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closed points
Moostang, I hope you saying they've welded them selfs together. I had a 6 I chevy do it once. I was on the road, so I toke out my pocket knife ( thing guys used to carry) and a rock and cut them apart. With my fingernail clippers , I file them a little to get a good contact point, set them by eye and headed home. Where I changed them at first change.
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loosen the screw that holds the points in, open the gap up, close the gap back up on a .018 feeler gauge and tighten the screw..
if you have to remove the timing cover, don't forget the 2 bolts on the oil pan, if you need to replace the timing set, opt for an aftermarket set. comp cams makes 1 for the 200 for about $40. I bought my billet dual roller from Classic inlines but it would be overkill on your engine. |
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That .018 is with the rubbing block on the points on one of the distributor cam high points.
Chet |
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The rider block wearing down will cause the points to close up. Like has been mentioned bump the engine over and stop it with the rider block up on a cam lobe...then set the points. Now take a little dab of grease on a toothpick and put the grease on the back side of the rider block where it sits on the cam. Just a small dab on the end of a toothpick...no more than that.
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ooorrrrrr..
Or just dump the points and go with something a LOT more reliable and efficient....an electronic module that bolts right in and does a much better job than any points could ever do!
How many miles on the engine? That's a big difference on whether it's points or timing chain. One will not give you any spark (usually) at the plug, the other means things don't happen at the right time. Check for spark at the plug first as that's the easiest. Steve |
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