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Old 09-05-2010, 06:39 AM
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Clutch Disc Material and Pressure Plate Type

I have clutch chatter when taking off in 1st gear. It goes away once everyting is fully warmed up. Somtimes, there's still a bit there, but usually it goes away.

Slave cylinder is mounted on the engine block and all engine mounts look good. Transmission mount is difficult to inspect, but I don't feel the shifter vibrate, so I think it's OK.

A little over 500 miles ago, I had the engine out and did a clutch inspection. Other than the disc being a brown colour, the flywheel and pressure plate looked fine. I should have put in a new disc, but didn't. Stupid me....

There's a little over 5000 miles on this clutch system, and I think it always did chatter a bit, but has become worse with time.

I suspect oil contamination of the disc (especially as it is brown in colour), and there is oil under the car. The oil turned out to be from a leaky oil pan drain plug, which I fixed. I pulled an inspection plug out of the lower part of the bellhousing front plate, and the back of it was dry. The flywheel behind was also dry.

So I can throw new parts at it, but am wondering if I use the same part numbers, if I'm really going to fix the problem. I used McLeod parts due to recommendations on my engine and transmission (Ford 428 and Richmond Gear 5-speed).

Here's a pic of the clutch disc type (from the Mcleod website) and below is the type of Pressure Plate (also from the Mcleod website). Note the heavy re-ionforcement webbing in the clutch material. I am wondering if this combination is just prone to cause clutch chatter? Maybe I should change to something else once I have everything apart? Any ideas?




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Old 09-05-2010, 07:51 AM
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There are so many causes of clutch chatter I don't have time to list them all.
Your best bet is google "causes of clutch chatter" and read them all for yourself. This might help you more as you know best about exactly what's happening wirth how your clutch is acting. Hope this help you.
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:59 AM
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Yes, I've been researching and have ruled out almost everything except disc contamination. I also havn't tried bleeding the slave cylinder yet, but I have my doubts air in the line is the problem.

I just posted to see if the type of clutch disc and pressure plate I'm using are normally a good street system, or are prone to chatter.... before I replace any thing.
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:37 AM
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Hi Argess. Could you post a pic of the parts in question (or are they still in the car?
I would have to say that a hard spot or HOT SPOT on the flywheel is to blame. You know a blue spot that is caused by a harder spot in the metal of the flywheel . Without being able to look at the cover assembly fingers to inspect height eveness and the friction mating surfaces it is a guess. My money would be a hard spot in the flywheel.
Looks like you have good "crush" on the clutch disc which makes a nice streetable clutch as it gives a smoother engagement from a stop.But this could also be where the problem lies.The story will unfold when you look at the way the hot spots develop on the cover assembly and the flywheel

Last edited by latech; 09-05-2010 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:32 AM
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Thank-you for the reply. I don't have it apart yet for pics. When I had it apart 500 miles back, the flywheel and PP were perfect....maybe too perfect as they were very smooth/shiny. But no blue spots, cracks, chips, scores, etc. Only thing that looked odd was colour of disc.

I'll no doubt post pics when everything is apart, but that may not be for a few months yet as I'm trying to get a little more use before the end of the season.

Right now, I'm trying to gather as much info as I can so I can make a better decision. Plus, I was going to order a clutch disc now...to avoid waiting later. Might not be much point anyway if the PP comes out with a problem and I wind up ordering one of those as well.

Just one of those jobs I'm not looking forward to. I may have to remove the engine, which is a pain with the sidepipes, low garage ceiling, etc,

Ain't the internet a wonderful place to admit mistakes? Well, here's one. In order to remove the bellhousing (scattershield), I need to remove the transmission, BUT, when I put the two together, it was a tight fit due to paint on the scattershield, so I drew the two together with the 4 mounting bolts. Wasn't hard to do....wasn't that tight a draw to pull them together, but I bet it will be one giant pain to get them apart, and the tranny and scattershield won't come out as one unit, unless I take the engine out first.

Sometimes, I make so much work for myself.......
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:48 AM
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How about getting a guy with a shop to let you use his lift on a saturday and just pay him rent on the lift for the day? It would be so much faster to change.It would be a little less tedious too.
At this point I would suspect the disc as well. The wavy metal inbetween the friction material ( creates crush) may not be as stiff in one spot as the other forcing an uneven grab . that would not leave a distinquishable mark as it moves. Where as a hot spot made by a flywheel or a cover assembly would be noticable in one place as they dont move in relation to one another.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:33 PM
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one of the most important components is the pressure plate. When you step on your clutch pedal, the pressure plate pushes the clutch disc against the spinning engine flywheel. The friction between the flywheel and the clutch disc enables the delivery of the engine torque that moves your auto wheels. Clearly, the pressure plate has a crucial role that simply can't be ignored. So, you need to get an excellent replacement once it goes down. When it comes to that, an [URL=**************************************[/URL] is your best bet.

Last edited by Crosley; 09-27-2010 at 08:12 PM. Reason: Violation of guidelines. Please see: general board guidelines.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:59 PM
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Im running the same setup on my car but i have a manual clutch.

i had a vibration problem and all i did was resurface my flywheel with a surfacing grinder. mabye try that?
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:22 PM
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X2 on resurface the flywheel / have it turned. Common problem when the flywheel get's hot spots anytime when doing a clutch change you should have the flywheel turned /resurfaced. alot of clutch company's if not all recomend resurface or it will void any warranty.


Cole
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:50 AM
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[QUOTE=kidashley25] When you step on your clutch pedal, the pressure plate pushes the clutch disc against the spinning engine flywheel. QUOTE]

I think you got that backwards. But we know what you mean. Just wanted to clear that up.
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:33 AM
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just a FYI on member : kidashley25

The listed location in Los Angeles is bogus and he is a spammer from the Philippines.

His posts do not seem to make sense on subjects because he is a spammer posting URL advertisements
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:18 AM
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Still havn't taken the clutch apart yet, but I noticed something sort of interesting......the Mcleod Pressure Plate and Flywheel do not use locating dowels. Not that this might be causing my clutch chatter, but if it were me designing these parts, I would have used locating dowels, especially as these parts are often used in high revving performance engines.

Another odd thing are the pressure plate bolts. The flywheel threaded holes are counterbored a bit. It would make sense to me that bolts with fairly long shanks should be used. I never did find any and wound up using Mr. Gasket PP bolts. And wouldn't you know it, where the shank ended and the bolt threads start matches up with the PP/flywheel parting line. Might be better if the shank extended into the counterbore a bit.
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