Chevy Torque Converter Swap! - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2007, 07:02 PM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Chevy Torque Converter Swap!

Help

It's time for the stock 1972 torque converter to come out of my Chevy. I have a new Hughes Performance GM30 converter to throw in there. Buying it was easy, not it's time for the hard part - installing it.

It's a big block chevy 454, with a TH-350 trans.

I've got the car up in the air, trans fluid drained, a couple hydraulic jacks, and I'm ready to go.

This is my first one so I am not sure of myself. I know basically what needs to be done by am worried about a couple of things.

1) which way will the trans want to "tip" when it's unbolted from the bellhousing. Is it going to fall on me?

2) is there a secret to removing the trans and converter from the flexplate. Will it just slide back nicely or will I have to push and pull on it?

3) will the converter just slide off the trans shaft or will it need pushing and pulling?

4) how much does my TH-350 weigh? 50 lbs, 100 lbs, 150 lbs?

5) is there a trick to reinstalling the whole assembly and bolting it to the bellhousing. will I be able to do it myself?

Lee

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2007, 08:16 PM
Crosley's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: T-350 rebuild tech
Last journal entry: Bar under the dash
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ... USA
Posts: 8,058
Wiki Edits: 1659

Thanks: 315
Thanked 94 Times in 91 Posts
what type of jacks? !

The t-350 tranny is over 200 pounds with fluid and converter... you can get hurt very easy & fast!
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies... Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2007, 08:21 PM
topdogger's Avatar
Newskool
 

Last journal entry: New, Used grill arrived!
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Regina, Sask(CAN)
Age: 24
Posts: 246
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I recently pulled the transmission out of my 74 nova ss and it went REALLY smoothly. It had a standard th350 in it and they aren't all that hard to do.

I took this process to get it all done.
1. Support engine with bottle jack
2. Support trasmission with jack(I used a 2x10 ontop to spread the load over the pan)
3. Remove all connections(including driveshaft and torque converter bolts)
- Use a crow bar against the flywheel to rotate the engine and remove any converter bolts out of reach.
4. Double check everything and make sure its all disconnected and ready to be removed.
5. Remove the transmission crossmember.
6. Unbolt the transmission from the engine(I left the bottom bolt on one side so I could disconnect it last when I was ready. I pulled it out on my own and didn't have someone to unbolt as I spotted).
7. From underneath the car remove the last bolt holding the transmission to the engine. From there you should be able to slide the transmission back. I would suggest moving it back about an inch. From there you can check your clearances and figure out the best way to remove the transmission.

There are two "pegs" in your engine block that I'm assuming are for aligning the transmission with the engine. These come in hand as they prevent your transmission from moving when unbolted and flush against the motor.

Here's a picture of my transmission coming out and the new one near it:
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0257.JPG
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0258.JPG

Back of the engine all supported:
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0261.JPG
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0263.JPG

I had some problems with my cooling lines and luckly I had a hacksaw out from cutting my exhaust. When the transmission was sitting on the jack just after being disconnected from the motor I realized the cooling lines where seized in. A hacksaw and tinsnips made quick do of the steel lines.
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0268.JPG


Thats the method I used atleast. I'm a skronny 16 year old and I had no problem removing the transmission or keeping it on a jack. It was all very stable.

If I find a chance I'll type out the section from my GM service manual. It says step by step how your supposed to remove the transmission. I followed it and all went well. Just remember to take your transmission pan all the way off when its still in the car. I made that mistake.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2007, 09:34 PM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
what type of jacks? !

The t-350 tranny is over 200 pounds with fluid and converter... you can get hurt very easy & fast!
2.5 ton rolling floor jacks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2007, 09:36 PM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by topdogger
I recently pulled the transmission out of my 74 nova ss and it went REALLY smoothly. It had a standard th350 in it and they aren't all that hard to do.

I took this process to get it all done.
1. Support engine with bottle jack
2. Support trasmission with jack(I used a 2x10 ontop to spread the load over the pan)
3. Remove all connections(including driveshaft and torque converter bolts)
- Use a crow bar against the flywheel to rotate the engine and remove any converter bolts out of reach.
4. Double check everything and make sure its all disconnected and ready to be removed.
5. Remove the transmission crossmember.
6. Unbolt the transmission from the engine(I left the bottom bolt on one side so I could disconnect it last when I was ready. I pulled it out on my own and didn't have someone to unbolt as I spotted).
7. From underneath the car remove the last bolt holding the transmission to the engine. From there you should be able to slide the transmission back. I would suggest moving it back about an inch. From there you can check your clearances and figure out the best way to remove the transmission.

There are two "pegs" in your engine block that I'm assuming are for aligning the transmission with the engine. These come in hand as they prevent your transmission from moving when unbolted and flush against the motor.

Here's a picture of my transmission coming out and the new one near it:
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0257.JPG
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0258.JPG

Back of the engine all supported:
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0261.JPG
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0263.JPG

I had some problems with my cooling lines and luckly I had a hacksaw out from cutting my exhaust. When the transmission was sitting on the jack just after being disconnected from the motor I realized the cooling lines where seized in. A hacksaw and tinsnips made quick do of the steel lines.
http://www.webdummy.net/nova/winter/...l/DSCF0268.JPG


Thats the method I used atleast. I'm a skronny 16 year old and I had no problem removing the transmission or keeping it on a jack. It was all very stable.

If I find a chance I'll type out the section from my GM service manual. It says step by step how your supposed to remove the transmission. I followed it and all went well. Just remember to take your transmission pan all the way off when its still in the car. I made that mistake.
yea, thanks.

that's one thing I didnt think of, to support the engine. Even though it's sittin on motor mounts, it will likely "tip" back when the trans is disconnected from it. Maybe, maybe not, but not a bad idea to support it under the oil pan with a flat board. I'll try that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2007, 09:42 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shreveport LA
Age: 64
Posts: 5,103
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
True fact. Otherwise it'll rest the distributor on the firewall. Might want to remove the cap & rotor anyway, just to avoid damage.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2007, 11:00 PM
topdogger's Avatar
Newskool
 

Last journal entry: New, Used grill arrived!
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Regina, Sask(CAN)
Age: 24
Posts: 246
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfulco
True fact. Otherwise it'll rest the distributor on the firewall. Might want to remove the cap & rotor anyway, just to avoid damage.
Yes that probably wouldn't hurt. I had lots of room to work with because tunnel on my car is big enough for a 4spd transmission. So I have lots of room to work with.

You could get away without removeing it. Thats up to you. If you want to be extra careful remove it. Otherwise just support the motor and make sure and raise it up a little bit so its sitting higher then it does when its just normally in the car connected to the transmission. Not much just a tad bit.

Good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2007, 05:55 AM
tnsmith10's Avatar
when will it rain???
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: where its very dry and dusty
Age: 43
Posts: 1,297
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfulco
True fact. Otherwise it'll rest the distributor on the firewall. Might want to remove the cap & rotor anyway, just to avoid damage.
depending on the car, theres plenty of room... besides,as long as the exshaust is intact, it should keep the engine from leaning far enough to hit the distributor.. cars to watch out for... corvette, any x-body car with a v-8(with or without hei, very close!), and some chevy trucks (big block).
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Torque converter -tranny guy is recommending........ ericbr Transmission - Rearend 1 01-04-2007 11:04 AM
Building a SBC to rev to 8k, and have power Andyrew Engine 52 04-17-2006 12:46 PM
destroyed 1 torque converter hotrodjohn Transmission - Rearend 3 04-17-2005 11:23 AM
Torque Converter Application BMRIde85 Transmission - Rearend 4 06-17-2004 02:57 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.