Greetings!
I spent a good portion of my spring and early summer trying to paint my S10. I had a LOT of problems during that time. Chemical reactions such as fish eyes and lifting drove me nuts as did getting the paint's mixing ration correct. After nearly 3 months of trial an error, I thought I finally got it right. After all my hard work, I had this to show for it..
As awesome as it looked, it still needed to be cut and buffed. That FINALLY got started today.
My buddy who was doing the buffing for me covered the various seams around the roof with masking tape to prevent any build up of compound. When he removed the tape, the clear coat came up in sheets.
The entire upper half of the door, for example, in a single sheet.
The entire truck peeled off in the same way. In the few pieces where I couldn't pick the clear coat up with my nail, a piece of masking tape removed it.
The entire truck in a bucket.
I've seen clearcoat fail before, but, never like this. I have no idea how I managed to **** this one up. All the materials I used came from PaintForCars.com. They said if I needed any additional material, I could mix in PPG products so I did use PPG reducers. I am at a total loss.
Random thought.
I usually add adhesion promoter and fish eye remover to my first coat of color and clear. Could that have something to do with it? The same stuff is in the base that I used in the clear.
I used Bulldog Adhesion Promoter and DX73 PPG Fish eye eliminator.
As best as I can tell, the adhesion on the actual paint is fine. When lifting the clear coat, the paint stuck fine.
We let the base flash for at least 20 minutes before spraying the clear.
I'm not sure what happened, really. It laid down nice and smooth. Sure, it ran in a few spots, but, that was painter's error and something we should have been able to buff out.
It looked **** when it dried. It scuffed fine for the buffing. Blue masking tape was enough to lift the clear off the paint, though.
I'm not sure how to handle the situation at this point. Do I buy some higher grade clear and reshoot the clear after some touch ups? Do I strip all the paint off and start from scratch?
This is the exact Adhesion Promoter that I used. The manner in which I'd always used Adhesion Promoter was to use it in the first coat of base and clear. The other coats didn't need it because we were spraying wet on wet, basically.
Same goes for the fish eye remover. As long as the entire vehicle was covered with that first coat, there was never any reason to add it the next.
I have since learned that this is wrong. If I insist on using AP, I should spray it before applying primer. Do NOT mix it into the base or the clear
With the exception of under the mirrors and some panel edges, most of the clear coat has been stripped. I just need to give the whole thing a once over to make sure nothing has been left behind. What should be my next step?
Do I want to strip the truck down to bare metal? In addition to the factory paint and what I've done, I know of at least one other paint job that has been done to the truck.
Should I reclear what I've got with another brand of clear?
Obviously, if I were to reclear what I've got, I'd now have to go through and scuff everything and repeat all the basic prep work, without adding AP or Fisheye.
BTW, if any of this reads weird, I copied it from multiple posts I made on S10F before I was directed here.
I spent a good portion of my spring and early summer trying to paint my S10. I had a LOT of problems during that time. Chemical reactions such as fish eyes and lifting drove me nuts as did getting the paint's mixing ration correct. After nearly 3 months of trial an error, I thought I finally got it right. After all my hard work, I had this to show for it..
As awesome as it looked, it still needed to be cut and buffed. That FINALLY got started today.
My buddy who was doing the buffing for me covered the various seams around the roof with masking tape to prevent any build up of compound. When he removed the tape, the clear coat came up in sheets.
The entire upper half of the door, for example, in a single sheet.
The entire truck peeled off in the same way. In the few pieces where I couldn't pick the clear coat up with my nail, a piece of masking tape removed it.
The entire truck in a bucket.
I've seen clearcoat fail before, but, never like this. I have no idea how I managed to **** this one up. All the materials I used came from PaintForCars.com. They said if I needed any additional material, I could mix in PPG products so I did use PPG reducers. I am at a total loss.
Random thought.
I usually add adhesion promoter and fish eye remover to my first coat of color and clear. Could that have something to do with it? The same stuff is in the base that I used in the clear.
I used Bulldog Adhesion Promoter and DX73 PPG Fish eye eliminator.
As best as I can tell, the adhesion on the actual paint is fine. When lifting the clear coat, the paint stuck fine.
We let the base flash for at least 20 minutes before spraying the clear.
I'm not sure what happened, really. It laid down nice and smooth. Sure, it ran in a few spots, but, that was painter's error and something we should have been able to buff out.
It looked **** when it dried. It scuffed fine for the buffing. Blue masking tape was enough to lift the clear off the paint, though.
I'm not sure how to handle the situation at this point. Do I buy some higher grade clear and reshoot the clear after some touch ups? Do I strip all the paint off and start from scratch?
This is the exact Adhesion Promoter that I used. The manner in which I'd always used Adhesion Promoter was to use it in the first coat of base and clear. The other coats didn't need it because we were spraying wet on wet, basically.
Same goes for the fish eye remover. As long as the entire vehicle was covered with that first coat, there was never any reason to add it the next.
I have since learned that this is wrong. If I insist on using AP, I should spray it before applying primer. Do NOT mix it into the base or the clear
With the exception of under the mirrors and some panel edges, most of the clear coat has been stripped. I just need to give the whole thing a once over to make sure nothing has been left behind. What should be my next step?
Do I want to strip the truck down to bare metal? In addition to the factory paint and what I've done, I know of at least one other paint job that has been done to the truck.
Should I reclear what I've got with another brand of clear?
Obviously, if I were to reclear what I've got, I'd now have to go through and scuff everything and repeat all the basic prep work, without adding AP or Fisheye.
BTW, if any of this reads weird, I copied it from multiple posts I made on S10F before I was directed here.