[Derkyb]

Picked up a gallon of Chromabase prowler black at a swapmeet for cheap. I have been spraying Nason and have plenty reducer/hardener to complete another job. Question is can i use the Nason reducer/hardener in the chromabase and not have any problems?

[zarbat007]

I would not do it.

Chromabase used "basemaker" which is kinda milky in color.
If it was other brand like R-M Diamont, you could use any universal reducer as long as its a solid color.

So use the right stuff!

[deadbodyman]

i also use nason base only ,but on occation a custumer will want his 85 honda done in chromabase iexplain its not worth the extra cost and with nason he can get the four tires he so despritely needs and a couple bucks for gas,then he brings the paint but no reducer so i found it does work and well ,it wont dry as fast it drys like nason so since youve that your good to go.ive done many times it does work you have my word on it,i dont know why they call it basemaker also any time your wondering about mixing things up read the ingrediants then mix then test first ive made some wicked mistakes in the past but i learned things can be done if you try

[Derkyb]

Ok Deadboy thats good to know, what ratio are you mixing in hardener if any. To add to the experiment im gonna try PPG 661 on top of the chroma that i got cheap from a friend. If all goes well I will have everything for $150 bucks,money is tight

[deadbodyman]

NO HARDNER ive only activated my nason once it worked well but wasnt worth the extra expence and ive never used it in chroma,not to say it wont work but this does i do know that ,just smoke a butt or something i wait 15 min give or take between coats if your useing metalics criss cross and fog after two coats any clear will work

[FRANKBULLITT]

We use nason 441-21 with all chromabase solid colors, its a nice urathane reducer.If its a critical match ,then we use the chroma basemake instead.

[deadbodyman]

funny i just used chroma today with SPI clear here some pics

[Bee4Me]

Yup. Just stay on the "slow" side with the Nason reducer with metallics and as DBM said,give it time to flash off.
If you've ever painted Nason base, You'll understand the expression.
"Watching paint dry" happen before your eye's.
Basemaker is not "milky",it's clear as any standard reducer.
Your thinking S&W,They still use some reactive reducer and Montana is the only one I know who makes a "replacement" for theirs. Basecoat Stabilizer.
Dupont Basemaker has a "touch" of intercoat which makes it "better" for metallics flow out and drop coating is almost unnecessary.
Also has a built in "bomb" of sorts which makes it a gamble to use with other systems. Main reason it's not copied by other "replacement" paint manufactures. Dupont screws with this on purpose so's to keep ya "hooked" on their line.
Same with CrossFire base. Try using any other reducer with their base and you get craps.
Actually,Basemaker works well with Nason base,Better than Nason's reducer if you want to pay the extra for it. Try it with a Nason Silver sometime and you'll see.
I'll activate my base on "trouble" fix's. Usually an oz or 2 of the clear coat cat per sprayable qt.to lock it up better,especally under graphics or stacking multiple layers.Cheap insurance.

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by Bee4Me

Yup. Just stay on the "slow" side with the Nason reducer with metallics and as DBM said,give it time to flash off.
If you've ever painted Nason base, You'll understand the expression.
"Watching paint dry" happen before your eye's.
Basemaker is not "milky",it's clear as any standard reducer.
Your thinking S&W,They still use some reactive reducer and Montana is the only one I know who makes a "replacement" for theirs. Basecoat Stabilizer.
Dupont Basemaker has a "touch" of intercoat which makes it "better" for metallics flow out and drop coating is almost unnecessary.
Also has a built in "bomb" of sorts which makes it a gamble to use with other systems. Main reason it's not copied by other "replacement" paint manufactures. Dupont screws with this on purpose so's to keep ya "hooked" on their line.
Same with CrossFire base. Try using any other reducer with their base and you get craps.
Actually,Basemaker works well with Nason base,Better than Nason's reducer if you want to pay the extra for it. Try it with a Nason Silver sometime and you'll see.
I'll activate my base on "trouble" fix's. Usually an oz or 2 of the clear coat cat per sprayable qt.to lock it up better,especally under graphics or stacking multiple layers.Cheap insurance.

ithought you were a heat and air guy you sure do know a lot about paint i just heard a couple things i didnt knowthanks

[Bee4Me]

I told you I was a "consumed","Serrious Hobbyist" LOL......
I just ask a LOT of questions when I'm around people "in the know".
It's amazing what all you can learn just hanging out at a "good" paint supplier as well as getting to know people who actually manufacture paint.
Besides playing "bench chemist" with products on test panels for grins.
I'd rather screw up on them than an actual paying job.
I get a lot of free products from my jobber,screw up's and mismatch's also, my wife works at a NAPA distrubition center and they monkey up all kinds of S&W stuff.

[Derkyb]

I was also thinking about spraying on a couple of coats of clear wait a few days, wet sand then spray the black base. I'm thinking this will fill all those small imperfections you cant see when its in primer but will surely see under the black.

[deadbodyman]

sounds awfull expencive,i thought you said moneys tight? heres what i do use filler to fill,primer to prime not fill,base then clear,if you want to use your clear up wait two days then sand 600 ,clean well, clean more,use de waxeror precleaner clean again(fingerprints and oils from hands can show up if you dont) then two more coats of clear youll be amazed at your self and be looking for something else to paint,you wont find it though your friends and neighbors will keep you so busy youll quit painting for good if not you come see me ILL wear you out if i cant Bee4me will want to talk to you. WELCOME to the world of automotive painting.Pray that you screw it up Pray P.S. dont look but there twenty insurance companies drooling like hungry wolfs eyeing you like a little bunny right now

[Derkyb]

Hahaha Dboy I forgot to mention the clear was left over from 2yrs ago and probably too old to use as topcoat.

[Bee4Me]

Forget the clear over coat.Thats insane. You don't clear primer.
ONE thing to keep in mind with Chromabase base,
You better check on the Value Shade primer COLOR before you spray ANY Chromabase.
It won't cover for shemp and you go with the wrong primer color under it and your asking for trouble.Matter of fact,you WILL be in trouble.
Either use the correct shade primer or a last coat of sealer for the Black.
Call a jobber and ask them what shade you need.

[deadbodyman]

in that case the hardner is no good are we still talking budget? if so see if the clear still comes out of the can on its own if it does,get a universal hardner with the same ratio as the clear,use the proper reducer called for,reduce it till it sprays put two coats on,let dry ,wait two days sand with 600 do what i told you before then respray with the good stuff.the old clear IS ppg right? dont use two year old cheap stuff.if i were you ,mix up a little and spray something like an old toolbox first to make sure, dont believe everything you hear not even from me try it yourself you can really make a mess,ill be praying for you little bunny . good luck P.S. look up a viscosity cup and how to use it. ive pulled it out with a stir stick before ,it still worked