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Old 09-29-2005, 11:04 PM
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chopping the top on a 60 NASH metro [NOT Geo metro]

I am building a 60 nash metro, and plan on chopping the roof by 3 or so inches,, the roof is real small, and has B pillars similar to the 60'S chev P/U's so I'm not real sure what to do in this area,, I think leaning the windshield back enough to meet the lower profile of the top would be the easiest way, I have chopped several cars in the past, Modal A's 39 chev coupe 36 ford coupe, 33 ford coupe & sedan, but this is a first for a metro,,
the front end has been stretched 22" and now the top needs to come down,,
anyone have some suggestions,, good or bad lets cut this thing up!!! Bill
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Last edited by Bill Parten; 09-30-2005 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 09-30-2005, 08:34 AM
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Geez, I thought you were chopping a Geo Metro.

Well, the front and rear glass is curved. I'd consider keeping the glass intact and dropping it 3" while stretching the roof and keeping the pillars in roughly the same location.

I like the 22" front stretch. A fender stretch and reshape would look good, too.
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Old 10-01-2005, 09:09 AM
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This must be a real tough question for you guys,, I can't believe there isn't but 1 person out there that will even venture any ideas,, all I'm asking for is some ideas on how to do this chop,, [not your wife or first born,,] maybe no one has ever done a metro before,, but surely someone knows something about chopping a chev P.U with the" V" shaped B pillar, Thanks a lot Bill
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Old 10-04-2005, 12:52 AM
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Thanks for the great tips guys ,, you have been a great help,, I won't bother you with any more stupid questions,
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:47 PM
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I've looked at the photos a few times now and can't come up with any sure fire recomendations. The windshield and door areas don't scare me but the rear window area doesn't look fun. Any way you do it I think you'll need a donor roof to make the job easier. The most common proceedure is to cut the center area out of the roof leaving a few inches around the perimeter, then split the window openings down the center and lower all four corners. Use pieces of your donor roof window openings to join all four corners together then set the donor roof skin over and trim for fit-----But.....that rear window design complicates things. Bob
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:39 PM
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Bill, you are wild. You ask a pretty tough question, you get a response and then only a day later you get your panties in a wad.

Honestly, when I read your first post and you say you have chopped a 39 Chevy coupe, 36 Ford coupe, these are some of the hardest early cars to chop, all I thought was, hell, he should be telling us how to do it, not the other way around.

There are about nine people in the US that have seen one of these cars up close and thought about how to do it. You will simply have to wait to see what they have to say when they finally log onto Hotrodders.

If that car was sitting in front of me, sure I would have some ideas. With it on a few bad photos, can't offer much, sorry. My first thought is to cut the top off the quarters right at the bottom, cut the amount you want off and then set it back down. Don't section the rear post, just shorten it. Then lay the windshield back to reach the top which will be back a few inches now.

I hope that makes you happy and you don't chew my butt for not giving you more. But if you want to discuss my thoughts let me know.


Brian
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Bill, you are wild. You ask a pretty tough question, you get a response and then only a day later you get your panties in a wad,


Brian
Sorry Guys,, but I don't wear panties,, I didn't mean any disrespect,, I am in kind of a bind to get this car done, and I guess I expected a few more responses sooner, since most of you guys are quick with suggestions,, and good one's I might add.. thats why I came here, I kinda thought that you guys were ignoring me ,, thinking I was a TROLL or something,,I appoligise,,
heres my take on this chop,, first of all,, it doesn't really matter about the glass, because we will have lexan formed to fit, now correct me if I.m wrong here,, The B piller is now 4 3/4'",where it meets the body,, cutting 3" vertically will leave it 6 1/4 wide. weld that back to the body and then lean the windshield posts back to meet the top, there are no door tops to worry about, there is a body bead at the bottom of the B piller now but that can be made easily enough and added to the new wider B piller, or just leave it smooth,, any thoughts on this?? I really don't want to search for a donor top, unless I really have to, WE have gone through 3 complete frontends getting the front streched,, most metro s/metal is rusty junk,, around here anyway,, I have kept busy building the firewall and core support, hoping someone would have some ideas, Thanks again,, BILL
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:07 PM
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Look at the photo and tell me what you think. First cut the top off, then make the pie cut shown and bring the rear window at the bottom narrowing the sail panel back down to the same as it was at the bottom.

Brian
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Old 10-06-2005, 03:12 PM
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Bill...look at the marks that Martin did. I am not sure about how to go about chopping the top actually but I did a quick "save as" to the desktop and cut and pasted in "Paint" and where Martin has the horizontal line, just drop the top straight down. It widens the bottom of the pillar but still maintains the roof as it should look. Then the front two post need to be leaned back. Ill see if I can clean it up and post it later tonight.

Kevin
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Old 10-06-2005, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Look at the photo and tell me what you think. First cut the top off, then make the pie cut shown and bring the rear window at the bottom narrowing the sail panel back down to the same as it was at the bottom.

Brian
Thats a good idea I think Brian,, do you think the area around the window would have to be cut all the way around to get the correct flow of the top, with out leaving a bend crease in the top.,, maybe leaving a couple of inches attached at the top,, but I'm kinda inclined to think that what you mentioned on your first post, along with Keven,, to just cut 3" out of the bottom . drop it down and lean the windshield back, certainly a lot easier, but , pie cutting it would be more professional looking probably,, but like you mentioned,,, How many people have ever paid enough attention to a damn metro to really know or care how wide the sail panel is,, Thanks Guys
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:27 PM
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No one would ever know if you didn't narrow it. However, it may be needed to properly mate it to the quarter inner structure and what not. That is the hard part about looking at some dark photos on a computer monitor 800 miles away (well actually 325 or so if you live in Ashland ). If I were looking at this thing in my neighbors garage I may see a much better way to strategically do this and make it much easier.

You wouldn't have to completely cut the rear window out at all. Something like what I have offered but just cut up a little further would work fine.

Brian
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Hochstedler
Geez, I thought you were chopping a Geo Metro.
Yeah, me too. I was going to suggest jacking up the radiator cap and driving a different car underneath.

I hope you have a sense of humor today, Bill.
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Old 10-07-2005, 03:09 AM
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Just a quick one before I go to work as I forgot to save the other one. But you get the idea. I just couldn't rotate the windshield post in Paint though.

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Old 10-07-2005, 06:46 PM
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Kevin I like the look that you did with the photo chop,, I think I will go with the easy way and just shorten the panel.. it gives more mass to the side, and will look better than trying to pie cut and keep the narrow bottom , also makes the back window not look so dominating,,
Brian,, thanks for all the GOOD tips,, as mentioned in my first post,, I have chopped several cars, and you are right the coupes are rather difficult to chop,, the 39 chev is in my photo album also a model A,on the 39,, there were 7 pie cuts along the guarter on the top on each side to allow the top to lay down and elimate the turret looking square top the wind shield and rear glass remained the same size, by leaning the back glass forward, and the windshield back,, not a easy chop,, ,,, 66 GMC I always have a good sense of humor, lifes to short for anything else,, Thanks for all the help guys BILL
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Old 10-07-2005, 08:35 PM
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Bill; I have owned two Metros in the past, both restored, not rodded. If it were me, I would not lay back the front pillars. Cut the top, remove the 3" on all 4 pillars then cut the center of the top from side to side and add a filler to have the front of the back pillar and front pillar hit. As you mention, that leaves the rear pillar an unsightly width. Tack the whole thing together and to the body but do not weld the back half of the rear pillar. Now split the rear of the roof an inch or so in from the rear window flange and remove a uniform strip all across the roof that will allow the rear pillar base to be the original size. Weld that rear window flange strip back onto the roof and body. This will result in all the top openings being the same angles as stock, just shorter. That windshield is flat so not a problem. If you are forming up a lexan rear window, no problem either. The windows are held in with simple rubber flanges so doesn't matter what size they are. Of course, there are no side door window frames so that isn't even a consideration. Should actually be a very simple chop compared to most cars, only problem is those two long roof welds but with a MIG and good technique, those are not a problem either.

Here are the steps I would take;

Stock roof showing all the cuts needed


Here is the roof with about 3" taken out. Note fat rear pillar and front that doesn't reach


Here is the top split, moved forward with filler panel added. Now only problem is the fat rear pillar.


Her is the piece that needs to be taken out of the rear roof to thin down the pillar.


Here is the rear flange welded back in place. Filler can come from the section of the rear pillar or better yet, cut this piece off before sectioning and it will probably be long enough when reinstalled.

Last edited by willys36@aol.com; 10-07-2005 at 09:21 PM.
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