youu should sand all the clear off with D/A. block it out. the you have add a color coat, then a couple coats of clear. if it is a keeper, i would remove the paint down to the E coat then prime and paint, and clear.. dont buy cheap clear, it will not last. my friend owns a body shop and he only uses diamont products i think it is a BASF paint. i really like clear coat, it flows out nice.
If you can just shoot the area between the drip rails then you could sand the clear off, prime any cut throughs and basecoat/clearcoat that area. Look for the hood tops of fenders and tops of bedsides to be the next to do this.
I've seen this problems numberous times at my bodyshop. What I do is I take a hot razer (soldering iron with a razor blade for removing moldings and stickers) and start removing as much of the clear as possible. Then I feather edge the clear that still has a good bite. I start start with 220 then 320 and ending at 400. Then DA the entire roof with 400 on a interface pad. Your goal is to not go down to metal. I then will mask off at break lines in the cab ie drip rails, cab corners ect. so that you won't see the clear line. On the safe side I always put a sealer in those cases and then apply my base and clear. Good luck
Corey
+1 with Duallybuster exept we use a razor blade to remove the paint and clear off the primer. It's alot easier than it sounds.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.7K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!