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Old 06-02-2013, 05:56 PM
To be sure: BUILT IT YOURSELF
 
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Chevy Small Block Build.

This thread is dedicated to my automotive Hero: John Lingenfelter. May he Race In Peace!

The scanned pic is from my "toolbox" from when I started as auto tech 17+ years ago. I forget the mag it came from, but I believe the year was 1995. I'm a Chevy fan BTW. Too bad for Pontiac though. Either way this guy was about engines and electronic fuel injection from early on and I always liked that because I was and still am into electronics.

So the block I would like to start with is the GMPP 383 bare block 88962516 383 Bare Block (1986'Later Style) at GM Performance Motor & Parts It's relatively cheap, brand new and "from the source".

As the design specs will dictate which additional parts to buy, I would like to say that I favor a "balanced" rotating assembly with forged crank. Also a direct drive cam/crank gears, helical style for less noise. And a solid roller lifter approach to the valvetrain. OMG @$935 for Comp Cams solid roller lifters!

BTW: My dream is to mate this engine to a 6-speed Richmond Gear manual trans. For the body, I like 1960 chevelles, because of their full frame and small bodies. Also, early Novas are nice, but I don't have the car yet. I'll have to take a loan for that. An engine I can build and own, one piece at a time.

All input welcome, I got thick skin so tear me apart, it ain't gonna hurt my feelings!
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Last edited by UltimateRoadWarrior; 06-02-2013 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:43 PM
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You might want to do a search on the GM 383s using oil. Many speculate that it could be from the cylinder bores not being as long on the 880 blocks as the earlier 638 blocks.
I would be sure to verify that the block in the link isn't an 880, but I think it is.
FWIW,
ssmonty
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimateRoadWarrior View Post
This thread is dedicated to my automotive Hero: John Lingenfelter. May he Race In Peace!

The scanned pic is from my "toolbox" from when I started as auto tech 17+ years ago. I forget the mag it came from, but I believe the year was 1995. I'm a Chevy fan BTW. Too bad for Pontiac though. Either way this guy was about engines and electronic fuel injection from early on and I always liked that because I was and still am into electronics.

So the block I would like to start with is the GMPP 383 bare block 88962516 383 Bare Block (1986'Later Style) at GM Performance Motor & Parts It's relatively cheap, brand new and "from the source".

As the design specs will dictate which additional parts to buy, I would like to say that I favor a "balanced" rotating assembly with forged crank. Also a direct drive cam/crank gears, helical style for less noise. And a solid roller lifter approach to the valvetrain. OMG @$935 for Comp Cams solid roller lifters!

BTW: My dream is to mate this engine to a 6-speed Richmond Gear manual trans. For the body, I like 1960 chevelles, because of their full frame and small bodies. Also, early Novas are nice, but I don't have the car yet. I'll have to take a loan for that. An engine I can build and own, one piece at a time.

All input welcome, I got thick skin so tear me apart, it ain't gonna hurt my feelings!
Gonna be tough trying to find a 1960 Chevelle
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:37 PM
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I think you need the car first,then do the suspension and brakes and drive train. The GM 383 uses a 3.80 stroke instead of the more common 3.75 stroke.
after all the rest is done and you have a power setting in mind,then we pick some HiPerf. parts
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:15 PM
To be sure: BUILT IT YOURSELF
 
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
... The GM 383 uses a 3.80 stroke instead of the more common 3.75 stroke.
after all the rest is done and you have a power setting in mind,then we pick some HiPerf. parts
I did notice this .05" discrepancy while comparing prices for forged cranks from GMPP and Summit.

I would prefer to buy the block AND rotating assembly balanced from GM, but does GM offer this option when purchasing one of their crank/piston/rod rotating assemblies?

GM offers their stand alone forged 4340 crank @$1100. If I'm going to pay that much I would like the bottom end balanced for the higher RPMs, i.e. 6000+
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Old 06-02-2013, 10:34 PM
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almost all parts are at least static balanced.I always check all parts for balance
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:26 AM
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I would like to do the engine first because I can build it up slow while throwing bits of money at it. A car is going to be a lump some purchase, most likely a loan which I can't afford right now as I'm paying down another load I took out to pay off SnapOn. But I do have my eyes open for a suitable chassis. Saw a '65 and '66 Chevelle for ~$5000 ea.

Was wondering if it would be better to go with the 4.75 stroke setup. Maybe more parts available.

I did some reading about the oil consumption too, not a good situation. Maybe a de-stroked 350 would be the way to go like the 327.
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:34 AM
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If you build an engine first,how long will you let it sit in a corner before installing it in a suitable rolling chasis?If you at least had a car that needed work,you could build an engine that will fit the application,,,

what happens if you build(example only) a 392 stroker gen 1 and then you find a good deal on an LS powered Camaro?
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:21 AM
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Man.I feel like if I don't make this suggestion,I would being doing you a disservice.NEVER EVER USE CREDIT ON HOT RODDING!!!
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
...what happens if you build(example only) a 392 stroker gen 1 and then you find a good deal on an LS powered Camaro?
I abide by the law and the law in NC states that any car over 35+ years old does not require a state inspection.
BTW, I wouldn't let the enigine just sit in a corner, I would look at it every day after doing research and imagine the rotating assembly obeying my commands immediately without hesitation. Certain parts getting hotter, expanding pushrods especially.... Parts will have to be bought. Then some specialized engine building tools will have to be bought... First some books though, I await 2 books whilst I jabberjaw on here and do research.

Quote:
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Man.I feel like if I don't make this suggestion,I would being doing you a disservice.NEVER EVER USE CREDIT ON HOT RODDING!!!
Thanks for your input, but I don't see a problem with a load for the chassis. Usually an individual needs to be paid all up front, unlike a dealer. But I am extremely unlikey to buy from a dealer. Also, before I buy anything I will absolutely demand to test drive the vehicle if possible, but most definately perform a pre-purchase inspection by yours truly.
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