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Old 04-01-2013, 07:04 PM
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clear coat to thin???

I painted and clear coated my first car. Looks good in most places EXCEPT around all the windows and windshield post. It's kind of sandy feeling and lacks the smoth shine. I'm guessing I sprayed the clear to thin. What can I do to fix it? Please be specific.
Many thanks,
Peanut

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Old 04-01-2013, 07:28 PM
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easiest way is wet sand the panel and reclear. If it's just a little dry sometimes you can wet sand and buff.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:47 PM
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If it's too thin (and no one here can tell you if it is or isn't) then you need to apply more. If you cut it smooth you will then be leaving even less and the layer of clear is your UV protection, it is very important. Clear failing is often, very often do to it being too thin and it just breaks down.

So sanding it and applying more clear is recommended by me simply because we don't know what is there. If you knew that you applied plenty and then the last coat somehow you didn't keep it wet, well that is another story. But if you didn't hit those areas good on every coat, it's thin, and needs to be corrected.

Brian
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:43 PM
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I remember an old boss of mine tried his hand at painting. man oh man did we get a laugh out of that one. Anyhow, down low was really peely and I told him it was cause he got lazy and didn't get down there and focus on keeping the gun even heel and 6-9" away. He then thought it would buff out. I told him I would game plan the buffing around the dry area and would hit it first in case it burns thru then I didn't waste time buffing areas that would need painting because of the break thru. even babying the buffer it still broke thru. Dry spray is an instant re paint cause even if you have 3 dry coats of clear in that area it might not be enough and if it is, how long can it last?
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:24 PM
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What grit wet sand? Do I only sand the bad (thin) area or should I extend into a little good clear coat? When I re- clear coat, how far should I overlap from the thin and onto the good clear coat?
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:14 AM
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"Martinsr", Brian is 100% correct in what he posted, no one here knows how much clear you applied on the areas that appear to be dry and burning through when you sand the clear is a possibility. I would get some 800 wet paper...and start trying to sand the areas that are in question. Go over these areas very gently, apply minimal pressure on the sand paper and knock the tops off the dry sprayed area. When you have done this, dry the area you have just sanded and you should see shiny spots and dull spots. You need to get the shiny spots dull. For this I would recommend a grey or white 3M Scotch Brite pad. As with wet sanding, use water with the Scotch Brite pad and again, gently go over the sanded area, dry the area and see if all of the surface that you want to re-clear is dull. Pay special attention to the edges, corners and any where that paint may have a tendency to peel.

Now you have a bigger problem and that is where are these dry areas? You mention that they where "around all the windows and windshield post", if the dry areas are on the lower part of the windows on the door, lower areas of the windshield and rear window then as you mentioned, how far do you overlap the fresh clear onto the surfaces that your happy with. To answer your question you would need to answer the question I just asked.

Pictures would help, knowing what kind of vehicle your painting would help (we could then determine if there are any body lines that could be used to hard mask so no new clear goes onto the clear that your happy with). If there aren't any cut off lines to mask for re-clearing then you have two options, learn how to blend and polish clear or re-clear the whole car. Sometimes, especially if your not well versed in blending clear, re-clearing the entire panel or in may instances, the whole car is your best option for overall success.

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but these are the facts so please answer the questions so we can better help you in this situation.

Ray
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
"Martinsr", Brian is 100% correct in what he posted, no one here knows how much clear you applied on the areas that appear to be dry and burning through when you sand the clear is a possibility.
Ray
If this is his first car he painted you bet it doesn't have enough clear on it if he says it feels gritty. I think EVERYONE has given good advice here.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:47 AM
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Getting an even film thickness over the entire component or car is one of the greatest challenges of painting. Many painters never get it, I have seen guys painting for years who don't do it. It's something that needs to be practiced and practiced and practiced.
Getting thin areas around things like those windows or under wheel wells and places like that is very common and takes a conscience effort to reduce.

Here is a "Basics of Basics" on the subject. Spraying Technique - Autobodystore

Brian
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:03 AM
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Thank you everyone for your good advice. The car is a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with 186,000 miles so I'm not so concerned about it's longevity. I was embarrased to drive it so my husband said "then paint it"...so I did. The paint came out fantastic as well as most clear coat. It's around the small areas that I rushed and got the clear coat to thin.

Ray gave me good detailed advice.... If anyone else has any other ideas please share. I'm leaning towards lightly sanding and re-clear coating the rough (thin) areas. And please, if you have ideas to share give lots of detail!!!

Many thanks for your time and advice!!!
peanut
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:18 AM
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just be sure to sand out all the roughness cause that can affect the smoothness of your new clear. Try not to burn thru. Your clear coat now is a barrier coat so to speak. To get a wet coat spray slower keep your gun closer, add reducer. I wouldn't add more reducer than needed though but it is a way to spray it wetter. To make it easier on yourself maybe you should spray an old panel and practice. coat/glamour coat. The longer the flash and more peel the more it will hold up the next coat. To know how peely takes experience but just trying to give you the idea of how to get a wet coat that won't sag/run all over the place.Don't try to get your glossy glamour clear coat on the first coat, second coat less peely and LONG flash, last coat will be your wettest and not peely.So in a nutshell your clear can get less peely after each coat. This makes painting easier.
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:42 AM
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Well Peanut, congratulations and I mean that...I think it's great that you took it upon yourself to paint your Jeep and thank you for the additional information. I think now it becomes a matter of making decisions. The Jeep is fairly tall and you mentioned that you painted it because you where embarrassed to drive it. If your happy with the sides (except where you need to apply additional clear) you may want to consider leaving the roof as is (as I mentioned, it's a tall vehicle, not many people are going to see the roof) and it's also a large piece of sheet metal. You may want to consider applying additional clear to the sides of the vehicle. The easiest way to do this would be to prep the entire panel that has the dry spray on it. Sand the areas with dry spray as I mentioned in my previous post with 800 grit wet paper and use a 3M Scotch Brite pad and water until the area is completely dull. The rests of the panel could be sanded with 600 grit wet paper or 400 grit dry paper. I prefer 600 grit wet paper, it just seems to leave a better finish. Mask up all the panels that aren't affected by the dry spray (even the roof if your not re-clearing it, if you don't mask it up, the over spray will make the roof look as bad as the areas that have dry spray). Now you will have all of the panels with dry spray exposed and your ready for clear coat. Follow all the usual procedures such as cleaning, wiping the areas that your re-clearing down with a proper solvent, and using a tack cloth over the panels.

What you can do now is apply 1 coat of clear over the areas that had the dry spray, allow this coat of clear to flash. Now give the entire sanded area a coat of clear and it should look much better. Another alternative would be to apply two medium coats wet coats of clear over the entire surface of the prepped panels...sometimes it's just easier that way.

Again, I respect that you took this job upon yourself and I hope this helps. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.

Regards
Ray
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