The Chevy Truck Bench Seat - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Interior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2007, 06:55 PM
Dusty82's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: The Chevy Bench Seat - Part 52
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Age: 53
Posts: 306
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thanks for the compliments, Dan! That means a lot coming from you!

I said "the only polyurethane foam we had," because that's true - it's all we had.

I should clarify, I guess. I took Bob up on his offer to repair the foam using the scrap the school had on hand. They had some closed cell foam that's about 1/8" thick, some scrap 1/2" open cell, the blue 2" open cell, and some scrap headliner material. I guess I could have said something about the closed cell foam, but I didn't want to get into talking about the difference between open cell foam and closed cell foam in a project journal, unless you think I should.

I think I'll change it to "the only usable polyurethane foam we had."

I used Latex foam when I upholstered dental chairs for a living. The state of California had different fire retardant standards than the other 49 states at the time (we're talking late 70's & early 80's,) so we used a fire retardant latex foam on all the seats we shipped to California. I know it cost the customer more, but I don't know how expensive it was for the company to buy.

As far as the glue is concerned, do you have a brand name you prefer? In class, all we have is that general purpose foam adhesive, which is basically very much like 3M 77 adhesive, and that 3-2-1 Contact adhesive I used on the foam repair.

I had so much to do today that I didn't get to work on the seat any more at home this weekend, so other than the edit I mentioned above, I don't have any more updates to post. I'll be sewing the covers for the entire class tomorrow, so we'll see how that goes. It's getting colder here with every passing week (we have another storm blowing through tonight) so my time sewing out in the garage is going to be limited to daytime on weekends (if it's warm enough.) Seven classes to go - plenty of time to do this seat - and hopefully the sunvisors.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2007, 08:36 PM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,725
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 122 Times in 115 Posts
Back then, the only fire retardant foam was available in latex which was more expensive, but not nearly as expensive compared to polyurethane as it is now. Now days Californias rules are still different, as are the rules in New York and Boston. There is fire retardant polyurethane that meets all those standards and California 117 standards as well.
Latex pincore (it has holes that go all the way through it, hence the name) foam used to be the gold standard as far as comfort goes, and still is, it's just so expensive no one uses it.

As far as glue goes, I like K-Grip spray grade (in gallons) foam adhesive for foam to foam applications, which I spray with a simple Critter 118 siphon sprayer. The contact adhesive I use in bulk is DAP landau top and trim adhesive (spray grade) which I use in a pressure pot. When I have a small area to glue, I like Performance high temp spray contact adhesive in an aerosol can. I do not like, and have never had good results with any 3-M aerosol products. They have other spray grade products that are very good, but DAP is just as good and is only $56 for a 5 gallon container.
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2007, 08:04 AM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,725
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 122 Times in 115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
The seat-a-lator's original intention was to lay over furniture springs and keep cotton batting from being forced through the springs as the furniture was sat on. That was the normal seat construction of its day. Its purpose was to isolate the springs from the next layer above it, and prevent damage to that layer.
Here's the construction I was talking about. This is the rear seat back from a 66 Mustang convertible. You can see the seat-a-lator which is embedded in burlap. This is the buffer between the seat springs and the cotton batting above it. Having the seat-a-lator embedded in the burlap was an attempt to eliminate one step in the original process. This advancement made it a 3 step process instead of a 4 step process, which would have been springs, burlap, seat-a-lator, cotton.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF0408-1.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	58.8 KB
ID:	25180  
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2007, 09:33 AM
Dusty82's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: The Chevy Bench Seat - Part 52
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Age: 53
Posts: 306
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
The weekly updates are posted.

Last Tuesday was a short class - Renee was out with the flu and Bob wrenched his knee pretty bad on Monday, so he cut things short. His doctor told him to take it easy for a few days, so we shut down an hour early and he took some time off of work. Hopefully everyone is healthy and ready to go tomorrow evening.

I was so busy this weekend (I got a new radial arm saw, which I had to move into my my garage and assemble/tune up, then dig more fence post holes, and then assemble the wife's warping wheel for her loom) that I didn't get any sewing done. That's the price for having a million projects going at the same time.

Hopefully I'll get a lot more time tomorrow evening to make up for the lack of progress.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2007, 10:58 AM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,725
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 122 Times in 115 Posts
Mark: I just looked at your weekly post. You don't need to make relief cuts on the corners, especially big sweeping corners, if you can sew the pieces together without them, they are not a necessity. If you want to draw a 1/2" seam allowance line on the back of the fabric to follow, or staple the parts together, that's fine. Do whatever it takes to sew the pieces together properly the first time, and you will save yourself a lot of grief in the end. Your insert looks like you did a nice job of sewing it, keep up the good work.
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2007, 07:44 AM
Dusty82's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: The Chevy Bench Seat - Part 52
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Age: 53
Posts: 306
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thank you very much, Dan. This whole thing has been a major learning experience for me, and all in all I've had a blast doing it. It's getting down to the wire now - only 5 more classes to go. Next semester is going to be even more fun.

Weekly updates are posted. Between work, colder weather, getting home after dark, and numerous projects around the house that had to be done before freezing temperatures really set in, I didn't get as much done as I wanted to. I'm finally all caught up though, and ready to start sewing the Lap Fell seams in class tomorrow night. I'm going to get the plastic dye today and I'll dye the plastic pieces here at home during the week. Hopefully next weekend's journal update will be a big one.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. They really do help!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:33 PM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,725
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 122 Times in 115 Posts
I hope you're using SEM to color your plastic pieces. They have a whole system of products set up to clean, prep, and color that would make this a very simple project. SEM Scuff and Clean #38338 is the first step followed by SEM plastic/leather prep #38853, followed by a SEM Color Coat aerosol. If you have any questions, just ask.
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2007, 07:12 AM
Dusty82's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: The Chevy Bench Seat - Part 52
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Age: 53
Posts: 306
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Got most of the SEM stuff yesterday, Dan. They were out of the #38338 Scuff & Clean, but expect some in no later than Thursday. I got the #38853 plastic/leather prep, and picked up 2 cans of #15243 Satin Black to do the plastic parts. I'm gonna do a journal entry on painting these plastic parts when I actually do them. That should be sometime this week - depending on the weather.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2007, 10:34 AM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,725
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 122 Times in 115 Posts
You can also start with SEM Soap #39362 instead of the Scuff and Clean. Use a gray scuff pad with the soap. It's very easy, you won't have any problems.
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2007, 06:10 AM
Dusty82's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: The Chevy Bench Seat - Part 52
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Age: 53
Posts: 306
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thanks Dan. I'll look for the soap today. Class was canceled last night, so this week I'm going to concentrate on the plastic parts, getting the pad cut for the seat frame, and just generally getting everything together to sew my Lap Fell seams, and assemble the seat.

Last edited by Dusty82; 11-14-2007 at 06:31 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #41 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 12:59 AM
Dusty82's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: The Chevy Bench Seat - Part 52
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Age: 53
Posts: 306
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Went to my supplier's today and found out the #38338 Scuff and Clean isn't something they usually stock. He said they could order it, but it might take a week to get. I picked up a pint of #39362 SEM Soap instead. You said you use a gray scuff pad when applying the soap, Dan - do you mean a gray abrasive pad like a Scotchbrite pad? I know where I can get them, I just want to make sure that's what you meant.

Also, the #38353 Plastic/Leather Prep says to spray the part, then follow with a clean dry cloth. Am I trying to wipe this stuff off or just buff it dry? How long should I wait before wiping it down - meaning, do I have to let it sit a minute to let it work before wiping it down?

The instructions on the can are pretty vague, and of course I didn't think to ask them of they had any data sheets on any of this when I bought it. I'll go back and check it out in the morning on my way to work.

Thanks again for your help!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #42 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 07:55 AM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,725
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 122 Times in 115 Posts
Go to the SEM web site for specific instructions on using these products. http://www.sem.ws/tech_sheet/rap-1.pdf Yes, after you spray on the Plastic/ Leather prep, you let it work and then wipe it down later. Yes, a gray Scothbrite type pad. Sem uses two kinds of pads, gray and green. You should be able to buy them where you bought the other SEM products.
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #43 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 10:43 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,810
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 81 Times in 68 Posts
Happy birthday Dan

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #44 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 11:35 AM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,725
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 122 Times in 115 Posts
Thanks, Vince!
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #45 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 04:33 PM
horvath's Avatar
Acoustic Rock ... for real.
 

Last journal entry: About Fusible Links
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Central New Jersey
Age: 63
Posts: 1,982
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Happy birthday, Dan!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Interior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1953 Chevy Truck Vin Help Homeseller Hotrodding Basics 14 08-12-2012 09:24 AM
chevy 396 truck vs car engine MPCzehura Engine 4 11-28-2006 09:07 AM
Car 235ci into '53 Chevy Truck New2theart Engine 8 10-17-2006 12:37 AM
New Seat Vendor for 48 Chevy Truck??? bg Interior 1 08-28-2003 08:12 AM
Seat for a 48 Chevy truck bg Interior 1 07-22-2003 11:52 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.