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It's your money, you can spend it as you wish. It does not mater if you are racing the car. A lite weight flywheel will help your engine rev quicker. A 2piece seal engine is balanced different than a 1 piece seal engine. You can't interchange the flywheels between a 1 piece and 2 piece seal engine, it will throw the balance off. All those parts can be found easy without going aftermarket. GM had to put a warranty on the parts when the car was new. What kind of warranty do those aftermarket parts carry?
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A 1 piece seal engine and a 2 piece seal engine will have different block numbers. Once you have the block number you can look up the info without tearing it all down to find out what you have.
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If it were mine, I would use GM parts since they made a zillion of them. As far as clutches a lot of the parts are just reboxed. I have bought new clutch disc off Ebay for as cheap as $10 and it was a Luk. I have had a lot of different brands and when you compare most of them they are the same.
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You don't have to worry about weight, so you really don't need to spend the extra for a lightweight flywheel. I'd get a regular steel flywheel, and get a 10.5" also. I'm pretty sure you can use the same starter, but you can easily count the teeth on your flexplate and compare to the 10.5" flywheel to be certain. Most 10.5" flywheels will be 168 tooth, but you can buy them for 153 tooth, so be sure it's a 168 to match your present starter.
Your car probably wont weigh over 2500 lbs max, so I'd go the 10.5" Hays. I'd also go with a regular organic/carbon or iron/organic clutch material. The iron/organic is a bit better, but a bit more money also. For your setup, I'd go diaphram type pressure plate and not 3 finger, as they are a bit smoother, and less grabby. Ram makes a good unit also, and is a little cheaper priced than a Hays. I think your Muncie will take a 26 spline clutch disc, so make sure you get the correct spline count. Be certain to tell the seller it's for a SBC from 1980, so you get the right pressure plate. |
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it the engine is stock and the valvecovers are the center bolt type
it's a 1 piece rear seal.. depending who you talk to, they changed in 86-87 in a light car, with traction issues a 10.5" will be fine, if you do clutch dumps, I'd get a scatter sheild over a bellhousing.. under the car with the inspection cover off the trans(if it's even there) you'll be able to see if the engine is 1 piece rear main seal.. with a flashlight.. you see alum bewteen flexplate and engine it's 1 piece |
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If it were me; and you feel this apprehensive, Id call up Pace Performance directly. They're a GM dealership I believe as well as selling Hi Perf parts. They sell complete kits. It may not be the cheapest way around the barn, but it'll all work together, assuming you give them the right tooth count/ starter and 1 or 2 piece R.M.S Dont use the online helper thing...its useless, CALL them. Boom. done. If you have an issue, they'll answer the phone, and they have a return policy. Problem solved. Get it runnin!
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Quote:
http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=3044 |
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OK guys,,,,here's what I got...removed 700R4 today, attached are pics of crankshaft and flexplate....this should help you all determining what to buy for a clutch and flywheel.....I believe it is 1 piece seal so that should help!
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The Ram clutch kits seem to be very reasonably priced. Everybody carries them, but I haven't used one yet. I think I'd give it a shot also, if I was going to a stick.
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