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Chevy Electical

4K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  docvette 
#1 ·
What would be the best way to install a second alternator on a chevy pickup, 350 with three batteries?Will be adding 2 more batteries in the near future. Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Does it have airconditoning? If so, remove the compressor if you can live without it, now you have a spot for it. How many AMPs are we talkin about here as well?
 
#3 ·
Is this for hydraulic pumps or some other low-speed load? You need to pay very close attention to voltage regulation and heat dissipation if you are loading hundreds of amps continuously. If you need the amps while driving at highway speeds, I have seen alternators rigged to the rear axle driven by a pulley at the pinion. If the power is needed while not moving, look into mixing up low mount left and right alt brackets. Be sure you have a good belt system as these things will take plenty of horsepower to drive!
 
#5 ·
Isolator

Doc here:pimp:

What exactly are you trying to do? Keep "multi Batteries" Charged up?

If so, why not consider a "Battery Isolator", using the system you already have, instead of a Complete Extra Charging System?

If I understand what you are going for Correctly, Go to this site and read the Article, and See if it fills the Bill...

http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/isolator.htm

This is the same system used by RV's and the like with multi battery installations.

If this is what you need , you can pick one up at CSK parts (Kragen, Checker, Autozone) For between $29 and $79 bucks..Cheaper than a whole new System.

Check here for price:
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectP...oryCode=A&TopLevelCatDesc=&SearchFor=Isolator

Doc:pimp:
========================
Flying is not dangerous;
crashing is Damn dangerous.
 
#6 ·
Hiya ppl,
Well, the problem is that anytime I turn on my stereo, the alternator starts screaming(high pitch squel). The stereo consists of 5 amps, 18 speakers, 12 disc cd changer, head unit and for power I am using 3 batteries(2 from a mack truck and 1 regular bat.) an isolater between the 2 banks of batts. As well as a capacitor.(Total watts is around 1800 watts.) That's why I was thinking about adding another charging system. ( Also putting FULL computer system with touck screen 15" monitor.) So any idea's as to why my alt. sings to me everytime I turn on my stereo? thanx's :confused:
 
#7 ·
Overtaxed

Doc here:pimp:

Is It a High Pitch wine that conforms to engine RPM's?

If so, a few things come to mind...
  • First is bad filtering from the alternator, Install a Ferrite Bead (s) on the wires or a low pass Choke filter on the wires at the alternator. Install Inductor filters at the Speakers too.
  • Grounds, Make Sure All Grounds are Tight, Proper Gauge and if Necessary, Shielded. Don't Bundle Audio and Power Wires in the same harness... this can induce noise into the audio. Get some Ground strap and Ground the hood to the firewall (these make good noise antennas if not grounded)
  • Bad Diodes at the Alternator. The Alternator has a Diode Bridge inside it to rectify the AC signal generated Into, DC Voltage/Current, A Diode can be thought of as a one way valve of sorts, allows current flow in one direction only. If one or more of these Diodes has broken down, It will allow AC to pass to a small Degree (this makes Hum, and can wipe out semi~conductor devices like your CD if bad enough!)
  • Overtaxing the Alternator.. How Many amps is the Alternator rated for? What is the TOTAL load placed upon it? Add up all your devices, and find out what the total load is on the Alternator under "Max" Condition...Does It exceed Alternator Output? If so, you need to upgrade it. Make Sure the regulator is matched and can keep up with it too. Remember, Your Lights, brake lights, turnsignals all count too.

    Check that out and see if it helps. It sounds like your already using an Isolator, Do the batteries stay charged?

    Doc:pimp:
    =======================
    Death is just nature's way of telling
    you to watch your airspeed.
 
#8 ·
ok, Well thanx's again for all the help. I'm thinking it might be the diode thingy. I'll try to explain better. When I start my truck. right away it (the alt.) starts squelling(high pitch). The factory gauge drops to -8 to -10 volts. Then slowly, it comes up but takes like 5 minutes at idle WITHOUT ANYTHING running to charge up. If I start to even drive right away(without waiting the 5 min). The squelling almost never or takes up to 15 minutes to go away? When I hit my brake lights I see the volt gauge drop a little. All factory items (heater fan,lights,disributor,ect) run off the 1 battery under the hood. All the stereo equipment runs off the 2 large(1200 cca) batteries in the box of the bed. They are all conected through an isolator under the hood for even charging. I have NO problem with dimming lights or anything? No noise in the stereo from dirty electicity or anything? The gauge of wire I have running depends on what it's for and how long it has to be. The longer power wires are 4 and 8 gauge wire. Also have 1 farad capacitor. As far as how many watts I use and actually have, no clue? There's 5 amps, 1 cap, 1 head unit, 1 12 disc changer, 2 alarms, custom int. lights, air compressor for the 4 air horns. I'm starting to think I need a portable nuclear reactor? That why I was wondering about putting in a 2 nd charging system.(and posiably a few solar panels here and there? I already have the computer system to put in with a dc/ac converter but want to get rid of the present electical problem BEFORE creating new ones........Any help or sugestion would be great
 
#9 ·
CHARGING

Have you considered a 100 amp. alternater. I put one one a 81 chevy pick up in the org. local and used and early model tenion bracket. The alt. are about 100.00 core charge it you don't have a tradein. I'd check with a shop. You should be able to measure the current with every thing on at once. Really, all that stuff shouldn't be on at once. With one battery to crank , and the other two on the Isolater, it should work.
P.S. I forgot, don't try to jump start something with the engine running. When they it the starter, it'll blow the fuse link in the wirer running across the dash under the hood to the switch.
 
#10 ·
Diodes

Doc here:pimp:

Sounds like you have a failing Diode Bridge, The indications you have pointed out are just about what it does when they go bad.

You DO NOT want to install any computer or Video Equipment Until you clear this up. It can damage them (AC ripple on a DC line)

The Diodes are totally Replaceable, They come in a little flat epoxy pack with two, or four mounting screw / Electrical posts. Just pull the alternator, Half The Alternator Case and locate The Diode pack, remove and replace it with new, and reassemble. I forget the cost, about 20 bucks I think. OR you might want to just upgrade to a higher output alternator. Either way hold off on that computer Stuff until after you fix it.

Doc:pimp:
 
#12 ·
slow to charge

Docvette, I think I've run in that before. 65 chevelle, the battery would work great, as long as I drove in the day time. But if I Say\tarted nite driving, the batt. went down. I bought the dio. at local parts store and replaced them. Seam like you can check them with a meter, they'll read one way but not the other. But you have to disconnect them to test them.
 
#13 ·
Diodes

Doc here::pimp:

Had that problem on my Vette, I mostly only drive at night, If I didn't Run it the next day, with no load, or it sat for more than 2 days the battery went dead... Drove me Nutz... Cuz the Amp Gauge said it was working!

Diodes are Indeed Checkable (For the ability To pass Current) With an Ohm meter, Set to R x 1 scale set the leads in one configuration (matters not which one to start) Then look at the meter. Either 0 or infinite.. then reverse the leads you should read the opposite of what you read before.. I.E. If your reading was 0 then reversing the meter leads will give you infinite readings.

Diodes are KEWL little things, Can rectify or Change AC into DC , Block AC from DC, isolate DC from DC and otherwise Fold, spindle or multilate RF...

Another KEWL diode is the Zener, It can be used as a protection "Crowbar" For Electronic Equipment. A Zener works like a regular diode, But has a "Gate " Voltage, or threshold in one direction in which the diode will conduct.

You Can install these on Electronic Equipment After the Fuse, but before the Equipment, ACROSS the power and Ground... No , I'm Not nutz...Remember it's a diode, with a gate...If your Equipment is 12 volts (Say a CD player) Then Select a 12.0 volt zener...If you Accidentally reverse the power, the Zener will "Crowbar" To Ground and blow the fuse and Zener BEFORE any damage can occur to the equipment. It will not allow you to power up again until you replace the fuse and zener and reverse the leads.

I Build Microwave Transmitter STL's Like those used in News Vans, and install the zener protection on all my Stuff...people are mighty happy to find a 50 buck repair bill instead of a $79,000.00 Transmitter Replacement Cost.

Semiconductors...Whudda thunk...??
I can remember when a "Hand Calculator Consisted of Beads Strung on a wire in a wood frame.. (Abacus fur ya' youngun's)

Doc:pimp:
========================
"A human being is the best computer available to place in a Aircraft. ... It is also the only one that can be mass produced with unskilled labor." --
 
#14 ·
The sqealing could be caused by a bad bearing in the alt. This with a bad diode would cause it to charge slowly. What you might also consider is using a high output alt. When I was in the car stereo business, we used to install 250-400 amp alts in cars with huge systems. Now, these are not cheap, around $500-800. But, it will take car of any light dimming and will make sure you are getting enough current and voltage to your equipment. The stock alt can't produce enough current for all that stuff. You will collapse the diode (which it sounds may have already happened) very quickly. If you go to a high end (no hack places) car audio shop, they can tell you where to get a high output alt. They are usually not just bolt in. They take some work. They are the same ones used on ambulances and fire trucks.


Good luck.
 
#15 ·
noise.........

Doc here::pimp:

I never asked, cuz I figured it to be first line of defense... So I'll ask now, The Belt is tight right? No slippage?

Also The Noise I was refering to was Electrical in Nature, Induced into the Speakers...I s It mechanical?? Then yes, In fact it would be a Bearing!

Sorry for the Confusion...

Doc
:pimp:
 
#16 ·
lol, don't blame you for asking. but yes the belt is good, not too tight or too loose. And the alt. is aligned. been through all that. That's why it's been bugging me so much. I just redid my sub box. I need to get this resolved.That's why I wanted to add a second charging system to help? I already have another alt. just need to figure a bracket to install it on the engine. Just curious on how to set up the "sensing" wire coming out the 2nd alt. The same place as the 1st alt.?

Also, would it be better to have the second charging system connected directly to the AUX. batteries? There's 4 batteries in the box and another under the hood. Connected through a isolator.

Thank's in advance
 
#17 ·
Go with the high output altenator. The audio stores know where to get them for a reason. They have been proven as the best answer to the problems that you are now starting to have. Besides, if you can afford a touch screen computer and all the amps and speakers that you have, you can afford to buy the best/correct solution to your current problem.
 
#18 ·
i recall seeing a hifonics blazer in the early 90's with 6 alternators driven hydraulically off the power stearing pump but ya all you really need to do is invest in a high amperage at low speed alternator. The problem is atm you are trying to charge 3 batteries with a stock 60-120 amp alternator at low engine speeds the factory alt puts out much lessthen its rated for. I had a 1500 watt sterio in my 72 nova in the early 90's 4 225 HCCA orions and one 2100 HCCA single battery up front and 2 in the truck off a orion isolator. The phoenix gold alternators never gave me a problem and i could play the system full crank at idle and never hit 13 volts.

http://www.alternatorparts.com/Double_Rectifier_cs144.htm

looks like a pretty serious alternator and if you have all this equiptment in your truck you also know that the lower the voltage the lower your sq will be abd it will also be harder on the equiptment

Mike

( just my two cents )
 
#19 · (Edited)
Well, long weekend, built/building the sub box in the bed of the truck and joining it to the cab. 77z, thanks for the link. Need to buy another alt. anyways, so might as well go big. 200 or 250 amp should be plenty for now?


Thank's everyone for the help/suggestions

Also, is it ok to mix 6 volt and 12 volt batteries? I've got 4 6 volt batt. running 2 and 2 too make 12 volt per pair. Can I join the 2 12 volt lines together on one side of the isolator. Then have 2 12 volt batteries running together on the other side of the isolator? And the big alt. charging them all?


Thank's again
 
#20 ·
2 batteries

Doc here:
:pimp:

Running 2 banks of 2 Batteries has a few drawbacks. First, The Two Serial Batteries will favor the Battery with the most resistance on charge, ignoring the other.

Second You Have to switch Between the 2 Parallel for Charge, (or Should) ... unless isolated.

Third If these are Deep Cycle Trojan's 6 Volter's Have you given any thought to the fact your hauling about 750 pounds, or an extra 1/4 Ton of dead weight?

Just some things to think on while planning....

Doc:pimp:
 
#21 ·
Doc , lol, your like really helpful and just wanted to say thanks alot.As far as the batteries go. I have 4 6 volt MACK batteries(out of a mack truck and made by mack). 2 or maybe 4 12 volt MACK batteries. Just trying to figure out the best design/set-up. Have only 1 capacitor for now. Also have a isolator. 4 amps(1 for high's & 3 for the subs) And all the batteries together are about 300-400 pds. My truck was set up with a 2 ton rear end. It was a tow truck. But I eased up the suspension a little when I lowered it.(Had a shop do the dropping) It's now a 3/4 ton. And will be putting air bags on in a while. But NE-how, I would like to hear suggestions about setting/wiring this sucker up? Please? Also, on the alt. I have 3 wires.Where would be a good place to connect the wire from the alt that reads the voltage in the system. Also have lots of in-line fuses and fuse blocks.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Suplementry Charging System

Doc here:
:pimp:

Sorry about the Delay in getting back to you, Flat on my back the last few days.

Here is a Good Detail Provided from Alan on how to hook up the Charging system. Remember to keep it Isolated From the Stock Charging System or you may run into some problems.

Knife Disconnects would be in order when dealing with that much Current. As Well as Fuses. You may Search your local Electrical Supplier For a 3 phase 600 amp Circuit Breaker and use that. That will provide up to 3 Circuits at about 00 gauge (Bigger than a standard Battery Cable)

A Couple of SW Amp Gauges would Be a Good idea also, you can monitor Rate of charge/discharge.

You Say you are using a Capacitor (For Wave Shaping & Buffering I guess??) If so, you will want to use a load on that cap, especially if it is One of those BIG 20,000000 MFD Computer Type Filter Caps.. Those Can Kill If you get tangled up in one!!


A Good Drain would be through a knife Disconnect Run that leg before it goes to the Battery Disconnect and, preferably interlocked with it, so that when the Battery is disconnected, It will run from the Cap to a Standard 150 Watt light bulb and drain down the Cap....Those Can hold enough DC current to Stop your heart 50 times over!

Another Consideration would be to Set up your buss lines (DC output to Devices) and mark them.

When I Do these in ENG's, I use standard Plug Strips (like you get in a regular Hardware store) Paint them RED and mark them as "DC only". I then Wire my devices to match (3 prong Zip Cord or liquid Tight if you can get it.(Be sure to Make these as "DC only too)

If you Want to spend a little more Cash..you Can get Anderson Power Poles... But the Power Strips will work just Fine.

Other things I have done in the Past, For ENG Van's that don't like Full View Batteries.. Is get Coleman Coolers the size of the Batteries (All or individually), and Make them into Battery Boxes. Bolting them to the Floor, and using Copper Buss bars between them. You Need to install an overboard drain, So fluids will drain overboard, and a Fan System, (Computer muffin Fans work well For this) To Eliminate the Build up of H2So4 fumes in the Cabin area.

If you have Talent, and a Conduit bender, I'd Run as much in Conduit as possible and Terminate at a power pole or Buss strip... This Eliminates the possibility or Something Shorting it out and cutting the back half of your truck off ! Like an oxy / Accel torch!

Well, I'll think of more as we go on here...

See your not gettin' A Virgin here... I probably own the only Corvette That has put out a UHF Television Transmitter Signal from Alameda California All the way to Truckee Ca..while on the move Continuosly in one ride!
(Almost as Fun as The OJ chase...)

SEE SECOND POST FOR SCHEMATIC, It kept uploading wrong here!

Doc
:pimp:
 
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