Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - View Single Post - ClearCoat question
View Single Post
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 04:33 PM
tech69 tech69 is offline
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,203
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 646
Thanked 268 Times in 244 Posts
metallic blue will show scratches. If you want to dry sand maybe try what we do. We get it all with 320, then the painter goes back over it by hand with 600 da over a scuff pad. He doesn't guide coat it but I can imagine a light spray of guide coat would be ideal. When I first worked here I wasn't sold on the 320 thing but I'm a product of my surrroundings. Later I found out the process we use doesn't have issues later with scratches.


We do final round with 1-2 coats of primer. One coat gets 320 and quick rough over with 600. 2 coats get 220 then 320 then a rough over of 600. The only thing I'd change is spraying a real light and even coat of guide coat for that 600.

I've worked at two of the top restorations places in Sac County and BOTH shops do dry sanding only.

I will say...nothing makes a car more crisper then a 600, especially for metallic. But is the adhesion as good? I don't know and it's hard to put a button on why it makes it look so crisp but a 600 on a metallic goes very well with staight body work. It's like the icing on the cake. Me and a bud were comparing scratches and couldn't come up with a term or why a 600 made it pop but that's it, it makes it pop much more. I equate the popping to the same kind of pop you get when you cut your clear with a hard block. I'll just say it adorns good quality work.

Last edited by tech69; 07-07-2012 at 04:42 PM.
Reply With Quote