[michael f100]

I have a 1969 f-100, having problems with the gauges. put on 2 cluster voltage regulators, new sending units gas, water and oil. Installed a new battery, new voltage regulator. The gauges all going from left to right not showing proper readings. I have notice that the cluster regulator gets warm then the gauges stop working they go far left. Do you think the Alternator is bad or could it be in the Ignition swith or another bad cluster regulator.

[302 Z28]

Check your grounds, especially the body to battery and body to frame connections. You have a faulty ground somewhere.

Vince

[35terraplane]

Originally Posted by michael f100

I have a 1969 f-100, having problems with the gauges. put on 2 cluster voltage regulators, new sending units gas, water and oil. Installed a new battery, new voltage regulator. The gauges all going from left to right not showing proper readings. I have notice that the cluster regulator gets warm then the gauges stop working they go far left. Do you think the Alternator is bad or could it be in the Ignition swith or another bad cluster regulator.

You do know that Ford gauges are 6 volt. Ford never changed until the late 80's to 12 volt.

Bob

[michael f100]

Originally Posted by 302 Z28

Check your grounds, especially the body to battery and body to frame connections. You have a faulty ground somewhere.

Vince

Vince, thanks for the input, will definately check the grounds, thanks, Mike

[LATECH]

Originally Posted by michael f100

I have a 1969 f-100, having problems with the gauges. put on 2 cluster voltage regulators, new sending units gas, water and oil. Installed a new battery, new voltage regulator. The gauges all going from left to right not showing proper readings. I have notice that the cluster regulator gets warm then the gauges stop working they go far left. Do you think the Alternator is bad or could it be in the Ignition swith or another bad cluster regulator.

The cluster regulator is just that , a regulator. It basically is a circuit breaker that turns on and off, and by doing this lowers the effective voltage for the gauges to run.It will get warm as it has a resistance wire wrapped around a bi mettalic leaf switch inside that opens and closes the switch part as it heats up. If its warm its working but problem is most likeley after all the open close cycles it has done in the 40 plus years of its existance it probably is slow to close . Replace it, and you will be fine. I think you can get one from LMC truck. You should get there catalog. it has most everything you could want.you do want to verify grounds, but I doubt that is the trouble you are having.
Check it with a test light. You will see it flash real slow. If it stops flashing after it gets warmer then the bi metalic leaf is weak and needs to be replaced.
And by the way the little metal tab that sticks out is a tension adjustment that is factory preset,it turns with needlenose pliers.It changes the preload on the leaf a little with can increase the on off time a little for fine tweaking of the gauges. You shouldnt need to do so, but thought I would mention it just in case.

[302 Z28]

Uh read the OP, he did replace the regulator.

Vince

[LATECH]

Originally Posted by 302 Z28

Uh read the OP, he did replace the regulator.

Vince

Yeah, I saw that. Was it NEW , ? Was it used ? was it a crap o brand. Question everything is where I am coming from. I have learned to question everything, believe close to nothing.
Chances are they arent NEW, and probably arent much good. Cant hurt to understand how they work so as to test it, just in case they are failing. I agree there may be something else as a root cause. just trying to help the man cover his bases.

[LATECH]

Originally Posted by michael f100

Do you think the Alternator is bad or could it be in the Ignition swith or another bad cluster regulator.

*********************

[michael f100]

Originally Posted by latech

The cluster regulator is just that , a regulator. It basically is a circuit breaker that turns on and off, and by doing this lowers the effective voltage for the gauges to run.It will get warm as it has a resistance wire wrapped around a bi mettalic leaf switch inside that opens and closes the switch part as it heats up. If its warm its working but problem is most likeley after all the open close cycles it has done in the 40 plus years of its existance it probably is slow to close . Replace it, and you will be fine. I think you can get one from LMC truck. You should get there catalog. it has most everything you could want.you do want to verify grounds, but I doubt that is the trouble you are having.
Check it with a test light. You will see it flash real slow. If it stops flashing after it gets warmer then the bi metalic leaf is weak and needs to be replaced.
And by the way the little metal tab that sticks out is a tension adjustment that is factory preset,it turns with needlenose pliers.It changes the preload on the leaf a little with can increase the on off time a little for fine tweaking of the gauges. You shouldnt need to do so, but thought I would mention it just in case.

Thanks for the info.