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Old 05-04-2005, 01:33 PM
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chevy sb 350 question

i realy dont think this is a chevy 350 only deal here
any ways on to my question
i have just finished building my motor and installed it into my car last weekend wired it up primed the oil pump installed the distibutor started the motor and ran it for about 2 mins just to check for leaks and to set the timing
after shutting her down
the motor was making a realy loud ticking noise almost to the point that it was a poping noise the noise sound's and feels like its coming from the valve tran area i can hold my hand on the rochers and feel the noise almost as if its the lifters that are makeing the noise or the valves
anyone know what this mite be
i havent ajusted my valves properly just yet
i was going to ajust them when i started the motor but right now im just running headers and the motor was way to loud so i couldnt hear if they where ticking any
right now i have them ajusted down to where they dont have any play in them
i tightend the to where they stoped wiggling and then i 1/4 turn past that point
i hope i havent lost anyone yet
this popping noise isnt from the motor heating up
last night i pulled all the plug wires and spun the motor over for about 30 seconds and i had this poping noise again just from spinning the motor
any ideals on what this mite be?????????????

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Old 05-04-2005, 01:39 PM
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sounds like a valve(s) is too tight
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:49 PM
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if it is a valve that is to tight then what is the best way to set the valves with out running it? im running hydralic lifters>
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:37 PM
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Pull all the plugs out so you can turn the engine over easily with a 1/2' drive ratchet. Bring the timing marks up to top dead center on number one cylinder and adjust the valves on that cylinder, loosen the rockers up then slowly tighten untill you feel all the up and down slack is gone in the pushrod then tighten it another 1/4 turn. When both rockers on number one are adjusted turn the engine clockwise 90 degrees (1/4 turn) and do cylinder number 8, then repeat for cylinder 436572. If done correctly you'll not need to touch them again for a long time. 1/4 turn past 0 preload is the most often suggested amount but I usually go only 1/8 or 1/10 of a turn for a little more top end power and less chance of floating the valves from lifter pump up at higher rpms. Bob
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rb8179
if it is a valve that is to tight then what is the best way to set the valves with out running it? im running hydralic lifters>
First let me say that you should run the engine around 20 minutes for the cam break-in before attempting to accurately setting the timing and/or adjusting the carb.Be sure to change the oil and the filter after breaking in the cam

Below is what I suggest for setting hydraulic lifters with the engine not running.

Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters On Small Block Chevrolet

Install all the hydraulic lifters and pushrods.

NOTE: New lifters do not have to be pre-lubed. Assembly lube should be put on the cam and the mating face of the lifters.

Install all the rockers and the adjusting nuts leaving them loose. Do not tighten the adjusting nuts before adjusting the valves. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making the adjustments.

Adjust one valve at a time.

Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise looking from the front of the engine) until the exhaust lifter on the cylinder that you are adjusting just begins to move up. At this point adjust the intake valve on that cylinder to ‘0’ lash with no pre-load. Then tighten the adjusting nut ¼ to ½ additional turns.

Rotate the engine over again until the intake lifter has come to the full lift and then is almost all the way back down. At this point adjust the exhaust valve to ‘0’ lash and then tighten an additional ¼ to ½ turns.

Continue the above for each cylinder until all the valves have been adjusted.

NOTE: Rather than spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct ‘feel’, I suggest holding the pushrod between two fingers and lifting the pushrod up and down while slowly tightening the adjusting nut. When you reach the point where there is no up and down movement you will be at ‘0’ lash.

The problem with spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct ‘feel’ is that you can and will still be able to spin the pushrod even if you bottom out the lifter. This can cause you to over tighten the adjustment and can lead to bent and / or broken pushrods and valves.

Priming the oil system before starting the engine will fill the hydraulic lifters.
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Old 05-04-2005, 03:27 PM
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so do you guy think this noise im hearing is most likley my valves are to tight?
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:36 PM
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so do you guy think this noise im hearing is most likley my valves are to tight?
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:45 PM
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Yes what you are hearing is improperly adjusted valves.
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Old 05-04-2005, 07:48 PM
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one of the other guys said hyd. lifters don't have to be pre lubed,,,thats news to me.your problem is probably that you didn't have them properly lubed when you adjusted them.now that you have run the motor they are lubed.don't run it any more til you get the valves adjusted. if you simply go to the knowledge base on this site you will find instructions on it.it sounds you you probably know.your lifters have to be pumped up to properly be adjusted though.you can use an oiling can to squirt oil into the small hole on the side.
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Old 05-04-2005, 08:06 PM
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I installed my comp cam instructions said this"it is not necessary to pre pump hydraulic lifters full of oil prior to install it is actually undersirable to do so pumped up lifters will cause valves to open during adjustment process" I did mine this way everything was fine.
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Old 05-05-2005, 12:25 PM
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ok i'll check my valves tonight when i go home and re-ajust them if needed
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