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Old 01-04-2006, 11:17 PM
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Clear Coating over orangepeel

Hey everyone, i painted my car recently with dupont nason bc/cc. I did the body and the doors/hood/trunk lid separate. The body came out really nice. But i went really heavy with the clear and got tons of runs on the doors. After the hell of sanding those out i got nervious and clear coated the doors very lightly. Thus the effect was super duper orange peel, to the point where the roof and the doors look almost a different shade. The car is painted a solid black with no metalics. I recently touched up some scratches i made and noticed that where i recleared those spots (a little heavier) the orange peel went away. My questions is, after this long schpeal, can I just reclear the doors over top the existing clear and get rid of the orange peel? or most of it at least. It seems to have worked on these small spots. This isnt a show car, but id like it to look semi nice after 5 months of work into it. The orange peel is almost as bad as this car on the doors, and just beautiful on the roof.

OrangePeel

Thanks for any help,
Mark

Oh and i will scuff the clear thats on there now with say 600 grit. My clear has filled 400 quite nice but why chance it.

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Last edited by flipp121; 01-04-2006 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:43 AM
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If the orange peel is in the clear wet sand with 400 or finer sandpaper till the orange peel is gone then reapply the clear.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:32 AM
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The orange peel is in the clear, so i will do that then. Thanks
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Old 01-05-2006, 03:11 AM
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orange peel should knock out rather quickly with 400 or 600, If not, you must really got it pretty bad. You want to try not to cut through that clear though. Nason clear seems to lay out pretty flat the few times I've used it, but does look awful thin and watery in the can to me. Being that you had runs, if decent sized you probably have went down a ways on the clear sanding out, and then you said you went light on the clear next round. Just remember that if you do hit base, you should hit those spots with more base and blend before clear. It sounds like the clear has sat awhile. I've had problems in the past haveing base lifting applying over clear that was not cure enough, but you should be fine if the clear has a day or two to set up in warm enough temperatures. I don't know if I would go as course as 400 on something I was just planning on re clearing and not putting on base, might want to think about hitting with finer grit if you use it. I thought for spots that are only getting clear was around 800 grit or finer. Could be wrong, and some clears have more solids then others.
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Old 01-05-2006, 03:17 AM
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Buff it?

I have had this problem in the past. If you have that much clear coat loaded on the surface, you should be able to sand out the orange peel down to a 1000 or even 1500 wetsand and then buff it out.

Two questions come to mind: Were you consistant with your mix in regards to hardener? Did you try to use fisheye reducer? I can see where you could get runs with all that clear coat but it seems as though, that being the case, you wouldn't have such a problem with orange peel. Are you using reducer? Nason clearcoat works without reducer, but I have seen situations where, because of higher temps, some guys like to shoot it wetter. I have done this myself with a one step paint when my shop was really hot. In this case I have gone wetter with a high temp reducer. Keep in mind that I live in the desert. The up side to that for me is the average 7-11 percent humidity.
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Old 01-05-2006, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipp121
My questions is, after this long schpeal, can I just reclear the doors over top the existing clear and get rid of the orange peel? .
Of course you can, as long as you sand it first.
In fact, a lot of show cars are done that way. If you're going to
put more than 3 or 4 coats of clear on a car it is best to stop
after the first 3 or 4 and let it cure, sand flat then clear again.
Most people recommend against that much clear but if you're going
to do it, that's the preferred way,
It always levels and flows better the second time spraying the clear,
some people call that second spraying a "flow coat" and do it that
way to minimize buffing. You can even thin the flow coat a little more
to help flow. It's done all the time.
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Old 01-05-2006, 05:51 AM
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You might want to do a little more testing with your gun settings before you reshoot them doors. It sounds like the gun just isn't atomizing your clear if your getting thick orange peel. What settings, fluid tip, and gun model are you using now? Is your compressor adequate? Are you spraying in good temperatures?

If the gun isn't breaking up that clear good enough (heavy orange peel) then a person tends to load the product on and ends up with runs and urethane peel. It needs to go on smooth but not overly thick. Bob
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Old 01-05-2006, 07:16 AM
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What badbob said and,
WHAT size air compressor are you using?
Sounds like your running out of air to me.
WHAT clear are you using?

Nason Select 497 or 498?
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Old 01-06-2006, 12:17 PM
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Okay thanks for all the replies guys! You all answered my question perfectly, the stuff i am using is the 97, its just two parts. It was about 18 degress celcius when i shot it, its fairly dry and cold here in alberta. That makes perfect sense about 'flow coating', i dont really care about a little orange peel, and id rather not buff. The orange peel that was on my paint was purely due to the fact that i was basically misting it on the second time cause i was paranoid about runs. If i take my time and set the gun right im sure i can do this now. It just turned winter here so I will wait till the summer comes to reclear it, that way i dont have to worry bout rock chips either. The compressor is a 5hp 30 gallon craftsman which more then keeps up to the gun and will continuously run it. Oh and i used measuring cups to dispense my paint so the mix is perfect according to the tech sheets.

Thanks for the replies everyone, my next problem will be finding a way to seal
water from getting into around my windows where the chrome goes over top. Would you guys just fill it up with silicon? Problem is, i dont wanna trap water.
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Old 01-06-2006, 02:21 PM
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If it were me, since you have to wet sand it anyways, start with 400 grit and work up to 1000-1500 grit then buff. It won't take any longer to buff it than to reshoot it AND by buffing you are sure to have a decent finish. What happens if you re-shoot it and have the same problem? Then you start over AGAIN. If the clear is thick enough which it sounds like it is due to the bad runs you should be able to sand everything out O.K. By the time warm weather rolls around you could have it buffed and finished. Just my opinion though.
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Old 01-06-2006, 09:57 PM
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Last edited by Bee4Me; 01-07-2006 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 01-06-2006, 10:57 PM
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Nason® SelectClear 497-00™ Multi-Panel and Overall Urethane Clearcoat
Mix 3:1

Strait off of Duponts website

Duponts site

I am not good enough to do buffing i dont think, and i like the look of orangepeeled paint then buffed paint better, ive seen em both maybe i like orange peel adds texture...

Thanks for the replies
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:29 AM
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Some days I even amaze myself.

You are correct and I appologize PUBLICLY!!

I use this clear (497) on an almost daily basis. You'd THINK I would know the number.

At least YOUR paying attention.

Again, SORRY for the post. I'll fix it now.

BTW, You could probly find a pait guy willing to make a little cash who would cut & buff it for you. O'peel,if bad,is ugly any way you look at it.
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Old 01-07-2006, 04:45 PM
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Silicone and paint?

Watch out for that one!!!!!
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Old 01-08-2006, 02:12 AM
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Hey Bee, no big deal, im just glad for any input. Yeah orangepeel does look ugly. But we use rocks here in the winter instead of salt and i dont really see a point in buffing it so it can get chipped in the winter. Plus summer weather is much nicer to do this stuff in. I can only imagine that it would be expensive to pay someone to buff the car?
Thanks,
Mark
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