older than I.

.
Replying now to another post:
I have nothing against King Bearings. I just have no personal experience with them. I went with the suggestion in "How to Hotrod Small Block Chevys" back in the early 70's. That's how I cam to use Clevite 77 bearings.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425 View Post
As far as oil pumps go, I always take them apart before brazing the pickup to the pump. Also, I take the spring out and replace it with the Corvette spring. I get 60 psi at hot idle and no fluctuation (because of the big block pump having more flutes on the gears). The big block pump also is equal to the small block high volume pump.
As far as bearings, I use Clevite 77 on a hardened, stock (not reground), or nitrided crank. I use aluminum bearings on a crank that has been ground and not re-hardened or nitrided.
Glad to see someone besides me likes to have decent hot idle oil pressure. I've been getting getting burned at the stake for using HV oil pumps, but it really makes a difference in bearing wear, especially when you'll be running it at low rpm (like a street car).

I also use King bearings exclusively now, nothing against Clevite, I just think King is better.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2013, 11:05 AM
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Small Block Chevys seem to run okay as long as they have 40 psi at hot idle. I had a machinist make a mistake on a crank once, and the hot idle was only 25. It went downhill little by little, and by the end of the month only had 10 psi at hot idle. I gave the machinist Hell over that and also gave him some not-so-good PR. Some speed shops took my word for it and took their business elsewhere after that.
.
Small Block Mopars like higher oil pressure, such as 60-80 psi at hot idle. It is because of the way the oil passages route inside the block. There is a fix that involves putting an oil bypass line in the valley, but I don't like doing that. If anything breaks, you can't see it until the engine goes south on you. I still remember the external copper top end oil line on the old "Y" block Fords that would work harden and break. Oil went everywhere. What a Mickey-Mouse outfit that was. "Have you driven a Ford lately?" lol
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2013, 08:18 PM
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oil pressure at idle,,,

Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425 View Post
Small Block Chevys seem to run okay as long as they have 40 psi at hot idle. I had a machinist make a mistake on a crank once, and the hot idle was only 25. It went downhill little by little, and by the end of the month only had 10 psi at hot idle. I gave the machinist Hell over that and also gave him some not-so-good PR. Some speed shops took my word for it and took their business elsewhere after that.
.
Small Block Mopars like higher oil pressure, such as 60-80 psi at hot idle. It is because of the way the oil passages route inside the block. There is a fix that involves putting an oil bypass line in the valley, but I don't like doing that. If anything breaks, you can't see it until the engine goes south on you. I still remember the external copper top end oil line on the old "Y" block Fords that would work harden and break. Oil went everywhere. What a Mickey-Mouse outfit that was. "Have you driven a Ford lately?" lol
how is that possible? I would think that on a test fit that the crank was measured? The mistake on the crank ,,,how did that get missed by the guy assembling?
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2013, 07:25 PM
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Gotta question for ya guys... I was looking to get the AFR 195cc street heads but seen that jegs and edelbrock have their own 195cc heads with 64 cc at a lower price. The way I see it if they all have the same specs will they all give me the same results. If I can get a pair a little cheaper I will as long as I get the same result but not sacrificing quality taking in consideration that jegs and edelbrock are good brand names and have a good reputation.

Thanks guys for the help..
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