[Brimstone]

Hey All,

I'm in the process of collecting parts to convert the rear drums on my '78 T/A to discs. I've got all of the junkyard parts to do so ('98-'02 Camaro/Firebird), and am working towards the specialized and wear-item parts. To that end, I've been looking at proportioning valves, and have come up with two that look like they would work - a non-adjustable and an adjustable:

SSBC adjustable: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SSB-A0730/
Right Stuff non-adjustable: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-PV72/

Question is which would be the better valve to go with, or maybe the question should be is is the adjustability of the SSBC valve useful (beyond finding the initial setting)? This is a street car that sees occasional runs down the drag strip, so I'm not trying to squeeze all potential out of an upgrade.

Currently I've got the stock master cylinder (will be replaced with a 4-wheel-disc cylinder from a '79 T/A), stock disc/drum proportioning valve, stainless steel hard- and soft-lines, and stock disc/drum brakes (for now). Because of the stainless hard-lines I would like a whole distribution block instead of an aux. proportioning valve - that way I might only have to worry about bending the lines to fit the new valve and not cutting and flaring for a new one. I guess I could go with a stock valve from a '79 T/A with 4-wheel-discs, but they're not re-popped and not real easy to find.

Thanks,
Mike

[Deuce]

I always use a Wilwood ... and they are considerably less $$$ than the one you show at Summit.

[Brimstone]

Yea, I had thought about an aux. valve, but like I mentioned before - I don't relish the thought of cutting and re-flaring the stainless hard-lines to install one like that.

[Triaged]

I hardly had to do anything to put in my adjustable valve in place of a stock combo valve that looks like that right stuff one you posted. My front brake lines had a single line coming out of the combo valve and a Tee at the frame. I'm guessing yours has 2 lines coming out of the combo valve?

I am not a big fan of brake pressure tail light switches. I prefer having the switch on the brake pedal. Going with that right stuff valve you lose the idiot light switch that is in a stock type combo valve but gain adjustability and the tail light switch. The individual valve is cheap
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905/
[IMG][/IMG]

[Brimstone]

Yep, 2 lines for the front, one for the rear. I wouldn't be using the brake switch on the SSBC valve anyway since it's still got the pedal-mounted switch, but is the adjustability something that would be worthwhile? The only track the car sees is a drag strip, so I'm thinking that the adjustability won't really be used all that much (after initial setup, that is) . . .

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by Brimstone

Because of the stainless hard-lines I would like a whole distribution block instead of an aux. proportioning valve - that way I might only have to worry about bending the lines to fit the new valve and not cutting and flaring for a new one.

Cutting and flaring lines is a non issue for me ...
I had to cut, flare and make ALL the lines on my 32 Fords anyway

It is a simple task and easily learned
.

Deuce Moderator

[Irelands child]

That photo that Deuce posted with his plumbing set up is virtually identical to mine. I too have all Wilwood for the 2 RPV's and prop valve plus all SS hard and braided SS flex at the four wheel disc brakes - which are Wilwood as well, plus it is all done with AN fitting$.

It's very difficult (OK, virtually impossible ) to double flare SS brake tubing without special tools so in general, they are single flared and AN fittings used. This is, photo #1 what I used for tools

The big line you see in the second photo is gone - it was a temp fuel line for initial start up.

(Sorry about the small photo size - these weren't on Photobucket)

Dave W