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Old 03-27-2004, 05:47 PM
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Chevy II Front & Rear Springs

I just picked up a '63 Nova SS
I am building a 383 & TH-400 for the car. The engine is currently a short block and the transmission is all rebuilt w/3000 stall converter.
I am wondering if the '64-'67 front springs for the V8 are stronger than the stock '63 SS springs and if they will fit in my car? I don't plan on replacing the front clip at this time, so I want to make sure the stock suspension is strong enough to hold the SBC without bottoming out. I am using the Milodon 7qt. pan. Will the V8 springs help with the ground clearance? If they are different, what changed? Are they longer or thicker?

I have also started looking at the CE (Competition Engineering) chassis components for the rear end. I have talked with the techs and they say that if I use the bolt-on subframe connectors, tubular crossmember, ladder bars, and offset spring hangers it will get me some tire clearance. Will swapping out the mono-spring for the triple-springs give me any extra height for wider tires? If anyone has any experience with these, I would really appreciate some help to get me on my way...

Rick

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Old 03-28-2004, 08:12 PM
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I found an aftermarket site that sells stock replacement springs. It shows a 6&8 cylinder coil spring set and a A/C&wagon coil spring set.
Does anyone know if the 6&8 cylinder springs were the same? If so, would it be safe to assume that a 383 w/aluminum heads and mostly all aluminum parts would be safe to run on the stock springs? If anyone has any idea I would be a great help to find out before the engine is installed. Thanks,

Rick
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Old 03-28-2004, 08:19 PM
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I think that I would put your drivetrain in with the springs you have now. Then see how it sits and rides. You may like it better that way.
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Old 03-30-2004, 02:53 PM
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DEFINITELY replace the mono spring in the rear! IF you don't and have lots of H.P. you'll get alot of wheel hop! ...Not sure about the front springs??? IF you have power steering in this car, your going to have to change out the oil pan. Normal Chevy's are rear sump, Chevy II are center sump! (Been there!) Next problem on Chevy II is tire size. You won't get much bigger then P235's in the back ...WITHOUT alot of mod.s!!! And again if you have lots of H.P.s go with the sub-frame kit. ALSO look for a Ford 9" rear end out of a Bronco II ...almost a bolt up item. Good Luck!! ...Mark
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 11echo
DEFINITELY replace the mono spring in the rear! IF you don't and have lots of H.P. you'll get alot of wheel hop! ...Not sure about the front springs??? IF you have power steering in this car, your going to have to change out the oil pan. Normal Chevy's are rear sump, Chevy II are center sump! (Been there!) Next problem on Chevy II is tire size. You won't get much bigger then P235's in the back ...WITHOUT alot of mod.s!!! And again if you have lots of H.P.s go with the sub-frame kit. ALSO look for a Ford 9" rear end out of a Bronco II ...almost a bolt up item. Good Luck!! ...Mark

I donno there's alot of guys that are having a great deal of success with racing on mono's
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:56 AM
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Do you feel that I will still be getting a lot of wheel hop when I am running a pair of ladder bars to a weld in ladder bar crossmember that is tied to a pair of subframe connectors? I thought this would eliminate my wheel hop. Do you still feel that it would be necessary to put the stiffer springs in the rear?
I don't have power steering and I already have the special rear sump pan as mentioned in the original post. I think that I will leave the front stock for now and try to put an upgrade clip in the car after a couple of years.
I do have another question about the rear end. If I swap out the differential to a narrowed Ford 9", how much tire can I run?
It looks like the rear of the leafs are directly below the subframe, but the front of the leafs are outboard about 2" from the subframe. If I move the front of the leafs in about 2" so they are also directly below the subframe, do you feel that I can fit a pair of 12" tires in the rear? (The tubs are also about 2" outboard from the subframes and would be required to also move an additional 2" to make this work). Does this sound simple enough?
CE has a kit to move the rear of the leafs inboard about 4”, but I have no idea why?? It looks like you need to move the fronts because they are already at an angle and 2” outboard from the rears… Any ideas??

Rick
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:38 AM
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My brother has a 64 that we have done somw work on. He went with frame connectors, 4 leaf springs out back, and a set of SSM lift bars. The car hooks really well after the mods.....as well as can be expected for a 12 second car on P235's. I think you will find that floor mods will be needed for ladder bars. We looked at that option and there was just no room on those little cars without some work. I would also agree on the springs being moved inward. I think that you will need to make some changes in the front. I also know that you will have to remove the rear axle bumper to gain any room and that will be minimal with the small inner fenders. A set of mini tubs and some quarter panel mods will be needed to add much more than a 235/60. He has about 1 inch clearance to the quarter panel with those.

Chris
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Old 03-31-2004, 09:10 AM
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Sub-frame connectors don't eliminate wheel hop. Because the car is a unita-body (sp?) car, AND if you have something with alot of HP's, it has a tenance to twist the body as you bomb of the line. SO the car will pull to one side. Something you don't want to fight while your going thru the gears. The sub-frame connector eliminates the twist so the car should come off the line straight as and arrow! (Did on mine!) "bolt-on" traction bars help stop wheel hop, but on my car (67 Chevy II) I'd get alittle bit, until I when to the multi-leaf springs. Got mine thru J.C.Whittney ...under a $100 (or near) ...but that was 10 years ago. Also I was running 70 series tires ...to get the larger diameter. But mine was also a daily driver, so I NEEDED the power steering ...and was "lucky" enough to find and old 65 car in the junk yard, and picked up the oil pan and pickup. Chevy II are FUN cars, but they are a pain in the b*tt too! *G* Good Luck!! ...Mark
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Old 03-31-2004, 09:17 AM
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Subframe connectors may not eliminate wheel hop, but they are essential for good traction. The stiffer the frame/body the better any suspension mods can work.

Chris
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:40 PM
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Thanks to both of you! This is exactly the facts I was hoping to hear...

Chris... I talked to CE and they also told me that the floor would need to be cut to use the ladder bars. I don't want to cut the floors, so I was looking at the exact same route the two of you took. I was looking at the CE Slide-A-Link system, which is basically the same as the lift bars, but they have a "shock pad" in the middle that allows a little better feel on the road, but immediatly lock on a launch. You say that you still used the subframe connectors... I would also like to use them, but I am not sure what they will mount to on the back? Do you still use a crossmember, just mount it to the sides of the car? This is what I was planning on doing with the ladder bars, but do you think it will still work without the bars? I am sure it will still help stiffen up the car, I am just not sure what it will weld to in the back end.
What is the rear axle bumper?
Do you think I can get 255/60-15 under the stock fenderwells? These would be 10" tires that would probably be on 15x8 wheels. If not, I am going to mini-tub the rear and try to fit a 10-12" tire.
Oh... about the multi-leaf springs. CE says you can only run a mono-spring with the Slide-A-Links. Can you run heavier springs with the SSM bars?
Thanks for all the help... Rick
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:34 PM
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Not sure what happened to my last responce.....

The frame connectors attatch to the front spring perch on the rear leafs. My brother is running multiple leafs with the SSM bars with no problems. It is very stiff, but that is good. I dont think there is any way to get the 255's in there without some trimming and the 8 inch wheels are too wide as well, My brother has 7 inch tires with 235/60s and that is about as much as will fit....it is tight. The axle bumpers are on rear subframe right above the axle. They prevent damage if the suspension bottoms out. With multileafs it will not be a problem.

Chris
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