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Old 12-06-2009, 08:29 PM
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Cleat Coat Help

I found this forum when looking for some good info on shooting clearcoat. I have got back into custom painting (shooting for bikes and helmets) and have actually got proficient at design and base application. ) See my site I am building. http://ftintermedia.com/ca/pages/ My problem comes when clearcoating. What I am getting isn't orange peel- it is more like grapefruit peel. I am getting a phobia when it comes to clearcoating my projects.

I put a lot of hark work into a peice then clear coat. I have to put twice as much work into wet sanding and buffing the peel down. I bought a new gun/ mix the CC properly / don't shoot in excessive heat, cold or humidity and it still comes out wrong. I have watched instuctional vidz but they don't provide all the answers. Can someone here point me in the reight direction/

Thanks

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Old 12-06-2009, 09:00 PM
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There's too many factors to getting clear coat laying down perfect. Reducer/temp/distance/pressure all must be tuned in. I like adding extra reducer to lay down clear coat, comes out with minimal texture. Mostly just dirt nibs that need to be buffed out here and there
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Old 12-06-2009, 11:27 PM
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I spray out on scrap sheet metal to fine tune my gun.
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:31 AM
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Thanks

Okay- Just for my sanity, am I to understand that there is usually some type of "texture" or orage peel after clear coating and some amount of wet sanding and buffing is needed to knock it back?

Thanks for your feedback guys
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:20 AM
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No not generally. it all comes down to getting to know the clear your using, air pressure, reduction and technique. When I sprayed my 34's hood pieces I did not want to have to cut & buff the hood sides with the louvers. I over reduced the clear, jacked up the air pressure at the gun, laid the hood pieces flat and shot them. The clear came out super smooth and required zero wet sanding and no buffing. I could not do this on the entire car as I would have had many runs. I was using a cheap Harbor Freight gun, but a quality gun will make the job much easier.

Vince
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:29 AM
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Thanks

Thanks to all for your feedback.
CC just like anything else just takes practice. As I review the process in my head I think I might need to add just a bit more reducer to adapt to my environment.

Just to wrap this up though- When you wet sand after orange peel- Do you start out with a 500 grit paper then wrap up with a 2000 and finalize with compound and glaze? I just want to make the best of the helmet I just shot. I put a lot of work into it.

Thanks again
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:25 AM
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I start with 800, but it all depends on how much orange peal your trying to remove and most importantly how much clear you have on. Follow that with 1500, followed by 2500 then buff. You might also take a look at the Mirka Abralon 4000 grit pads for your DA sander. Once you have wet sanded with 800, 1500, then 2500 go over it with the Mirka pad wet and you end up with a dull gloss that requires much less buffing and polishing.


Vince
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:18 AM
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Is the use of a DA sander recomended for use on something very round like a helmet or should I do that by hand?

Attached is a pic of the helmet with masking still on. This will give you an idea of the amount of orange peel
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettcross
Is the use of a DA sander recomended for use on something very round like a helmet or should I do that by handAttached is a pic of the helmet with masking still on. This will give you an idea of the amount of orange peel
No. A DA is not for finish sanding, they're too aggresive,
A palm sander or finish sander maybe, but for something with a lot
of curves, like that helmet you're better off doing it by hand.
Yes, you can make it work, but you can also mess it up so fast
with a tool. Some 600 or 800 should level that clear pretty quick.
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:00 AM
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From the picture, it looks like your material is going on too dry. Some practice pieces in a roughly spherical shape might be in order, to practice pushing the clear much wetter and closer to the point of running. That's where you will get your gloss.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:38 PM
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I would scuff it up and shoot another coat of clear.

I would not touch it with anything coarser than 800 grit. You can ruin it in a hurry.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:42 PM
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I surely will do.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:51 PM
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I would wet sand all smooth surfaces with 800 grit to remove most of the texture.

I would stay clear of all sharp edges.

Then scuff all with scotch bright.

Clean.

Tune gun by spraying on a similar surface.

Spray another CC.
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:56 PM
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Success

Hey guys- Thanks to all of you for your input. I just found my problem.
The clear I use is Kustom Shop KC 210 A. The directions state to just mix 2:1 to hardner. It said that it doesn't need to be thinned. After going over feedback from the forum I started to think about reducer and decided to add some. I mixed up some CC at 2:1:1.

It went on like glass. Wow! Now I just have to do a minimal amount of wet sanding as opposed to what I had to do before. My clear coat phobia is no more!

So thanks again.
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:33 PM
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got to slam it on there,the clear should explode as it hits the surface..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fnd8fQ29FU

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