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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2007, 06:05 PM
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I guess my point is that this shouldn't be a big deal. I like to do it that way because I can move the work around a little if I'm slightly off to begin with.......I'm not locked in by where the needle starts out. Her way guarantees that the thread won't bunch up. But go ahead, be a little girl about it and let her have her way. LOL

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2007, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
But go ahead, be a little girl about it and let her have her way. LOL
OH MAN! Thirty seconds in the penalty box for that one! Sheesh! No respect! LOL

Rodney was right...

Remember, I may be asking her for a job next semester. I'm trying to impress her with my upholstering skills. Remember when you used to try to impress women?

Ok, we're even - LOL
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2007, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty82
The final updates for this week are posted. I'll remember your tip about starting to pleat from the center then working my way out on large inserts, Dan - I'll certainly be doing a lot more of these. I really hadn't thought about the possibility of the fabric coming loose from the scrim and gathering/bunching in the middle. Maybe I'm just lucky it didn't happen to me this time. I'll remember next time. Do you think I should edit the Project Journal to reflect this?
This is your project journal that should reflect how you did the work, and if it works out O.K. is doesn't matter. My point is that starting from the center seems to be a bullet proof way to make sure nothing happens. If you want to add that tip to your journal that might be a good idea. If you want another good tip to eliminate a lot of the math and measuring, send me a regular e-mail.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2007, 12:31 PM
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Weekly updates to the project journal are posted, and last week's entries were edited to reflect Dan's tips to me. Dan also sent me the Seat-a-lator I needed to fix the seat bottom frame, (Thank you again Dan!) and I detailed the installation. Installing it couldn't have been simpler.

Tuesday's class will entail cutting out the rotted out portion of my seat bottom foam and replacing it, then building up the driver's side bolster to better match the passenger's side. While that's drying, I'll do some sewing on the seat covers - most likely the seat bottom first.

As usual, any tips, tricks, comments, complaints, threats of violence, or demands for payment are welcome.
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Old 10-21-2007, 12:56 PM
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I would like to demand a payment, thank you.

$5,000.00 in cash would do nicely.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2007, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by horvath
I would like to demand a payment, thank you.

$5,000.00 in cash would do nicely.

Only $5000? Man - you're cheap!

Get in line, Bro - get in line...
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:02 PM
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2007, 06:41 AM
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When I work on a seat with a seat-a-lator, or a seat with springs for that matter, I add one more step to what Dusty did. I put a piece of seat decking over the seat-a-lator or springs so the seat-a-lator or springs won't cut into the foam. If you look at the inside of the foam, you will see that it gets cut by the seat-a-lator or the springs. A piece of seat decking prevents that.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:17 PM
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You should make a note of that in your Project Journal, Mark!

Thanks, Dan.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2007, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
You should make a note of that in your Project Journal, Mark!

Thanks, Dan.
I believe I will, Alan - as soon as I find out what seat decking is...

OH DAN...!?!?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2007, 08:55 PM
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The seat-a-lator's original intention was to lay over furniture springs and keep cotton batting from being forced through the springs as the furniture was sat on. That was the normal seat construction of its day. Its purpose was to isolate the springs from the next layer above it, and prevent damage to that layer. In a couch or chair, the next layer above is the seat and seat cushions. In a car seat, the next layer above is the seat foam. Now days that type of construction is basically non existent. La-Z-Boy is the only manufacturer I know of who still uses seat-a-lators in their seat construction and their use of it is redundant. They cover their springs with a layer of synthetic fabric and put a seat-a-lator on top of that under their seat foam. (which doesn't work, by the way.)
Somewhere along the line, the seat-a-lator (also called permalator or flexalator, depending on what company manufactured it) was suspended from helical springs as a cheap alternative to actual springs. As time passed, newer synthetic products appeared to replace the seat-a-lator over springs with cotton batting on top of that,with a one piece layer called seat decking. Seat decking comes in many different forms and thicknesses. I will take pictures of some different kinds of seat decking and post them tomorrow.
Aren't you glad you asked!
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2007, 07:12 AM
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As promised, here are some pictures of seat decking, also known as deck pad, flex pad, and insulator pad. The large roll is called flex pad which is 1/2" thick and comes in 20" and 24" widths in rolls 35' long. The other white pad has heavy vinyl on one side and a soft padding on the other side. It is about 3/8" thick, and is tough as nails. I got it on a closeout from one of my suppliers, and it was extremely inexpensive. The gray stuff is 1/4" thick, is a lot lighter, and is made of re-bonded felt. It's O.K. , but I prefer either of the other two. There are other types of deck padding, but these are the only three I had around the shop. Any one of these would work. The gray pad would be perfect over a seat-a-lator, and the other two would be better over springs.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2007, 09:12 AM
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Thanks Dan! I know exactly what you're talking about now, and in fact I saw some of the gray stuff at my supplier's store yesterday when I picked up my listing material. I'll grab some either this afternoon or tomorrow, then I'll put it in when I go to reassemble the seat. Depending on how the foam repair goes tonight in class, I might get the seat bottom cover sewn up. Then it's on to the seat back cover. If everything goes according to plan (HA!) I should have the seat done and reassembled in class on Tuesday, November 6th. If I have enough time left in class, I'll do the sunvisors out of the truck too.

Thanks again!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2007, 07:20 AM
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It's a busy weekend, so I'm updating on the fly this time. Between building more fencing, attending a friend's Halloween party, marching in the Nevada Day Parade, renewing the registration on the wife's Jeep today, building the wife a warping wheel for her loom (don't ask,) and digging fence post holes, I'm doing things here as I have time. I'll get all of the updates posted today though - it just might not be done until later tonight.

As usual, if anyone has any comments, questions, threats, or demands, please, by all means post them.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2007, 09:28 AM
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Mark: You did a nice job on the seat repair. This is exactly why I save all my smaller pieces of thicker foams. It saves having to fabricate the right thickness. I'm curious why you think you only had one piece of polyurethane foam around? I would be surprised if you had anything but polyurethane around. About the only alternative to polyurethane is latex foam which is about 5 times more expensive.

Also, while contact adhesive will work for this job, dedicated foam to foam glue would have been the best choice to make your repair with, and spray grades of either one would also have been better because the formulations are adjusted to let them atomize from an aerosol can.
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Last edited by DanTwoLakes; 10-29-2007 at 09:39 AM.
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