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The L wire is the one from the computer that is pulse modulated. You cant hook 12 volts to it, you will fry it.I do not believe you can do what you are trying with this alternator. Try using an si-10 or si15 alternator. It will be cheaper in the long run plus you allready know how to wire it.
There may be a trick to it but I am not aware of it. I would ditch it for a more common old school one like I mentioned.Easy to wire and cheap to rebuild. the si 9 you have is costy. Anyone else care to chime in? I would be interested to know if I am missing something
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LOOKS LIKE A CS130 CONNECTOR. L WIRE IS EXCITER(12 VOLT FEED THAT ABSOLUTLY MUST HAVE A RESISTER INLINE, USUALLY "gen" LITE, S WIRE IS SENSE WIRE, P WIRE IS TO COMPUTER CONTROLLED VEHICLES. F WIRE IS SWITCHED 12 VOLTS. YOU ONLY NEED S AND L CONNECTED TO CHARGE GREAT AND HAVE A GOOD 14.2 AVAILABLE AT ALL TIMES. THE ALTERNATOR IS INTERNALL REGULATED.
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Thanks for the replys. So I can hook the "S" wire directly to the battery, then the "L" wire to the generator light? Sorry electrical wiring is not my best feat. This alternator was free and I'm not worried about frying it, push come to shove I can take latech's advice and get a si-10. But I would really like to get this one going. Thanks, Dustin.
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You can hook the s wire to the battery, but will have the best performance out of it if you connect it to the main buss bar that feeds your electrical needs. the alternator will adjust the voltage according to your needs at peek power demands. the cs alternator will out perform at the si at lower rpm's
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