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Old 08-17-2009, 11:35 AM
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Clear Coating Single Stage Paint??

Im using 2nd dimension single stage paint, and wanted to know is it worth clearing over? Some people say it gives you a better shine and protection, and some say its not worth it, just go with base coat/clear coat? Just need more opinions. Also how long do you have to wait for the paint to dry before you clear it? Some people say you don't have to even sand it before you apply the clear, just tack rag it before you apply it and shoot it, then some people say you have to wet sand it. Just trying to get some more opinions. This is the way I was going to do it. Wax & Grease Remover, tack rag, 1 coat of 2nd dimension etching primer, says you can sand that after about 30 mins of drying, sand that with 320 grit paper, wax & Grease Remover, tack rag, about 4 to 5 coats of single stage hugger orange 2nd dimension with the fish eye solution, to help prevent them, and says it helps gloss, then i was going to wait to the next day about 8 to 12 hours, tack rag it, a put about 2 to 3 coats of clear on it 2nd dimension. Thats how i was going to do it. Also do you put the fish eye solution in the clear? Let me know what your opinions are, I plan on painting it in 2 to 3 weeks. Thanks Mark.

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Old 08-17-2009, 04:48 PM
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We ended up putting clear on a '69 camaro because the owner wanted to bury the stripe edges.
The plan was to just clear the top surfaces, but found that the clear made the black look "milky", so had to clear the whole car.
We used DAU 9300 black, and gave it about 3 days, colorsanded as if to buff, then cleared it with Concept 2020 clear. looks good. and the DAU didn't bust.
Now 20 years ago we painted a '52 chevy sedan delivery, with DAU 9300,
No clear, sanded and buffed. About a month ago the owner brought it back to us, and wants us to install Heidt frontend, V-8, automatic tranny, etc. (he's tired of the 6 cyl,"3 on th' tree", and that goofy front suspension).
It's now sitting next to the Camaro, and looks very much blacker than the camaro. And still has the same shine as it did 20 years ago.

Just food for thought.
Thanx
Shorty
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:51 PM
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I panted my roll bar front and rear bumper and tire Carrier black. After i was done with the black i just cleaned my gun and shot the clear while it was still wet. basically like you were just sooting anther coat on it. no problems at a1l
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Old 08-18-2009, 05:18 PM
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I'm thinking of trying this with the paint that Summit is selling...the rreeeeeaaallllyyy cheap stuff! They say that even tho the color is actually a 1-stage paint, that clearing it will give it a better, deeper shine.

Have any of you tried this?

Dave
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nskeeter99
I panted my roll bar front and rear bumper and tire Carrier black. After i was done with the black i just cleaned my gun and shot the clear while it was still wet. basically like you were just sooting anther coat on it. no problems at a1l
nice i probably due that thanks!! another question did you used 2nd dimension paint or another brand? and did you use the fish eye solution to help prevent them? did you put it in the clear. Let me know ASAP. Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman123
I'm thinking of trying this with the paint that Summit is selling...the rreeeeeaaallllyyy cheap stuff! They say that even tho the color is actually a 1-stage paint, that clearing it will give it a better, deeper shine.

Have any of you tried this?

Dave
I haven't tried it but, I dont't see why it wouldn't work. I have seen that paint in summit to. Good Luck, if you do try it, let me know how it turns out. Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2009, 08:05 PM
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Clearing single stage enamel is what we did before base coat/clear coat systems existed. You can put the clear on right over the fresh color like another wet coat of paint if you don't have any flaws, dirt, or bugs to sand out. Otherwise let the color dry long enough to be able to wet sand it out and then shoot the clear. Common knowledge back in the 80's , especially to help metallics resist fade.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:03 PM
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I used an industrial enamel from work, but i have used some cheep stuff from ebay the same way before. my clear is just reducer and hardener. I have never used the fish I stuff before. I would think if your prep work is good you would not need the fish eye stuff. but I'm by far no expert.

Skeeter
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:44 PM
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Did you say you are going to spray one coat of etching primer and then wet sand that?

You need to spray a sandable primer over the etch, and then block sand that, Unless the primer that you are talking about is some kind of hybrid.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Clearing single stage enamel is what we did before base coat/clear coat systems existed. You can put the clear on right over the fresh color like another wet coat of paint if you don't have any flaws, dirt, or bugs to sand out. Otherwise let the color dry long enough to be able to wet sand it out and then shoot the clear. Common knowledge back in the 80's , especially to help metallics resist fade.
Great thats what i'll probably due!! Another question did you use the fish eye stuff in the paint? Do you put the fish eye stuff in the clear? Just wanted to know. Thanks Mark.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nskeeter99
I used an industrial enamel from work, but i have used some cheep stuff from ebay the same way before. my clear is just reducer and hardener. I have never used the fish I stuff before. I would think if your prep work is good you would not need the fish eye stuff. but I'm by far no expert.

Skeeter
The fish eye stuff is a great aditive, yes if the metal is prepped correctly you should be okay with out it, but im no professional either so i like to take extra caution, so thats why i use it, it's only $20 and it will do alot of paint jobs, plus it increases gloss. Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexflacco
Did you say you are going to spray one coat of etching primer and then wet sand that?

You need to spray a sandable primer over the etch, and then block sand that, Unless the primer that you are talking about is some kind of hybrid.
Nope, etching primer is a sandable primer!! The reason its called etching, is that it ecthes itself, it fills in alot, it will fill up to 60 grit sanding scatches. You dont even have to sand it, you can apply it and after 30 mins just shoot on your top or base coat, but I highly recommend that people sand it, makes it alot smoother and you'll get a better shine. Just my 2 cents, I did one truck already like that, 320 grit, 1 coat etching primer, dry sanded it with 320 grit, then 5 coats of 2nd dimension single stage paint, the guy didn't want to clear it. now im doing my truck and want to clear it for better protection and more gloss.
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Old 08-24-2009, 12:29 PM
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Single stage metalic

My brother was in charge for a while, and my step brother(both have done work on cars, my brother ten years at reincarnators). My brother said we would not need to clearcoat the car if we used a single stage paint metalic. Is this correct?I need some opinions.

Last edited by 65AmazonforDestiny; 08-24-2009 at 01:15 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-24-2009, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65AmazonforDestiny
My brother was in charge for a while, and my step brother(both have done work on cars, my brother ten years at reincarnators). My brother said we would not need to clearcoat the car if we used a single stage paint metalic. Is this correct?I need some opinions.
You don't need to clear coat single stage paint, cause the clear and the color are mixed into one, but if you want a better shine and more protection then I would recommend clearing it. Thats what i'm doing to my truck, single stage paint, but im also clearing it. So basically its up to you.
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:28 PM
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If my memory is not totally gone, single stage epoxy preceded base coat/clear coat. I had gotten away from using it after joining the BC/CC rage, but have since returned to it. I asked my RM dealer about clearing over the RM single stage and he basically said no: it's a waste of money and I agree. I remember the days of acrylic enamel and mixing clear acrylic enamel in with the color on the last couple of coats and a final coat of clear acrylic to give that deep shine look. There were some pretty good jobs that maintained the brilliance for several years with out the continuous attention you had to give many coats of "hand rubbed" lacquer that was so popular in the day.

Trees
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