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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 12:25 PM
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So some of my panels are in SPI 2k (fenders, valances, tail light panel), while other panels are in Slick Sand (doors, roof, quarters, hood, trunk lid). To have a final uniform substrate I'm going to seal everything before base, but from what I'm gathering if I do a final dry block of everything with 320 that should be sufficient for seal coat epoxy?
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Old 07-07-2012, 02:40 PM
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In my opinion that depends on the color. If it's going black or silver 400-600 is the way. There's benefit to both...adhesion or guarantee that minute scratches don't show. On one hand I can see adhesion being better with 320 and on another I can see a car cut flat to where you don't want to cut it flatter later when the sun settles everything and barely visible scratches appear. If you want the best of both worlds do 320 and leave some orange peel. Then two years later when you've added some superficial scratches and swirls through some wear and tear you have more material to cut out and shine while getting the 320 scratches out. When I do my car I'll probably go 320 cause it's white and if it wasn't I'd go 400. In any case, I'm leaving some peel initially so I can play with it later. No point cutting it flat to show off now when the darn clear helps fight UV rays. I want this baby to last and in doing so that means leaving a little meat on it to play with later. just my opinion.
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Old 07-07-2012, 02:50 PM
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Are you responding to me? I'm talking about final block grit of high build primer (some of it being Slick Sand so I don't want to wet sand) before sealing with epoxy. There won't be any orange peel.

I was not planning on blocking the seal coat epoxy and shooting straight over it with bc 2 hrs later per Barry's instructions. I can get the epoxy to lay down completely smooth with no peel so it shouldn't be an issue. However, if I do end up getting peel (as luck would have it...you know, getting peel when you actually aren't trying to as opposed to the times when I didn't get peel and wasn't necessarily not trying to) then I may have to cut down some of the peel.

I'm painting mine a metallic blue (the 97 Dodge Viper blue).
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:33 PM
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metallic blue will show scratches. If you want to dry sand maybe try what we do. We get it all with 320, then the painter goes back over it by hand with 600 da over a scuff pad. He doesn't guide coat it but I can imagine a light spray of guide coat would be ideal. When I first worked here I wasn't sold on the 320 thing but I'm a product of my surrroundings. Later I found out the process we use doesn't have issues later with scratches.


We do final round with 1-2 coats of primer. One coat gets 320 and quick rough over with 600. 2 coats get 220 then 320 then a rough over of 600. The only thing I'd change is spraying a real light and even coat of guide coat for that 600.

I've worked at two of the top restorations places in Sac County and BOTH shops do dry sanding only.

I will say...nothing makes a car more crisper then a 600, especially for metallic. But is the adhesion as good? I don't know and it's hard to put a button on why it makes it look so crisp but a 600 on a metallic goes very well with staight body work. It's like the icing on the cake. Me and a bud were comparing scratches and couldn't come up with a term or why a 600 made it pop but that's it, it makes it pop much more. I equate the popping to the same kind of pop you get when you cut your clear with a hard block. I'll just say it adorns good quality work.

Last edited by tech69; 07-07-2012 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:30 AM
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It sounds like your on the right path...The problem I have is when I spray the sealer (epoxy) it NEVER lays down as niceand slick and dirt free (even in my booth) as I want so I always sand it (lightly) with 600 wet paper with very little water just enough to keep the paper from clogging but never enough to run off onto the floor or in the janbs,I feel its better to sand it anyway...if your not going to sand the sealer coat be double sure theres no trash anywhere or youll be sorry when the cut and buff time comes..theres nothing worse than when a piece of black trash raises its ugly head through your perfect paint job.
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