You've received some pretty good advice on this thread, Brian gave you an excellent tutorial on what to look for and what pitfalls to avoid, Tech 69 suggested the razor blade technique, also excellent advice, it can be a little dangerous when not used in the hands of someone that has done it before as when, Tuscon Jay mentioned, the clear has reached the proper stage of curing but, for someone who knows how, it would be the fastest and is used in many if not most body shops. JoAnn with the runner block suggestions and in all, everyone has given good advice.
roy2486 mentioned that he preferred the 3M, 3 stage polish. That's all I use is the 3M 3 stage polish, if you don't have a polisher and plan to hand polish, your best bet would be to finish your wet sanding with an extremely fine grit. I would recommend the previous grits and then step it up to 3M's tri-zac 3,000 grit pad. After using this it is quite possible to hand polish the color sanded clear when the runs are gone. In fact, there really shouldn't be a need for wax and would not recommend wax on any fresh clear.
The difference between waxing and polishing is that when you polish a top coat like clear, you are in effect taking some of that clear material off of the surface, leaving you with a high gloss. When you wax a car, your adding material to your surface and in many cases what your adding is silicone. Silicone is a product that can lead to future problems, again especially on fresh clear coat. Fresh clear coat needs to breathe...by adding a silicone wax to the top of the fresh clear your are choking off or sealing the clear, not letting any remaining solvents escape and could cause the clear to die off. Turtle wax, in many of their products, use silicone, there rubbing compounds do work but, on fresh clear you are well advised to read the label to ensure that silicone doesn't touch your fresh paint job.
The 3M 3 stage process works well, doesn't use silicone and is paint friendly, a good choice in your situation.
I hope this helps.