Which clutch?
 

Transmission picked out, bellhousing picked out, going with hydraulic clutch.
Which clutch to buy?
Size?
Brand?
Style?
Guess I need a flywheel also....
Chevy late '80's 350 4-bolt with a cam, heads, intake and carb, approx. 390-400 HP...
Not racing, occasional hole-shot to wake up the goose-bumps...
Thanks in advance!

McLeod dual friction; diaphragm style p-plate if possible.

Or get an organic Luk Rep-Set (Pronounced Luke apparently) from your local auto parts store. They make a very good clutch and its more than adequate for what you will do; just without the spendy name on the box. My guess is that most street clutches are a repainted and reboxed OEM clutch like a Luk.

ZOOM clutch sets any good?

What about diameter size?

Zoom is an OLD name that disappeared it seems for awhile and popped back up; this makes me nervous when new companies bank on nostalgia to sell a product. Thats my personal opinion and no one elses.

My Dad has a Zoom lightweight flywheel from about 1968 or so....it was finely crafted back then.

Ive only used McLeod, Hays and Centerforce. I had a litany of probs with the C'Force and the Hays was an OEM replacement I think in a ford ranger. It worked fine. So if it was me I'd pick McLeod.

Flywheel is going to depend on your bellhousing to a great degree. I wouldn't use an OEM flywheel. I'd prefer something steel and perhaps SFI

So, is it the size of the bellhousing that determines size of clutch and flywheel?

I'd want to know more about your car before choosing a clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. Brand wouldn't change, as all the name brands build similar sizes, and pressures, but without knowing your rear gear, transmission, and weight of the car, it's hard for me to guess what would be best.
Most people don't need a 11" flywheel and pressure plate, but it wont hurt. Some combinations require a 11" with higher pressure plate rating to get it to hook up and not burn up a clutch.

As indicated previously, I am not racing it. Just for fun maybe a burnout here and there. 350 motor with cam, dart heads, air gap, and 750 CFM's. tranny will be Muncie M20, rearend is Ford 9 inch with 373 gears.

weight of the car?

No clue...Model A's dont weigh much though.....

If you have a late 80s block it might be a 1 piece seal block. The way to go with that would be the lite weight flywheel made by GM. Your engine will rev quicker and the flywheel is already balanced for either a 305 or 350 1 piece seal engine. They use a 10.5 inch clutch. If you have a bellhousing for the big flywheel, you can still use the smaller flywheel, the difference will be the starter. Most of the mini starters are made for either size fllywheel, they just use different mounting holes on the block.

So let me see if I got this right....
Buy a 10 1/2 inch clutch?
Buy a stock GM flywheel for 1 piece seal block?
I dont have a bellhousing yet, but was considering the Mcleod 8633...
The starter I have now which fits in the current 700R4 will not fit the above items?

First you need to find out if your block is a 1 piece seal. You can look the block number up to find out. They make a big flywheel and small flywheel for both the 1 piece seal and 2 piece seal engines. They also make a small flexplate for automatic transmissions. If you already have the small flexplate than you can use the same starter you have now on the small flywheel. You can throw a lot of aftermarket parts on there but do you really need them? Steel scatershields, big flywheels and clutchs will just add weight to your car.

I could show you the differences, I'm blocked from posting pictures. I have all the different parts.

Why would I worry about adding weight, when I'm not racing this car?
I guess when I get this 700R4 off, it should tell me which flexplate and starter I have?
Do I need to pull the oil pan to see if I have 1 or 2 piece seal?
I'm pretty sure I have the 1 piece from another thread I started, and found it to be a truck block....