[BadA$$37]

I am wondering if anyone knows of a universal clutch master that will work with a T56 6 speed. I need something that has a reservoir built into the master, not remote like a stock application. This is my first manual set up and I am not familiar, and need a little guidance as far as size, bore etc. I have the stock slave cylinder and it seems to have a special GM fitting that Im not familiar with either, that may also need to be changed out. Any help would be great.

[Bryan59EC]

I hate those fittings.
I have a 87 Chev pu Bellhousing and slave, used a 88 Chev master, in the 59 Elky.
I also used the hydraulic line for the 87 pickup. Pricey line--GM knows you need it--I don't think NAPA caries it anymore, they used to.

I think the master is with the res.----I changed mine to remote--Booster clearance issues-----had to go hyd.--no room for mech. clutch--454HO

Bryan

Oh---did have to reshape the line---you won't find those fittings anywhere.
I think that they are a French size 11---(had a hydraulic hose guy look it up for me)

[Bob Pfeiffer]

For the T56/327 in my 68 Camaro I'm using a trailer disc brake m/cyl which cost $28 here in Australia (compared to $170 at the dealer), it has no residual pressure valve, is identical to factory clutch m/cyl 3/4" bore size and has a longer stroke at 1-1/2". It is compact size, cast in one with reservoir and has a flat (ie 90degrees to bore centre line) 2-hole mounting flange, which overcame the need for a special angled mounting bracket on firewall. I haven't got it working yet, but am confident it will do the job. I'll set it up on bench to check out operation with CSC and clutch before installing all in car.
My trans is from a late GTO (Holden Monaro/Commodore here), I made my own billet adaptor and selector lever to move the shifter forward 8" (the GTO shifter overhangs the back of the T56 gearbox), it now exits in centre of original console, with hurst auto stick adapted, 1-2 shift throw is 5". All for less than the price here of a short throw shifter which still didn't move the shifter forward enough and without need or expense for new extension housing, selector rail, etc. Can't wait to start rowing that "left hand" shifter.
Hope the M/cyl tip helps, be sure to verify the bore/stroke. Regards Bob

[Bob Pfeiffer]

Hey BADA$$37, regarding my info on trailer type m/cyl, they commonly have 3/8" 24 TPI female thread to take standard 3/16" tube nut fitting with a cone flare to take flared end on tube (some may not have the cone which would require a ball flare on the tube). More importantly, the m/cyl I describe fits my application because I'm converting the Camaro to RHD (fits between brake booster and offside rocker cover), I've extended the pivot and moved the brake pedal/booster hard over to the right (offside) of the firewall with the booster in a 2" recessed panel, it may not fit in a stock flat firewall LHD car with a booster. Of course if yours is a 37 it could still work, especially if mounting under floor. Also, for extreme performance (eg drag) applications, a m/cyl that takes 1/4" tubing will reduce line restriction (ie fluid returns to m/cyl faster) and will allow faster clutch engagement after each shift.
One other tip is that I've extended the stock T56 CSC bleeder by overdrilling & tapping it then screwing/welding in a stock bleed nipple that then protrudes slightly from the bellhousing. A piece of rubber or plastic tube will now fit to bleed the concentric slave cylinder (CSC) without the gripe of fluid running down the hex end on the stock bleeder and then inside the bell housing. Cheers, Bob