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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2009, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettcross
The gun that I purchased specifically for CC app is what the specs called for 1.3
That ought to work fine. Interestingly, looking at the P-sheet for KC-210 reveals that it is a 4:1 clear with 2.1lbs/gal VOC. So it gets mixed 4 parts clear to 1 part hardener. I hope that you have not been mixing in twice as much hardener as recommended, that could be the cause of your sprayability problem, and could cause other problems as well.

It is common for painters to surreptitiously add a bit of reducer to some 2.1 clears that have a higher than average spray viscosity.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/...0606KC210P.pdf

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2009, 09:09 AM
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Thanks a lot for your info. I appreciate it
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2009, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettcross
Is the use of a DA sander recomended for use on something very round like a helmet or should I do that by hand?[IMG]
I am not advocating the use of a DA sander to sand that helmet. The use of a DA with the Mirka Abralon pad wet will not harm the helmet in any way. It is next to impossible to remove any appreciable material with the 4000 grit Mirka pads.

Vince
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:22 AM
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Something that I feel should be said, if you are going to add reducer to clear the flash time between coats needs to be increased. This will help you avoid solvent popping. Have fun
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2009, 10:50 AM
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I have never reduced clear and do have a little color sanding I have to do but not a lot. I think I've missed something. What do you thin Barry's universal clear with?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2009, 10:54 AM
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Since I stepped up to a SataJet RP, my clear lays out much smoother than with the NR95. I also went to Barry at Souther Polyurethane for my clear, way better results than I ever got with Chromaclear or Nason. Gorgle search Southern Polyurethane, they are a manufacturer of high quality materials at low quality prices and they sell to the public.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2009, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
I have never reduced clear and do have a little color sanding I have to do but not a lot. I think I've missed something. What do you thin Barry's universal clear with?
Must have never used PPG DCU2002. It is mixed at 4-1-1 ratio.

Vince
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2009, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Must have never used PPG DCU2002. It is mixed at 4-1-1 ratio.

Vince
No sir, never have. I might have to try it at some point. Our PPG rep closed their doors so the closest is an hour away.
Thanks,
Chip.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2009, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
No sir, never have. I might have to try it at some point. Our PPG rep closed their doors so the closest is an hour away.
Thanks,
Chip.
You should, it's great stuff. I was told by Barry that it is pretty much the same formula as SPI's clear, I have never used it either hope to some day though.

Vince
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:22 PM
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I believe Barry at SPI says to reduce a High Solids CC defeats the purpose of using HSCC - thins the solids or something like that.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2009, 12:03 PM
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Finishing is my thing

Figure that I would throw my 2 cents in.

Clear Coat works very well when you have it tuned in and you know exactly how it will spray, lay and dry. But when you don't there are several ways to fix common problems; Runs, sangs, orange peel, overspray, dust nibs, and even scratches.

*Try to keep things as fine (abrasive grain) as possible, this will help tremendously when buffing.

*Random Orbitals (or DA's) are used for finishing and also material removal. One can buy 36 grit to 4,000 grit sand paper. When DA sanding a round part like a helmet, use an interface pad over your regular backup pad. This give you added cushion and conformability. Also turn down you random orbital sander's throttle.

*If I want my paint to lay a little better I sometimes add a little acetone to my paint mix. Carefull not to make the paint/clear coat too runny.



See advice I had posted earlier.

This might help. I have been using 3M systems for a while. The latest one I have run into was just released this summer (2008). It works great!!!

3M Perfect-it Clear Coat Repair System.

There is even a video that goes along with this system.

This system replaces the Dry Clear Coat Repair System (260L - White sandpaper) and the old Wetordry (401Q) they used to have.

This other page is a great wealth of information.

Accessories for Wets Sanding.

3M Random Orbital Sanders.
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