[sirron]

Hi, I read your post and I joined to hopefully help. I looked in an old Motor's truck manual. The part in the center is called a " axle shaft spacer(or thrust block) " thats what the book called it. You will be required to remove the block to get at the "c-washers"off of the ends of the axles From the black&white pics the block should slide off the pinion shaft.It sounds like it's stuck, what the others have said (welded/gauling). When it goes back together the book said "Select axle shaft spacer to give a free fit to .014" max clearance between ends of axle shaft and spacer. There are three sizes of axle shaft spacers available to establish this clearance." Now this book was published in 1961 so I don't know if these spacers are avalable or not. You,ll need a new shaft,spider gears,lock bolt.

[66Chevelle]

Wow, thanks Sirron - that changes the game. I was under the opinion I could pull the axles by loosening bolts at the axle ends. That's exactly how I used to change pumpkins in an old Plymouth I used to have, so it made sense. I appreciate the news, although it's somewhat ... poopy ... because that increases the difficulty factor of getting this thing apart.

Spent all night tonight heli-coiling a broken water pump bolt on the Nova & getting the timing cover installed - had to drop the oil pan a little to get that cover back on. I swear, I'm the anti-King Midas lately, everything I touch turns to shizzle.

I'll update here when I next get a chance to work on the Apache, but tomorrow night I really want to get the Nova running again.

[big gear head]

I'm surprised to find out that there are c clips on the axles. I was sure that they would bolt in. Oh well, learn new stuff all the time.

[sirron]

I scanned the manual may it will help. I hope the links work. I don't know how to put in thumbnails, sorry. Norris
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[jeanlee411]

Originally Posted by junior stocker

" The pin had come out about 1/2"." Are you saying the cross shaft came out? See the hole in the end? A bolt/pin goes through a part of the carrier and through the cross shaft. The bolt/pin does occasionally break. Is this what's happened? If so, just get the remnants of the bolt/pin out, and get another one. Butch/junior stocker.

Yep, that's exactly what happened. But that retaining pin is broken in two places. Something is causing that cross shaft to rotate, and it sheared the retaining bolt where it entered the shaft & where it exited.

I have like three simultaneous projects going on, so can't devote entirely to this one, but having lots of fun getting the brake drums off. One is being a real bugger.


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[MosinNagant]

cant you lift the rear of the vehicle and hold one wheel with your foot and the other with your hand and try to wiggle the pin out.
also if im thinking correct a pin that enters one side of this assemly holds a gear to a shaft comes out and a retainer pin of smaller size holds it in place.which pin has broken? if the pin that holds the gear to shaft is stuck it is not possible to weld itself because there is oil present.if temperature got high enough to reach that of brakes to oil would boil causing fragile material to shatter.high quality materials would only soften and flex so what has probably happened is that those two pieces that pin holds, thier inner walls have bit into the pin. only bit into into it.

Question to all the guys.
what would happen to this pin if on any car traveling at a speed above 100-150 mph and clutch was cut shifter slipped into reverse clutch cut on?

would the engine survive since it spins in the same direction? im asking cause i havent any experiance with real scale cars, i took a look at the pic again and saw that there was 4 gears around that block and am puzzlled at how it all works and the design difference between what ive heard reffered to 'peg leg' and a posi rear end.

[ericnova72]

Originally Posted by MosinNagant

cant you lift the rear of the vehicle and hold one wheel with your foot and the other with your hand and try to wiggle the pin out.
also if im thinking correct a pin that enters one side of this assemly holds a gear to a shaft comes out and a retainer pin of smaller size holds it in place.which pin has broken? if the pin that holds the gear to shaft is stuck it is not possible to weld itself because there is oil present.if temperature got high enough to reach that of brakes to oil would boil causing fragile material to shatter.high quality materials would only soften and flex so what has probably happened is that those two pieces that pin holds, thier inner walls have bit into the pin. only bit into into it.

Question to all the guys.
what would happen to this pin if on any car traveling at a speed above 100-150 mph and clutch was cut shifter slipped into reverse clutch cut on?

It would likely peel teeth on the ring and pinion, or transmission, blow the driveshaft out, or split or spread the transmission case if aluminum.

Welding of the cross pin to the spider gears is common if abusing an open differential. The tire speed of the one wheel peel versus the other puts extreme speeds into the spider gear assembly, friction welding the spiders to the cross shaft. I've seen it several times on the GM 7.5" rear in Monte SS and S-10, and the Ford 7.5" in the 79-84 5.0 Mustangs.

[MosinNagant]

thanks for clearing that phenomenon up for me, i learned something. also by taking closer look at the picture, but where did the pin that broke go and which pin was the one that fused?

[66Chevelle]

The pin that got sheared into three pieces is the one that goes through the end of the pinion shaft to hold it in place.

[MosinNagant]

okay but where according to the picture did it go? explain to me like i was 5 yrs. old, im trying to learn something.

[sirron]

Here is a pic to help you understand . If this is what your question applies to http://www.explorerforum.com/photopo...5/P1000476.JPG

[66Chevelle]

Yep, that's the pin that broke. The pinion shaft was compelled to spin, and just bit that retaining pin into three pieces.