"chevy 383 w/5.700" rod" means it suppose to come w/ rods right? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:26 PM
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"chevy 383 w/5.700" rod" means it suppose to come w/ rods right?

hey again everybody,

I just got home & was checking out my new pistons that came in today.
I bought them off of "ebay" at cnc. motor sports the add says K B .030 chevy 383 w/ 5.700" rod then it goes on to say what kinda pistons & blah blah blah

anyways fellas theres not a rod in the box. it's just pistons by there self
i thaught maybe since this box was slap full w 8 piston heads in it maybe the rods where shipped in a seperate box.
I then looked at the box & on the sticker it has my address, tracking #, there address, weight, and right next to the weight it says box "1 of 1" so i guess theres not another box on the way

But maybe i'm wrong, the way it's advertised don't it seem like they come w/ rods?

i'm about to go e-mail 'em right now, but i wanted your guy's oponion

thanx again

jesse

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Old 04-13-2005, 04:35 PM
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it means its for a 383 using 5.7" rods...however I can see where it could be misleading..very misleading really. it also says .030 Chevy 383....um...um a 383 is a .030 over 350 block using a 400 crank....otherwise it wouldnt be a 383
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:38 PM
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Can you link to the exact page you got it from. What did it say exactly. Also what did the description say. Did they give you a UPS tracking # to follow the package? Im sure they will help clear things I have talked to them before and they seem to be very nice people.

Chris
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:03 PM
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figured it out thanx anyways guys

ya, i just talked to em they said the same thing stepside 454 said that there for a 383 w/ existing 5.700" rods.
thats ok, i already picked out different rods that i wanted anyway. i was just wondering why the didn't have rods w/ them
good thing it wasn't something more serious. I guess i better pay closer attention next time. huh?

thanx anyways guys

Jesse
p.s have any of ya built your own 383 stroker? I know thats a dumb question , but i need a little bit of advice on rod bolts
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Old 04-13-2005, 09:13 PM
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Generally when you buy a set of pistons it always says chevy so and so w/(whatever length) rod. Which means you need to use a 5.7" rod with those pistons. Although it does sound like they would be included they are not. I know you already found out but i figured i would chime in. theres a difference in where the wrist pin is cut into the piston if you go with a 6" over a 5.7 or whatever rod. You may know that but maybe not.
What kind of rod bolt question do you have? I've built a 383 and watched more than i can remember. I can't really think of anything that would be a problem with rod bolts to answer you question right now except, when you buy rods they come with instructions, just follow those (especially about the initial tightening and stretching of the bolts) and you should be ok. Also don't forget to clearence the rods that will come in contact with the cam (if you plan on using a big cam). I forget exactly which ones do but I *think* 4 of them will come in contact with the cam.
I can't think of anything else I can throw out right now. I'm trying to answer for ya now b/c sometimes i forget where i post and maynot get a chance to check the site in a few days. Anyhow, good luck with the build!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse01
ya, i just talked to em they said the same thing stepside 454 said that there for a 383 w/ existing 5.700" rods.
thats ok, i already picked out different rods that i wanted anyway. i was just wondering why the didn't have rods w/ them
good thing it wasn't something more serious. I guess i better pay closer attention next time. huh?

thanx anyways guys

Jesse
p.s have any of ya built your own 383 stroker? I know thats a dumb question , but i need a little bit of advice on rod bolts
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Old 04-13-2005, 09:23 PM
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When you buy the rods for your stroker it would be wise to buy the type that are already clearanced or "profiled" to clear the cam. If not you may have to run a small base circle cam. I have built several 383's. The stock type rods cause the most clearance issues (pan rail and cam).

Any decent set of aftermarket rods should have good bolts (ARP, Milodon, etc..).

One word of caution for those new to E-bay, always ask detailed questions if you have any doubt at all. There are some very misleading auctions out there and they will get you if you're not careful.

Royce
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Old 04-13-2005, 10:45 PM
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thanx, you guys are a really big help

first "Richot3T" you crack me up man, the way you throw everthing you can remember out there now incase you forget were you post
sounds like you might of smoked too much of that stuff back in your day J/K

anyway my question about the "rod bolts"
Like i said i've already been looking at connecting rods before my pistons even arrived. I found this set by "Scat" there I-beam rods w/ 7/16" bolt instead of the normal 3/8" bolt, but the ad says that there already profiled for stroker applications.
Is that possible? can a connecting rod be profiled for a stroker application w/a larger 7/16 bolt w/o hitting the cam?

I know building a stroker motor i'm gonna have clearance issues to begin with, but even though these rods are supposably profiled already to fit my application,using the bigger 7/16" bolt won't hit my cam or anything?
or should i just stick w/the regular ARP 3/8" rod bolt?

thanx fellas, you guys have been a big help
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Old 04-14-2005, 01:14 PM
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haha nah no smoking for me, just get busy sometimes and have no idea where I went to post what. The main problem I have is looking at the pm box.. on another board I goto sometimes I happened to see something bold on the top of the screen when I scrolled down and I happened to have like 6 PM's. Go figure! Prolly should set up to remind me when i have them or something but I hate things that pop up in my way!

To get to your question now, I've never really bought any rods that specifically said "profiled for stroker clearance" b/c I made them clear myself. They may have said it they may not have. But for your info The part of the rod that hits is the bottom corner of the rod (closest to the cam of course), right where it starts out to form the cap. Not much material has to be taken off to get the proper clearance so I'm sure when they "profile" them the rod has a different shape there. I'm not sure though, I hadn't compared them and don't build them enough to have a chance to . That maynot be very clear but you should see it when you put it together. Main thing to remember when building any stroker motor is to always check. It may say it will clear but it may not. No sense in spending a lot of money on a motor only to end up in pieces b/c something wasnt checked.
Oh and depending on what you wanna use your motor for a 3/8 rod bolt will more than likely do everything you need. I've used them in street motors with good success.

The stock type rods cause the most clearance issues (pan rail and cam).
Do the profiled ones really clear the pan rail also? If so thats cool, takes a little more grinding out of the equation. I think the first one I ever built I did my grinding and washed it up only to find out I had more grinding to do back there also.
Also agree with your statement about ebay (camaroman), great deals can be found but money can also be lost. Its crappy and unless they live/work right around the corner you can't go smash their stuff very easily to get your satisfaction, err I mean money back


Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse01
first "Richot3T" you crack me up man, the way you throw everthing you can remember out there now incase you forget were you post
sounds like you might of smoked too much of that stuff back in your day J/K

anyway my question about the "rod bolts"
Like i said i've already been looking at connecting rods before my pistons even arrived. I found this set by "Scat" there I-beam rods w/ 7/16" bolt instead of the normal 3/8" bolt, but the ad says that there already profiled for stroker applications.
Is that possible? can a connecting rod be profiled for a stroker application w/a larger 7/16 bolt w/o hitting the cam?

I know building a stroker motor i'm gonna have clearance issues to begin with, but even though these rods are supposably profiled already to fit my application,using the bigger 7/16" bolt won't hit my cam or anything?
or should i just stick w/the regular ARP 3/8" rod bolt?

thanx fellas, you guys have been a big help
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Old 04-14-2005, 02:08 PM
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The profiled rods have more cam clearance. You will still in most cases have to gring a bit on the block/pan rail area. I have heard of some guys that had blocks that needed no grinding at all. Everyone I have ever built needed a little clearancing near the pan rail and lower cylinder area. I have profiled rods in my 388 and I run a regular base circle cam with no clearance issues.

If you stack a stock rod on a cap screw or profiled rod you will see the top side is where the problem is. The cap screw style rods don't have a bolt head on top to cause problems, they also don't have as large a head on the screw/bolt and no stud/threads protruding through the but like a stock style rod. When you are talking fractions of an inch every little thing helps.

I have not personally tried the I beam rods so I don't know what issues you may have. I have used both stock style and H-beam.

Royce
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Old 04-14-2005, 02:44 PM
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Yea thats generally everywhere I've been. Lower cylinder, pan rail, and cam area. I've also had some contact on the windage tray on a Lt1 motor too. It didn't hit much, sort of scraped but I'm sure it would have made a nice noise had I not seen it.
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